re-torque of trailer wheels/what's the ft.lbs. - Page 6 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 04-04-2015, 08:36 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
It looks to me that once the initial re tightening is done and things are well seated that the need to re-check them goes down.
I believe that's the key: the nuts only need to be tightened after initial installation because they are not yet properly seated. Most light trailer hubs with studs - including all Escapes - are bolt-centric, meaning that nothing is locating the wheel properly centred on the hub other than the tapered nuts and seats. If the wheel is not perfectly centred and so the nuts are not fully seated, the nuts seem tight until the wheel shifts under load and the nuts get looser. Once the nuts are fully seated, with the wheel properly centred, re-torqing is rarely necessary.

Wheels on cars - even alloys - have little need for re-torqing; they all essentially all hub-centric.
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Old 04-04-2015, 08:44 PM   #52
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Hi Ron- maybe you're right about frequency declining over time. Or maybe not. Why risk it? Also, steel wheels(especially when new) need checking more frequently until the paint is ground out.

It seems the worst thing one can do is over-tighten past the stud's yield point. Am going to use 95 as my upper limit to account for incorrect calibration and check regularly.

Like the Ole' aircraft mechanic's quote:"when using a torque wrench, do NOT just yank on it until it clicks or otherwise indicates the correct torque. Doing so will NOT result in accuracy.
Also, if you have one of the micrometer adjustable types, ALWAYS return it to the lowest torque setting after use. However, do not go below the lowest setting.
As stated, this is a precision instrument. Treat it kindly. Misuse and abuse will eventually result in inaccuracy. When "checking" the torque, you should loosen the nut or bolt about half a turn, then bring it back to the proper torque. Just pulling on the wrench until it clicks proves nothing except that the nut is AT LEAST that tight. You don't really know how tight it is!"
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Old 04-04-2015, 08:51 PM   #53
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When "checking" the torque, you should loosen the nut or bolt about half a turn, then bring it back to the proper torque.
If you follow that advice, would you not have to check and re-torque every hundred miles for the entire length of your trip?
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Old 04-04-2015, 08:53 PM   #54
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Errr-no. What makes you think that?
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Old 04-04-2015, 09:27 PM   #55
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If you take the wheel off and put it back on, the procedure is to re-torque after a hundred miles or so, so if you undo the nuts ( even one at a time ) would you not be in a similar situation?
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Old 04-04-2015, 09:36 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
OK, enough talk, time for some action

Since I've gone a couple of thousand miles or more since I last checked them I thought that it might be interesting to re-check them.

Checked the first one with my cheapie torque wrench, readings were good, then checked with a higher level wrench and the readings were still all good. Out of 20 lug nuts 2 almost imperceptibly moved.

It looks to me that once the initial re tightening is done and things are well seated that the need to re-check them goes down. Certainly I've had other trailers that went for years without me checking.


Ron
Reminds me when I had a tent trailer for 4 years I never torqued them in the 4 years . Never knew you should do that and no one told me . I guess I was lucky .
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:29 PM   #57
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If you take the wheel off and put it back on, the procedure is to re-torque after a hundred miles or so, so if you undo the nuts ( even one at a time ) would you not be in a similar situation?
Who said anything about removing the wheel? My take on the aircraft mechanic's quote was what I said earlier: release the tension on the lug to be able to properly torque it to spec. It's not complicated.
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:32 PM   #58
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I didn't say anything about removing the wheel, nor did you.
I said, how is it different from removing the wheel if you undo the lug? Don't you have to re-torque in a hundred miles?
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:41 PM   #59
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Kinda like where the hole went I guess.
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Old 04-05-2015, 03:00 PM   #60
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... how is it different from removing the wheel if you undo the lug? Don't you have to re-torque in a hundred miles?
Maybe not. If only one nut is loosened at a time, the wheel doesn't shift on the hub, and the primary reason for re-torqing does not exist.
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