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Old 11-06-2015, 10:59 AM   #21
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Our 2013 escape 19 has a light coat of paint on bare steel. Plenty of paint runs on the frame. We have rarely towed on gravel roads and are frequently dealing with rust. Yes, I am Sure it is just another maintenance issue!
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Old 11-06-2015, 12:23 PM   #22
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. Yes, I am Sure it is just another maintenance issue!
Unless they have gone to powder coated frames it is a maintenance issue. If a powder coated frame was an option I'd have gladly paid extra for it because I've seen how durable it is. It's quite a contrast on a year old trailer that looks pristine "above" and awful below. Oh well, if I don't do any more mods underneath I won't see it.

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Old 11-06-2015, 12:41 PM   #23
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There must be different grades of powder coat. I've had 'powder coated' lawn furniture that is long, long gone.
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Old 11-06-2015, 01:13 PM   #24
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Our 17A was mfd. in August/September, 2015. It is Not powdered coated.
The frame was spray-painted black, and around the framing at the rear I've cleaned and repainted a few small areas with rust starting.

Powder-coating is a very effective barrier. It's usually a durable polyester coating, but is only a good as the preparation of the under-lying metal surfaces.
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Old 11-06-2015, 01:17 PM   #25
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I've got a Hidden Hitch on my RAV4. It was coated with a plastic material. Looked great when new, but the rust traveled under this 'paint' and chunks of it could be peeled away.
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Old 11-06-2015, 01:19 PM   #26
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I've never powder coated anything so I don't know about different grades of it. But there's very likely various grades in the amount of material applied and I'd think that typical lawn furniture would be at the low end of the spectrum.

If I'm welding something that's been painted very often the paint's so thin that a simple wipe with sandpaper is enough to get to bare metal. If it's powder coated, out comes the grinder.

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Old 11-06-2015, 03:55 PM   #27
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Another reason to get the foam package, it covers just bout 90% of the exposed frame.
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Old 11-06-2015, 04:03 PM   #28
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Another reason to get the foam package, it covers just bout 90% of the exposed frame.
Jim - the only concern I would have would be if the foam got damaged and allowed water to get in from road spray ,especially salty stuff, and then get trapped against the frame. When I used to do body work (on the rusty hulks that were all I could afford in my youth), I'd often find the worst rust in places where mud or some such had plugged up drain holes and kept water in. Sometimes I'd start working on a rocker panel and as I cut thru rust spots water would drain out of them.

Click and Clack (I loved those guys humor) used to highly recommend against a dealer applied "rust proofing" or undercoating as it often would plug up drain holes and start rusting from the inside

It could be nothing - just a thought I had.
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Old 11-06-2015, 04:18 PM   #29
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I believe Reace has drain holes in the frames in addition to the fiberglass.....but some members have stated they are sealed, like vacuum when being welded?? I do not not know, but I drilled a couple in my rear bumper just in case, not a drop.
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Old 11-06-2015, 04:19 PM   #30
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There is a negative/positive ionization system available for metal frames, but like others have said, our use of the trailer will have long diminished to where the frame becomes corroded.
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Old 11-06-2015, 04:29 PM   #31
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Another reason to get the foam package, it covers just bout 90% of the exposed frame.
Isn't the foam just on the inside of the frame, not the bottom or outside? I have actually never seen it before, except in a couple shared photos.
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Old 11-06-2015, 04:44 PM   #32
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The foam totally encapsulates the bottom of the trailer from side to side front to rear, all the frame is covered above the axles.
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Old 11-06-2015, 05:05 PM   #33
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The foam totally encapsulates the bottom of the trailer from side to side front to rear, all the frame is covered above the axles.
So, it must go to the fibreglass wells then, For some reason I was thinking it was just between the frame. Ya learn sumpin' new every day.
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Old 11-06-2015, 06:01 PM   #34
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When I used to do body work (on the rusty hulks that were all I could afford in my youth), .
Me too, probably a lot of us started out with 100 buck beaters. But how times change, look at what the Sweet 16's are driving to school, no beaters for them. Bimmers, Range Rovers and Audi's. Of course I guess if they're last years models they'd feel hard done by.

Hard to tell, long term, if the foam detaches enough to allow water in. Certainly water between drop in bed liners made for a few rusty p/u boxes. I had the same concern about spray on bed liners. But I'm had them in two trucks for years without any indication of problems.

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Old 11-06-2015, 07:07 PM   #35
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The foam totally encapsulates the bottom of the trailer from side to side front to rear, all the frame is covered above the axles.
My 5.0TA is more like Jim B mentions, the foam is between the frame members. I can see the outer side and bottom of the frame. The foam is about an inch up from the bottom of the frame.
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Old 11-07-2015, 11:23 AM   #36
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I was referring to the Line-X suggestion.
Ah, not the galvanizing - the order of posts without proper threading causes confusion sometimes. I agree - Line-X seems expensive for what it does. When I've seen it (or a similar product) used anywhere other than inside a pickup truck box it seems to be peeling at the corners, anyway.
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Old 11-07-2015, 11:36 AM   #37
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Powder-coating is a very effective barrier. It's usually a durable polyester coating, but is only a good as the preparation of the under-lying metal surfaces.
Yes - preparation and coating thickness are important and they vary.

Quote:
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I've got a Hidden Hitch on my RAV4. It was coated with a plastic material. Looked great when new, but the rust traveled under this 'paint' and chunks of it could be peeled away.
Same thing on my Toyota OEM (built by Cequent) hitch receiver: chips started by gravel lead to peeling. The same thing would happen on parts of a trailer frame, but I think most of the frame would be well-protected by powder coat or another tough coating.

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Click and Clack (I loved those guys humor) used to highly recommend against a dealer applied "rust proofing" or undercoating as it often would plug up drain holes and start rusting from the inside.
I agree. We have a Honda with rear quarters essentially destroyed by the first owner who had sticky crap sprayed all over the bottom... which also makes it miserable to work on some parts, such as the fuel filter which was entirely coated.
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