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Old 07-02-2014, 07:18 PM   #1
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Removing moisture

I use the Dri-Z-Air containers.
Found packages of the pellets at Walmart. 13 oz. for $4.47 ( plus tax ) or more than 34 cents an ounce.
Bought the same product ( calcium chloride ) at a small RV store near me, 8 pounds for $17.69 ( plus tax ) or 14 cents an ounce.

I expect the bulk container would be cheaper in the U.S. and at a big box store.
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:46 PM   #2
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As ice melter the same chemical is even cheaper... roughly $1/kg (or about three cents an ounce). I don't know if the ice melter version would be pure enough, in fine enough particles, or otherwise suitable for RV desiccant use, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to try.
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Old 07-02-2014, 10:31 PM   #3
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I use a couple of these Amazon.com: Eva-dry Renewable E-333 Wireless Mini Dehumidifer: Home & Kitchen and one of these when the unit is in storage http://www.amazon.com/Davis-Instrume...vis+instrument
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:08 AM   #4
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It's too bad they claim this is a "dryer" - it is, in fact, a small (70 watt) heater. If a small heat source helps that's fine, and this is suitable because it is intended to be left on continuously and unattended... it just doesn't remove any moisture so it is not a dryer or dehumidifier.
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:24 AM   #5
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Friend of mine gave me one similar that he used on his boat. I guess that was the first clue. He gave it to me.
I think you could just plug in a lamp with a 60 watt bulb and accomplish the same thing, which is warm the air.
If the device doesn't collect moisture so you can remove the moisture, just what is it doing?
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:39 AM   #6
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We have had a "stor dry" unit for years--used it first with our Boler.

it said something about keeping the temperature just above the "dew point"?
Anyhow we do have electricity out to our trailer and have used it every winter--no mildew, no dampness and I do not have to remember about emptying the pellets.
The first year we had the Boler we parked it up at my aunts--closed up tighter than a drum (as best our stupid door would close) and tarped it etc--we went up in the spring and had a furry beast inside and outside... I dare say we have learnt a few things since those days!
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:57 AM   #7
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I use a combination of heat and Dri Z Air containers ( 2 ).
I keep a 800 watt oil-filled heater in the trailer over winter and turn it on from time to time. I empty a cup of liquid ( it's not water ) from each container every two or three weeks.
On a nice day, I'll crack a window and turn the Maxxfan on for a few hours.
All cupboard doors open, all year, when the trailer is not in use.
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Old 07-03-2014, 01:21 AM   #8
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We have been using DampRid FG50T Hi-Capacity Moisture Absorber, 4-Pound Tub, costs about $10 for a 4 or 5 pound tub available from Amazon or Walmart.

It seems to do the trick. We use one of these each year.
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Old 07-03-2014, 01:50 AM   #9
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I swear by the Dry-Z-Air units, use two of them. The chemicals get a little pricey if you don't buy in bulk, and whatever you do don't empty the containers on your lawn!

When I had a 25 foot sailboat that I kept in the harbor here, I used three Dry-Z-Airs units, AND an electric "Goldenrod Heater" and just managed to stay ahead of the moisture.
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Old 07-03-2014, 05:20 AM   #10
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For the northerners among us.

Have had our Starcraft for 8 years, year before last come spring we had it's 1st case of mildew. Used the chemical tubs last year without a recurrence. How well do the chemical units work in sub zero temps? Mine froze solid at some point and seemed to stay that way till spring. Now with the new trailer I'm going to try something else.

Do you leave your trailer closed up tight or a couple windows cracked?
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Old 07-03-2014, 05:35 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
It's too bad they claim this is a "dryer" - it is, in fact, a small (70 watt) heater. If a small heat source helps that's fine, and this is suitable because it is intended to be left on continuously and unattended... it just doesn't remove any moisture so it is not a dryer or dehumidifier.
Actually most dehumidifiers and air conditioners create heat as a byproduct of their operation.
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Old 07-03-2014, 05:40 AM   #12
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For the northerners among us.

Have had our Starcraft for 8 years, year before last come spring we had it's 1st case of mildew. Used the chemical tubs last year without a recurrence. How well do the chemical units work in sub zero temps? Mine froze solid at some point and seemed to stay that way till spring. Now with the new trailer I'm going to try something else.

Do you leave your trailer closed up tight or a couple windows cracked?
If the trailer is not being used, condensation would not be an issue during cold weather. Keeping a small heater on and closed up is what I do.
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:43 AM   #13
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t said something about keeping the temperature just above the "dew point"
The warmer air is, the more moisture it can hold. The dew point is the combination of the air's water content and temperature at which the air cannot hold any more moisture, so any chilling (such as by touching a colder surface) will cause water to condense out as dew.

Slightly warming air without changing the moisture content allows it to hold the moisture, so it doesn't come out as condensation.

Do the cheap heating "dryers" contain a humidity sensor? Seems unlikely, and in some conditions they wouldn't have nearly enough heat output.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Actually most dehumidifiers and air conditioners create heat as a byproduct of their operation.
Yes, but in this case heat is not a byproduct of the appliance's operation - it is the only effect. There isn't a refrigerant circuit, compressor, condenser, and evaporator in there.
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:51 AM   #14
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If the trailer is not being used, condensation would not be an issue during cold weather. Keeping a small heater on and closed up is what I do.
If you fill a box with warm air containing some moisture, seal it, and reduce the temperature enough, the air will reach the dew point and the surfaces will be covered with condensation. If you maintain the temperature all winter at the same level as it was at the point it was closed up, there won't be any condensation... but that would be ridiculous to do in many areas.

Reality will be somewhere in between the extremes, and could easily involve condensation, but could be okay depending on the weather on the day you close it up, the outside temperature, and how much heat you add.
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