Paint for Rust

[padlin]

Looking for a good paint I can use on the trailers step and trailer side of the bumper, both seem to catch a lot of road stones chipping the heck out of the paint and rusting. Repainted both with Rustoleum last winter and they are in need of it again. Anyone know of anything better then Rustoleum?

[thoer]

Bob - I have better luck with keeping rust away (at least for a while) if I use some of the special rust converting stuff like this:Permatex followed by a few top coats of paint.

[padlin]

Thanks Eric, I see POR-15 has a "starter kit" which may be enough for this job. Anyone tried POR-15?

[thoer]

Originally Posted by padlin

Thanks Eric, I see POR-15 has a "starter kit" which may be enough for this job. Anyone tried POR-15?

Haven't tried that one but had an autobody place use a version on this Rust Bullet and the rusty frame of an older Tacoma and it worked very well. Very expensive though. The autobody place was impressed with how well it lasted.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by padlin

Thanks Eric, I see POR-15 has a "starter kit" which may be enough for this job. Anyone tried POR-15?

Yes, it's very popular among the car building crowd. Especially for space frames made from thin wall tube. A little rust on those can write-off the frame.

Ron

[Mel0422]

Rust Bullet or KBS work great I have used both on old sports cars.

Dave

[oilhead]

I have used Por-15 on the pan of my 73 beetle three years ago it seems to have held up well - I live on a cinder road so the pan has seen some abuse by the cinders. Dan

[grump]

I like to use Chassis Black. Knock the rust off with a steel brush and brush it on. It is pricey but works great, it does have to be top coated. It doesn't have much UV protection

[nathanj04011]

I wish having them spraying Line X on the frame prior to assembly was an option. For those of us in the northeast where they use chemicals on the road in the winter, it would be a great protectant.

[gbaglo]

Rough guess puts that at a $2,000 option.

[Donna D.]

POR-15, POR-15... rah, rah, rah!


ONE and done!

[Slickheadhunter]

I have my truck sprayed with this stuff called fluid film, works great, no rust! So I did my 17A with it as well, the entire frame and bumper.

After spraying it collects with dust and remains on the metal, when it gets hot out it migrates everywhere.

[StarvingHyena]

I'd like to see an option to have entire frame hot dipped galvanized. Lots of money yes ... but worth it me thinks.

[gbaglo]

You'd really have to love metal to spend that kind of money to preserve a frame. Would it not be cheaper to replace?
And, you'd really have to love that specific trailer. Quite a few members are not just replacing the frame, but the whole dang trailer.

[AKCamper]

We have a lot of rust to deal with in southeast Alaska. I like to use Ospho. Ospho is a highly concentrated Phosphoric acid (wear gloves and a face shield). After knocking off the loose rust you can brush it on (preferred method) or spray out of a Windex spray bottle (stay upwind). It is the active ingredient in a lot of rust converters. It turns rust from iron oxide into iron phosphate which is black. After 24 hours (in a dry environment) it can be painted. It really is the best way to treat rust other than sandblasting.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by StarvingHyena

I'd like to see an option to have entire frame hot dipped galvanized. Lots of money yes ... but worth it me thinks.

Originally Posted by gbaglo

You'd really have to love metal to spend that kind of money to preserve a frame. Would it not be cheaper to replace?

Galvanized trailer frames are not unusual, so they can't be that expensive. While galvanized frames are most commonly found carrying boats, many U-Haul trailer frames are galvanized, as are the frames (from a boat trailer builder) used under the Lil Snoozy (moulded fiberglass travel trailer).

[gbaglo]

I was referring to the Line-X suggestion.
Keep seeing these suggestions that ETI do this or that as standard. Every one of them would add to the price, and often the weight of the trailer.
I'm happy with my 2008 17B. Every couple years, I can touch up some rust spots with a small can of Tremclad, and have enough left over for years to come. I use a disposable brush. Could buy a single camel hair brush for $14.95, but I get about 100 Lee Valley Tools brushes for the same price, or less.

[Bobbito]

When I bought my first trailer., a Nash, a friend with trailer experience told me it was important to paint the trailer's frame with Tremclad as soon as I got it. I did so and repeated this every few years. On touring the ETI factory, one of the many things that impressed me were trailer frames newly painted and drying in the yard. I believe the frames come powder coated, but are then painted with a rust paint. It saved me getting under the trailer for a long, messy day of painting.

Bob K

[gbaglo]

Over on FGRV there are people replacing frames on 40 year old Bolers that have been neglected.
I don't expect I will ever have to replace the frame on my Escape, nor do I expect to be camping in it 40 years from now. But, whoever has it could slap on some Tremclad.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Bobbito

I believe the frames come powder coated, but are then painted with a rust paint.
Bob K

Maybe that's something new. The paint on mine certainly hasn't behaved like the frame was powder coated. More like a light spray coat over bare steel. Maybe someone can confirm if they're now powder coated.

Ron