re-torque of trailer wheels/what's the ft.lbs.

[Washingtonia]

Page 60 in the Escape Trailer Owner's Manual? What the what?!?

Our vintage 2013 owner's manual -- weighing in at a whopping 22 pages -- states that torque should be "90-120 foot pounds". That's quite a spread. Sounds like ETI's advice has gotten a bit more specific.

[padlin]

Don't see the 2014 owners manual in the files directory above, if you want it pm me your email address and I can beam it to you.

[Washingtonia]

Thanks for the offer. It's on the ETI website.

[davescape]

While checking around the forum for some clarification on torque for aluminum wheels (it seems to vary from trailer sticker to manual to verbal orientation instruction) I came across this opinion on loosening your nuts before you re-torque them. A few people objected that this did not make sense, but not really strongly enough. Time for a disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic so my advice is my experienced opinion only. A real licensed mechanic or engineer should weigh in on this. Never loosen your lug nuts before you re-tighten them unless you plan on checking your lug nuts every 60 miles (like every hour during the trip). The only times you should loosen your lug nuts is when you suspect they have been over-torqued or when you are removing the wheel.

[cpaharley2008]

My experience with 2 trailers, both with aluminum wheels were that the factory wheels could not be made any tighter than what they were from the factory, after 500 to10,000 miles. That said, recent new tire/bearing local service, after 100 miles needed further tightening.

[tractors1]

Most of the torque for tightening a bolt is to overcome the friction between the nut face and the wheel, somewhat less to overcome the friction between the nut and bolt threads, and the smallest amount to stretch the bolt - the total is called the preload on the fastener. Ideally it should stay within the elastic range of the bolt material so the bolt does not permanently stretch, which would eventually lead to bolt failure. I don't see any advantage to loosening the nut prior to re-tightening as it's just relaxing the bolt material and then stretching the same bolt again.

Here's a good chart with how the torque is distributed when tightening:

Methods of Tightening Threaded Fasteners

Yup, I are a semi-retired mechanical engineer.........

[gbaglo]

My confusion is that if I am to loosen the bolt before torquing, and I am to check it after a 100 miles, do I loosen the bolts and torque, and if I do that every 100 miles, when do I get home?

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

My confusion is that if I am to loosen the bolt before torquing, and I am to check it after a 100 miles, do I loosen the bolts and torque, and if I do that every 100 miles, when do I get home?

Can't fault that logic!

[thoer]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

My confusion is that if I am to loosen the bolt before torquing, and I am to check it after a 100 miles, do I loosen the bolts and torque, and if I do that every 100 miles, when do I get home?

Tomorrow, same day as the free beer.[emoji39]

[Greg A]

I think this is the point where Alf comes on and says "that now he's really torqued."

[dfandrews]

Originally Posted by thoer

Tomorrow, same day as the free beer.[emoji39]

Per the sticker permanently attached to our 17: 90-95 ft-lbs.

We retorqued at the 1st campsite (<100 miles from ETI).

Retorqued at 2nd campsite (100 more miles of curvy roads).

And then a 3rd time after about 250 miles. Third time was it;
after that: no movement.

Checked recently (2800 miles), no movement.

[davescape]

Originally Posted by tractors1

Yup, I are a semi-retired mechanical engineer.........

Thanks for bringing some science to the discussion. I feel better now.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

My confusion is that if I am to loosen the bolt before torquing, and I am to check it after a 100 miles, do I loosen the bolts and torque, and if I do that every 100 miles, when do I get home?

Cars don't need this re-torquing, despite the fact that almost all now have alloy wheels, because they are hub-centric. The re-torquing of trailer wheels makes up for the wheels not being properly centred - and thus the nuts not being properly seated - on original installation due to the lack of precision centering by the hub. If you only loosen one nut at a time, the wheel is not going to move, so you're not restarting this ongoing attempt to get the wheel properly centered - I don't see a reason to go through the whole sequence again.

[MyronL]

I've never torqued a lug in my life. After reading this tread, and after a recent trip I'm now all ready to go out and buy a wrench. But, you can smack me with a bag of hammers if I spend the big bucks for something so rarely used.

When contemplating the toilet valve I was going to buy a PEX cutter because I thought that was the way to get the unit out but then I saw it cost $16 for the cutter. *(Read sentence 3 above.) My neighbor had a cutter. Turned out didn't even need it. Just 2 days ago in a Salvation Army store, there was a PEX cutter, $4bucks. Grabbed it because you never know.

Waiting a call back from my neighbor on the torque wrench.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by MyronL

I've never torqued a lug in my life. After reading this tread, and after a recent trip I'm now all ready to go out and buy a wrench. But, you can smack me with a bag of hammers if I spend the big bucks for something so rarely used.

They're about $21 at Harbor Freight, Myron. I keep ours in the storage box, and check the lugs occasionally.

[thoer]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

They're about $21 at Harbor Freight, Myron. I keep ours in the storage box, and check the lugs occasionally.

Even cheaper on sale or with their always available 20% off coupons

[emers382]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

They're about $21 at Harbor Freight, Myron. I keep ours in the storage box, and check the lugs occasionally.

Just be careful if you order from Harbor Freight online. I did that to find I inadvertently ordered the 1/4 inch drive one, which is useless

[Iowa Dave]

I got new tires a couple of weeks ago, rather than pull the trailer out to the tire dealer, I took the old tires and rims out there in the Highlander. I brought all 8 back, the old ones will fit my utility trailer too, and put the new ones on the trailer, using just a standard length 1/2 inch drive ratchet, I snugged them down and checked them : 35 ft lbs. Then I got on them pretty good, probably as tight as some people could or physically would before they called it good. 65 ft lbs. Finally, I got serious with the torque wrench and set them to 95 ft lbs. I was a little surprised I did not have them tighter with the ratchet. The longer handle on the torque wrench made achieving the 95 pretty easy. Top rating on this wrench is 150. Than would take a significant pull. Moral of story, you can't be sure or accurate unless you are truly special without a torque wrench. I can see a closest to the number contest with cold drinks as a prize. Probably just a nutty idea.
Dave

[thoer]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

?.. I can see a closest to the number contest with cold drinks as a prize. Probably just a nutty idea.
Dave

Alright, you've created the first event for this year's Midwest Rally...I'm in! What tires did you end up getting?

[Iowa Dave]

Eric
I bought Marathons. $82.50 each 205 14s. Mounted,
Balanced, new stems 7% state sales tax so our governor can speed and pay his fine, oh wait , no fine 90 mph. $417 and change for 4. Local Goodyear dealer. Not everybody is a big fan of these, I have had good luck. Gotta dance with the one that brought you. I'll bring the Proto and the SK, I won't need beer cause I am going to win.
Dave