Lower insulation on the Escape 21' - Page 5 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 01-12-2018, 01:58 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanEdie View Post
Thanks for the photo Ron. By any chance, did you notice whether the split is always installed in the down direction to ensure no pooling of water in the tube? Ensuring this orientation might be a way of dealing with the potential corrosion problem inside this loom.
I'd say "random" location for the split.

I ended up redoing the connections by soldering and heat shrink. Another item I didn't like was that each individual brake ground was sheet metal screwed the frame. Each attachment point is a possible source of corrosion resulting eventually in a non-functioning brake. I ran a common buss wire from each attachment forward to a new attachment point for all negatives. The original connection is still there but if it fails the buss wire will keep the brakes working. All connections are heavily coated with liquid electrical tape.

I guess you say if all those connections are covered in foam that they're less likely to corrode. Maybe, but if they do require repair digging through the foam to find them wouldn't be fun. I guess there's no way of knowing until or, if, one of the early ones has a problem.

Ron
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Old 01-13-2018, 12:49 PM   #42
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Thanks for the information on the wiring Ron, I will be doing exactly what you did. I also noted the ground connection, and was less than impressed. It seems to me that something as important as trailer brakes deserves a heck of a lot more care than ETI is putting into that wiring.

I am gradually coming to the conclusion that I will not do the spray on insulation. There is too much possibility of mischief going on out of sight underneath it. In the absence of the foam, the possible corrosion under the loom can be monitored by opening the loom to see what if anything is going on, and doing something about it early if necessary. I also would not want any of the foam on the steel frame, which I will treat with heavy Rust Check.

I have some 1/2" polyethylene foam purchased some time ago for insulating the ceiling in our boat, so I will just insulate the appropriate floor sections with that. I will need to figure out attachments, but that is doable one way or another.
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Old 01-13-2018, 02:17 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by AllanEdie View Post
Thanks for the information on the wiring Ron, I will be doing exactly what you did. I also noted the ground connection, and was less than impressed. It seems to me that something as important as trailer brakes deserves a heck of a lot more care than ETI is putting into that wiring.


I have some 1/2" polyethylene foam purchased some time ago for insulating the ceiling in our boat, so I will just insulate the appropriate floor sections with that. I will need to figure out attachments, but that is doable one way or another.
I ran all grounds to a s/s stud tapped into the frame. It is heavily coated with liquid electrical tape. To the upper left you can see the hole where on the grounds had been attached. Corrosion is already starting.

I used 1 1/2" foam underneath. It does make a warmer floor.

Ron
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Old 01-13-2018, 03:47 PM   #44
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Excellent suggestions Ron, you and I are definitely on the same page here.

Like your table support by the way - still scratching the noggin on that one.

Cheers,

Allan
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Old 01-13-2018, 03:59 PM   #45
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I suspect you would have less corrosion if you used a steel bolt rather than stainless. Galvanic corrosion is a possibility when steel & stainless are connected together. More than you really want to know about stainless corrosion PDF
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Old 01-13-2018, 04:05 PM   #46
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Thanks Jon.

I'm not too worried. First the whole connection is liberally coated with liquid electrical tape and secondly, the stud is a terminal post. Connecting all the negative terminals, copper to copper together, effectively removes using the frame from use. It's still there but the path through the cables is less resistance.

Ron
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Old 01-13-2018, 04:08 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by AllanEdie View Post
I have some 1/2" polyethylene foam purchased some time ago for insulating the ceiling in our boat, so I will just insulate the appropriate floor sections with that. I will need to figure out attachments, but that is doable one way or another.
Allan: I dont know what foam you have but I highly recommend the 2 Foamular closed cell rigid foam board. The stuff is impervious to the elements and has an R-10 insulating value. Did the underside of a Scamp with it with great success. We adhered it with Liquid Nails that is compatible with polystyrene. Will eventually get to the Escape, but it is not as necessary because the Escape floor stays warmer with the full fiberglass shell.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Cor...-45W/100320352
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Old 01-13-2018, 05:17 PM   #48
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Yes, that's what I used and then painted it with a latex paint.

I'm kind of a belt and braces guy so I didn't trust that adhesive alone would be enough. I thought that perhaps if one area wasn't adhered well that, over time, with a little water ingress, the joint could fail. That's why I have two aluminum angles under the foam. Cheap insurance.

Ron
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Old 01-13-2018, 06:26 PM   #49
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Thanks Ron and Rubicon for the great information. The rigid foam might do the job better because the polyethylene stuff I have is not rigid, and would be more of a pain to keep against the trailer bottom. I needed the 1/2" thickness and flex for the boat, but both would be a disadvantage in the trailer installation.

At any rate, I think I will install my own insulation, and apply the savings to the solar system upgrades I will be including.

This forum has been a really helpful and friendly source of great information. Not picking up the trailer for a while actually has at least one advantage - the time to pick brains on this forum before committing to the build details.
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Old 01-16-2018, 09:09 AM   #50
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Thanks for all this info folks! Have been debating whether or not to get the foam on the 19 I have on order. Would like insulation to reduce condensation issues inside but now thinking I will need to inspect underside to see and correct as needed electrical stuff, etc. Ron's brake connection is, indeed, scary. I wouldn't use those crummy crimp connectors under any vehicle. Will likely add rigid foam sometime down the road. Thanks again!

Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanEdie View Post
Thanks for the information on the wiring Ron, I will be doing exactly what you did. I also noted the ground connection, and was less than impressed. It seems to me that something as important as trailer brakes deserves a heck of a lot more care than ETI is putting into that wiring.

I am gradually coming to the conclusion that I will not do the spray on insulation. There is too much possibility of mischief going on out of sight underneath it. In the absence of the foam, the possible corrosion under the loom can be monitored by opening the loom to see what if anything is going on, and doing something about it early if necessary. I also would not want any of the foam on the steel frame, which I will treat with heavy Rust Check.

I have some 1/2" polyethylene foam purchased some time ago for insulating the ceiling in our boat, so I will just insulate the appropriate floor sections with that. I will need to figure out attachments, but that is doable one way or another.
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