Reminder to mind the Chrome - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 02-08-2015, 08:18 PM   #1
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Reminder to mind the Chrome

Our trailer is 5 months old and am waiting another month before its first waxing as per advice on this forum. When washing it last week I noticed the chrome door hinges had some oxidation. Bought some chrome polish and it got the grime off however there is some pitting already. Glad I got to the hatch latches, etc. before they did.
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Old 02-08-2015, 08:26 PM   #2
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Chrome pits (then rusts), aluminum is even worse. The best thing to do is keep everything waxed, with a good hard wax. Not those wash-n-wax preps.

Anyone remember Crager SS wheels?
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Old 02-08-2015, 08:31 PM   #3
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...with a good hard wax.
Any suggestions here? Thank you...
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Old 02-08-2015, 08:41 PM   #4
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Also the little lock covers will stick unless lubricated, I waxed the trailer and chrome and lubed the locks and stabilizers today.
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Old 02-08-2015, 08:42 PM   #5
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Reminder to mind the Chrome

I don't use wax on Chrome because wax is designed to protect a coated surface such as paint or clear coat -- not metal. I have used 3M Chrome and Metal Polish for many years and there is virtually no pitting or oxidation on things I apply it to -- like Chrome wheels. By the way, for heavily pitted chrome you can actually sand it with 300-400 grit sandpaper then buff it out with the 3M -- looks like new.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-39527-Chrom.../dp/B0009H50WW
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Old 02-08-2015, 08:44 PM   #6
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Thanks for the tip, just added it to my Amazon wish list.
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Old 02-08-2015, 08:44 PM   #7
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Anything with carnuba. Not a carnuba wax (with other stuff). It's hard to put on and hard to take off, but puts a barrier unlike other waxes. Mothers and Mequiars are two brands. Google. Just remember, you're not applying these hard waxes to the entire trailer. So, it takes you 30 minutes to an hour to protect SOME pieces. Is it worth it? Only you can decide.
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Old 02-08-2015, 09:08 PM   #8
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Anything with carnuba. Not a carnuba wax (with other stuff). It's hard to put on and hard to take off, but puts a barrier unlike other waxes.

Almost. Carnauba is the hardest natural wax known, and because of its hardness it creates an angular sheen (some people call it faceting) that is glossier than other waxes. There are some disadvantages however. It doesn't last as long as some other waxes or polymer coatings, and it's harder to apply. On a show car, I think a Carnauba wax just looks wetter and makes the paint richer than other coatings. As an RV coating, I don't really see the payoff in terms of ease of application and durability. There are many coatings that do a superb job of protecting gel coat while lasting 2 or 3 times longer than Carnauba. Will it be as shiny? No, but the difference is not really perceptible without a gloss meter. Lastly, a high quality Chrome Polish does a better job than wax at protecting Chrome - whether the wax is Carnauba or not.
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Old 02-08-2015, 09:18 PM   #9
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You got me there Robert. I use Fritz on all the unprotected chrome/aluminum on my vehicles. But truly a good carnumba wax is so much better than Turtle wax... But, THAT's not what I apply to gelcoat, just the metal.
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Old 02-08-2015, 09:24 PM   #10
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Not trying to get you Donna

Just saying that a chrome polish is better than any wax on metal, as in the OP's scenario.

I worked in the coatings industry for several years and I sometimes wish I didn't...I can geek out too easily.
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Old 02-08-2015, 09:37 PM   #11
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Old 02-08-2015, 10:42 PM   #12
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Also the little lock covers will stick unless lubricated, I waxed the trailer and chrome and lubed the locks and stabilizers today.
That reminds me-- What about lubricating lock cylinders? I have used graphite, but I wonder if there is something more modern and effective for this?
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Old 02-08-2015, 10:48 PM   #13
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I've lubed the exterior hatch locks with graphite. Keys go in and turn smoothly. If I need to do the same thing a year from now... So WHAT? I consider some of this stuff as maintenance issues. YMMV
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Old 02-08-2015, 10:55 PM   #14
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I had one of those defective deadbolt door locks that were recalled. I installed the replacement cylinder and it works okay except for one thing: the cover inside the keyhole does not automatically spring back into place when I remove the key, it stays open so rain can get into the keyhole. I can make it shut by tapping it a couple of times. Graphite didn't seem to help this, but I thought something else might.
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Old 02-09-2015, 05:50 AM   #15
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The guy at the lock and safe shop suggested I use Lock-ease.
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Old 02-09-2015, 11:07 AM   #16
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That reminds me-- What about lubricating lock cylinders? I have used graphite, but I wonder if there is something more modern and effective for this?
I read an overly long article by a locksmith, who ended up recommending Tri-Flow.
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Old 02-09-2015, 11:22 AM   #17
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I had one of those defective deadbolt door locks that were recalled. I installed the replacement cylinder and it works okay except for one thing: the cover inside the keyhole does not automatically spring back into place when I remove the key, it stays open so rain can get into the keyhole. I can make it shut by tapping it a couple of times. Graphite didn't seem to help this, but I thought something else might.
Same here, replaced the lock but the lock cover sticks.
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Old 02-09-2015, 11:44 AM   #18
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Our trailer is 5 months old and am waiting another month before its first waxing as per advice on this forum. When washing it last week I noticed the chrome door hinges had some oxidation. Bought some chrome polish and it got the grime off however there is some pitting already. Glad I got to the hatch latches, etc. before they did.
After decades of RV'ing I have noticed a very short life on many of the chromed accessories (door handles, hinges, faucets, etc.). Somehow I suspect that the failure (pitting and oxidation) is related to the underlying material. Often it resembles pot metal.
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Old 02-09-2015, 12:32 PM   #19
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Quote:
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I had one of those defective deadbolt door locks that were recalled. I installed the replacement cylinder and it works okay except for one thing: the cover inside the keyhole does not automatically spring back into place when I remove the key, it stays open so rain can get into the keyhole. I can make it shut by tapping it a couple of times. Graphite didn't seem to help this, but I thought something else might.

I have used silicone lubricant on all our locks, RV window tracks etc. for years and have never had any problems.

Cheers
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