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Old 06-30-2019, 11:03 AM   #1
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Replacing Brakes

Looking into replacing the brakes on the camper, have about 40k on them. Recently did the bearings and noticed the brakes are completly covered with rust and in one case the rear seal went so all the road dust is caked on. After reassembling I hooked up and took a ride to check the brakes. Going to max on the controller I can feel the brakes but far from locking up, which it used to do.


Going to attempt putting some test miles on it to clean up the shoe to drum connection then try adjusting them, still a good deal of meat on the shoes. If that doesn't give me enough braking I'm thinking of replacing the brake assembly.


Has anyone done so? if I recall correctly the wires are very short, Ild like to know how you cut and connected them together.


Also, do I need to replace the rear seal every time I pull a drum?
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Old 06-30-2019, 01:26 PM   #2
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My experience on the 2010 19 was to replace the entire assembly with Dexter assembly. The wires coming out of the backing plate were at least 10 inches long so no problem there. 11/16 box end wrench for the four mounting bolts. Otherwise pretty straightforward. I only replace the seals when I service the bearings because I usually mess them up getting the bearing driven out. For a couple bucks apiece for genuine Dexter seals I don’t fool around with them. Easy does it on tapping the new seals in, I usually use a block of wood crossways to keep the pressure even.
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Old 06-30-2019, 01:31 PM   #3
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Do you rough the shoe surface with heavy grit sandpaper? With "a lot of meat" you may be replacing the brakes prematurely. Mine have a bit of surface left and have around 60K or more towing.
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Old 06-30-2019, 01:50 PM   #4
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I'm more concerned with all the rust, but scuffing them up is a good idea.
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Old 06-30-2019, 02:01 PM   #5
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Do you feel that they may be binding on pivot points when activated due to rust? I’ve seen this where brakes got wet especially going through water and not dried out by heat or air before storage for a time. Used to happen on boats that were backed into the water and had surge brakes that were not set up so light as to activate on the way home or to storage. There is a brake lubricant product that doesn’t migrate to the shoes or drums.
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Old 06-30-2019, 05:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Looking into replacing the brakes on the camper, have about 40k on them. Recently did the bearings and noticed the brakes are completly covered with rust and in one case the rear seal went so all the road dust is caked on. After reassembling I hooked up and took a ride to check the brakes. Going to max on the controller I can feel the brakes but far from locking up, which it used to do.


Going to attempt putting some test miles on it to clean up the shoe to drum connection then try adjusting them, still a good deal of meat on the shoes. If that doesn't give me enough braking I'm thinking of replacing the brake assembly.


Has anyone done so? if I recall correctly the wires are very short, Ild like to know how you cut and connected them together.


Also, do I need to replace the rear seal every time I pull a drum?

If you decide to replace the brakes, I would consider changing them to the self adjusting ones. From literature:

  • Self-adjusting brakes do not require periodic manual adjustment like standard brakes.
  • Adjuster plugs (included) cover access holes to keep dirt and grime out of the assemblies and off of the shoes."
https://www.easternmarine.com/nev-r-...bly-k23-469-00
https://www.easternmarine.com/nev-r-...bly-k23-468-00
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File Type: jpg Dexter Nev-R-Adjust.jpg (76.5 KB, 32 views)
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Old 06-30-2019, 05:45 PM   #7
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think those are the ones I saw at etrailer.com
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Old 06-30-2019, 08:00 PM   #8
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What is your time worth. For the price just replace with whole assembly, that is what I have done in the past. Remove, Replace, Adjust and Go!
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Old 06-30-2019, 09:28 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
If you decide to replace the brakes, I would consider changing them to the self adjusting ones. From literature:

  • Self-adjusting brakes do not require periodic manual adjustment like standard brakes.
  • Adjuster plugs (included) cover access holes to keep dirt and grime out of the assemblies and off of the shoes."
https://www.easternmarine.com/nev-r-...bly-k23-469-00
https://www.easternmarine.com/nev-r-...bly-k23-468-00
Yes^^^. When I bought my Bigfoot, it had been sitting for several years and the brakes were badly rusted. I replaced them with the self adjusting Dexter assemblies and was very pleased. The self adjusting feature added about $10 a wheel and the self adjusters always worked perfectly. If I order a new 19 Escape I will ask for the self adjusting brake option.
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Old 07-01-2019, 12:33 PM   #10
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Yes^^^. When I bought my Bigfoot, it had been sitting for several years and the brakes were badly rusted. I replaced them with the self adjusting Dexter assemblies and was very pleased. The self adjusting feature added about $10 a wheel and the self adjusters always worked perfectly. If I order a new 19 Escape I will ask for the self adjusting brake option.
Are these the correct assemblies to purchase for the earlier 2500 lb axles on the 19' trailers?
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Old 07-01-2019, 01:00 PM   #11
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Are these the correct assemblies to purchase for the earlier 2500 lb axles on the 19' trailers?
Eastern Marine lists 2 shoe sizes that are common with 10 inch drums. One of these should replace your existing assemblies if you have 10 inch brake drums. If you have 7 inch drums, you may not be able to get the self adjusting ones.
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Old 07-01-2019, 01:24 PM   #12
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Are these the correct assemblies to purchase for the earlier 2500 lb axles on the 19' trailers?
The 2500-pound-rated axles are Dexter Torflex #10, just like the 3500-pound-rated axles. They are mechanically identical, so the use the same bearings and brakes - they just have shorter rubber rods in them to act as softer springs.
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Old 07-01-2019, 03:39 PM   #13
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Are these the correct assemblies to purchase for the earlier 2500 lb axles on the 19' trailers?
Yes also would like to know too Pat
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Old 07-01-2019, 05:24 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
The 2500-pound-rated axles are Dexter Torflex #10, just like the 3500-pound-rated axles. They are mechanically identical, so the use the same bearings and brakes - they just have shorter rubber rods in them to act as softer springs.
If you have a #10 Torflex Dexter axle it should have 10 X 2 1/4 brake drums. The Dexter part numbers for the #10 Torflex brake kits are 5331186 (right) and 5331185 (left).
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Old 07-01-2019, 07:12 PM   #15
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I think I'm going to convert to self-adjusting brakes since the costs are low with many satisfied users.
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Old 07-01-2019, 07:29 PM   #16
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I think I'm going to convert to self-adjusting brakes since the costs are low with many satisfied users.
I have them in the garage awaiting install.
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Old 07-02-2019, 12:52 PM   #17
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Attempted to adjust the brakes, had to take the rears apart as the star wheels wouldn't budge. After adjusting all 4 I hooked up and went for a ride. Could feel the trailer brakes, but not all that much, even with the controller at max. Stopped after a twisty down hill and checked the temps, the 2 rears were 160. the 2 fronts were 85, and it's 80 out right now.

Jacked one side up and had my better half apply the brakes, which require the TV to be running. The rear locks up, front does nothing. Readjusted the front, still nothing.

Ordered Nev-R-Adjust. Even if I take them apart, clean up all the rust and road crud to get them working I still won't trust them. The magnets, if that's what they are, get pretty beat up.
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Old 07-02-2019, 01:37 PM   #18
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Jacked one side up and had my better half apply the brakes, which require the TV to be running. The rear locks up, front does nothing. Readjusted the front, still nothing.
If the fronts are literally doing nothing, you may have a fault in the wiring. If the wires are intact and the magnet is only worn (not destroyed), then there should be an audible "clack' as the magnet hits the drum, even if the rest of the hardware is worn out.
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Old 07-02-2019, 01:55 PM   #19
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I hear a buzz, as opposed to a click.
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Old 07-02-2019, 01:55 PM   #20
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There’s a split plastic sleeve covering the pigtail coming out of the backing plate. About. 10 inches away the connection is made with the hot wires from the trailer loom. On our 2010 19, the crimp on the connector had missed the metal sleeve and only crimped plastic. Eventually corrosion started and there was no connection or a very weak connection. My shoes were worn down pretty good but the right front not so much because it was not working with full voltage. When I replaced all four, I used the best sleeve connector my supplier had and was careful to get a good crimp on the metal. The connectors were heat shrink so I then heated them up to shrink tight and had no problem the rest of the time we had the 19. The problem probably was not detectable at the time the trailer was built but developed over time. It was a problem at the trailer frame mfr. not at Escape.
Not that you shouldn’t change out your brakes , just my experience with the connection of the wires.
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