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Old 04-25-2017, 10:42 AM   #21
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Bow to stern UV protection nice, thanks never heard of it. Now have two choices to look for. Appreciate it thoer and skiman
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Old 04-25-2017, 11:58 AM   #22
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My 2 cents:

5 Questions:

two) How important is waxing the roof? Both myself and every RV waxing person I have spoken with is concerned with the difficulty in waxing the roof. I don't have scaffolding….. that would be a pain to organize. Don't have a vehicle big enough to carry scaffolding. Don't have time to get scaffolding...

For me, it's very important to wax the roof. I wax every 3 months with Meguiar's Flagship Premium marine wax. I live in Pacific NW. I felt too busy to do my regular waxing prior to spending 3 weeks in southern California. The weather in CA was 100 F for 3 weeks. When I got home I had some UV damage to the roof. Nothing too bad, but I don't like it. I'll use some Meguiars Oxidation Remover to fix. My point is, it's important to me to wax the roof to prevent UV damage. As others have said, I set up a standard A frame ladder next to trailer and can reach the mid point of the roof easily, then put ladder on other side to complete roof.


three)This guy said he would normally use Meguiars M5001 Marine/RV One Step Cleaner Wax normally…. As the Escape is 4 months old, I'm told that either Marine grade paste wax or liquified carnauba wax would be best. A 100% wax solution is best… one without cleaners in it, as it is pretty darned clean now (I just cleaned it) Thoughts? Supposedly it is non abrasive…… and it does get good reviews, overall, on Amazon….

I asked Meguiar's about the cleaner wax versus the Flagship Premium. The Flagship is a better wax that lasts much longer. I have found the cleaner wax useful to remove marks that won't easily come out with regular washing. Your new trailer shouldn't really need anything other than washing and protecting with a good wax. I think in the owner's manual ETI recommends wax intended for fiberglass/marine.

four) I was told that they should buff first, to remove surface contaminants, then wax. Is this true?

No, this is not true. Your 4 month old trailer should require no buffing.

five) I know I should be more concerned about the plastics yellowing than the fiberglass at this point…. but …. how much real world UV protection would a wax such as Meguiars M5001 offer?

In my experience, except for the roof as noted, my 3 year old trailer that sits outside looks brand new due to regular waxing. I don't think Meguiar's Flagship premium is necessarily the best, but I think it's totally worth it to protect the gel coat.
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Old 04-25-2017, 02:42 PM   #23
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303

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Some folks use 303 everywhere on the trailer for its UV protection. The advantage for the roof is that it can be sprayed on and just wiped dry. But it does have to be done on a regular basis.
We do the same as Eric.
We are in Ventura County, so we get the same sun as Los Angeles, but without the level of smog-causing pollutants, but With marine moisture-laden air from the Pacific 12 miles away.
3-4 times a year, after any major trip, the trailer gets washed, then 303 is applied from its spray bottle, and wiped dry, per the mfr's instructions. We start with the entire roof, then work down the sides.
Just prior to trips, we tend to apply 303 to all plastic surfaces (maxxfan, frig vents, stove/kitchen vent), and to all leading edges, front of the trailer, and wheel wells.
Having done that for the 1½ years of its life, there is a detectable smoothness (residue?) on the gelcoat, from the 303. The trailer looks as good as new.
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Old 04-25-2017, 03:27 PM   #24
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Found this on the McGuire's forum:

17. Do car waxes provide real UV protection?

Some waxes do contain UV-protection agents, but the amount of protection that a microscopically thin layer of wax can provide is limited

The primary goal of a wax is to protect the top layers of paint that contain UV-protection agents from the paint manufacture. If you wash and wax your car regularly, your paint will be protected and you should suffer no major UV damage over the normal course of the life of the car.

Don't be fooled by some companies that lead you to believe that it is the UV protection in a wax that protects your car's finish from fading and failure, this is dishonest and simply not true. Taking care of the paint you presently have will go further to protect your finish than relying on protection supplied by a liquid you pour out of a bottle, or a wax you scoop out of a can. UV protection in a car wax formula is only an extra-dose of preventative maintenance, not the end-all, cure-all that some companies would lead you to believe.

UV protection for paint is much different from UV blocking ingredients for human skin. The two formulas are nothing alike and work in drastically different ways. There is no correlation between the ratings applied to the different levels of sun blocking protection for products intended for use on human skin and the ingredients available for use in an automotive wax formula. Sad to say, much of what you see advertised about the protective qualities of most car care products on the market today is simply over-exaggerated hype used to separate you from your hard earned dollars.
Read more at http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...kwy1gEJeMB2.99
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Old 04-25-2017, 03:59 PM   #25
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bad link here on a desktop. Bummer paint and Human skin is mentioned and not fiberglass Gelcoat
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Old 04-25-2017, 04:07 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zardoz View Post
Found this on the McGuire's forum:

17. Do car waxes provide real UV protection?
Thanks for this and for providing attribution.
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Old 04-25-2017, 05:18 PM   #27
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From the Mequiar's RV Wax web page. "Protects against the sun’s ultraviolet rays. *Use wax only after surface has been cleaned & restored to a “like new” or “average” finish."

And from Starbrite, "The PTEF polymers provide unmatched protection against UV rays"

Guess we need to pay attention.
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Old 04-25-2017, 05:47 PM   #28
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Maybe we could rub zinc ointment on the top and get something like those little nose tents tourist wear down here for the parts that stick out.
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Old 04-25-2017, 08:32 PM   #29
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When I told Reace that we were moving to AZ yesterday during our orientation, he quipped, "you'll have to up your waxing game." So today I spent some time Googling UV rays (and learning how you get sun burns and sun tans) and all sorts of stuff but could not find any information other than OPINIONS on what worked best to protect fiberglass from UV rays. Right now, I'm not convinced that there's anything that can short of a cover. If anyone has any information (that's not just an opinion) I'd appreciate hearing about it. Thanks!
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:29 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Zardoz View Post
When I told Reace that we were moving to AZ yesterday during our orientation, he quipped, "you'll have to up your waxing game." So today I spent some time Googling UV rays (and learning how you get sun burns and sun tans) and all sorts of stuff but could not find any information other than OPINIONS on what worked best to protect fiberglass from UV rays. Right now, I'm not convinced that there's anything that can short of a cover. If anyone has any information (that's not just an opinion) I'd appreciate hearing about it. Thanks!
At the risk of getting too technical, Rich, here goes. In ultra high UV areas like Arizona, a wax may not be your best choice.

Most waxes are Carnuaba based, which in high UV environments can actually promote oxidation or hazing as it breaks down over time from the UV rays.
Anything containing petroleum distillates or oils can do the same thing.

So, what to use? I would highly recommend a polymer based polish instead of a wax. It won't provide much UV protection, nor will any wax or polish, because the amount on a polished surface is too thin to be an effective UV blocker. There are several polymer based polishes that will work great in high sun areas, like Starbrite, Rejex or Leverage to name a few.

For the things on the trailer that are susceptible to UV damage, like the vents or the graphics, a bit of 303 once a quarter and you're done.

While some of this is my personal opinion, it's also based on observation with all types of coatings, when I used to work in that industry.

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Old 04-25-2017, 09:32 PM   #31
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I think the bottom line, Rich, is a 10 year old well-maintained fiberglass trailer is going to look like a 10 year old welll-maintained trailer no matter where you live. What I've found over the years are the ones that aren't well-maintained get pretty rough on the chalking. However, it's amazing how well I've been able to bring the poorly maintained shells back to life. So molded fiberglass trailers are pretty resilient birds.
Here is a 96 Scamp 13 that spent most of it's life in WA, then sat in a field for about 4 years in AZ. The shell looked horrible when I got it and most folks wouldn't have bought it. When it was finished it looked like the day it left Scamp brand new.
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:47 PM   #32
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Opinion only!!! Sorry, not an expert although I have three sailplane trailers which have been thriving on neglect, the dirt actually protects the gelcoat finish.
1. Bare fiberglass corrugated roofing has been sold for decades and doesn't seem to disintegrate from UV damage, just large hail, wind and tornados.
2. The gelcoat has very tiny pores which, if kept filled with wax or polish will protect the shine. Not sure if it protects the gelcoat from UV although I'm pretty sure the gelcoat itself is a UV barrier for the fiberglass. I have polished off lichen from sailplane trailers which weren't waxed for 10 years or longer but the gelcoat then shined up pretty well after cleaning and polishing. Not a brand new shine though.
3. Latex paint will block UV to the gelcoat which blocks UV to the fiberglass which can probably survive 4 or 5 decades without any paint on it but then you may want to polish the latex paint.
4. After 20 or more years of neglect, even in the Arizona sun you can still sand the gelcoat and then apply a polyurethane acrylic paint and the outside will look like new again.
5. Wraps are becoming common and can last many years, then peel them off and the gelcoat underneath will look like new.
6. I plan on using a good boat wax specially for gelcoat approx 3 times per year, more on the nose of the trailer or where there is a buildup of bugs. If I can apply wax to the roof of the trailer but not do a good job of buffing it off what is the harm? The wax is still there and the wind can buff it. I will probably always have a container of wax and use it occasionally on camping trips for something to do. I can park my truck alongside the trailer sometimes and stand in the bed and wax the top.
7. I'm planning on storing the trailer uncovered but I may apply a film or something to the windows.
8. I am interested in using something for a rock guard, which is basically a clear wrap. I will also paint the vent plastic and maybe use plasti dip on some parts.
9. I will always wash with a mild auto detergent and never use a pressure washer.
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:51 PM   #33
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All I have ever seen is manufacturers claims, other the Consumer Reports rating NuFinish liquid as the longest lasting. I've used it on all my cars and our Escapes and it lasts very well - BUT all my vehicles are stored in garages, so that needs to be taken into account for sure. I use 303 on all the plastic and rubber parts. We only needed to do NuFinish once a year and nearly everyone who saw our 17 commented on how is always looked brand new.

(I know I'm treading on dangerous ground here daring to mention Consumer Reports. Some folks here abouts go into near apoplexy at the merest mention of that organization )
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:53 PM   #34
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Wx Seal- Premium Aircraft Wax Alternative

This is a popular product for sailplane owners because it is formulated for gelcoat and doesn't contain any silicone. There is an argument\that using auto wax which contains silicone can affect the bonding of epoxy if there is damage to the aircraft and it needs to be glued back together. A lot of repair people think that is a bogus issue because they would soak the fiberglass with acetone and that would get rid of the silicone molecules floating around. I have used it and still have some left over from 12 years ago.
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Old 04-25-2017, 10:01 PM   #35
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All I have ever seen is manufacturers claims, other the Consumer Reports rating NuFinish liquid as the longest lasting. I've used it on all my cars and our Escapes and it lasts very well - BUT all my vehicles are stored in garages, so that needs to be taken into account for sure. I use 303 on all the plastic and rubber parts. We only needed to do NuFinish once a year and nearly everyone who saw our 17 commented on how is always looked brand new.

(I know I'm treading on dangerous ground here daring to mention Consumer Reports. Some folks here abouts go into near apoplexy at the merest mention of that organization )
I agree , NuFinish works well when you store your vehicle or trailer in a garage.
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Old 04-25-2017, 11:23 PM   #36
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At the risk of getting too technical, Rich, here goes. In ultra high UV areas like Arizona, a wax may not be your best choice.

Most waxes are Carnuaba based, which in high UV environments can actually promote oxidation or hazing as it breaks down over time from the UV rays.
Anything containing petroleum distillates or oils can do the same thing.

So, what to use? I would highly recommend a polymer based polish instead of a wax. It won't provide much UV protection, nor will any wax or polish, because the amount on a polished surface is too thin to be an effective UV blocker. There are several polymer based polishes that will work great in high sun areas, like Starbrite, Rejex or Leverage to name a few.

For the things on the trailer that are susceptible to UV damage, like the vents or the graphics, a bit of 303 once a quarter and you're done.

While some of this is my personal opinion, it's also based on observation with all types of coatings, when I used to work in that industry.

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Thanks, Robert! I read many similar comments/observations earlier today which support your experences. However, in your third paragraph, you start with "highly recommending a polymer based polish" but in the same sentence you say it won't provide much UV protection. In the following sentence you say they'll work great in high sun areas. Sorry, but I'm confused. In your opinion, is there anything that will help minimize UV damage? If not, what do the polymers offer? Appreciate your help on this!
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Old 04-25-2017, 11:27 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Greg A View Post
I think the bottom line, Rich, is a 10 year old well-maintained fiberglass trailer is going to look like a 10 year old welll-maintained trailer no matter where you live. What I've found over the years are the ones that aren't well-maintained get pretty rough on the chalking. However, it's amazing how well I've been able to bring the poorly maintained shells back to life. So molded fiberglass trailers are pretty resilient birds.
Here is a 96 Scamp 13 that spent most of it's life in WA, then sat in a field for about 4 years in AZ. The shell looked horrible when I got it and most folks wouldn't have bought it. When it was finished it looked like the day it left Scamp brand new.
It's reassuring that despite the Sun's best efforts, our Eggs can be resurrected. Appreciate seeing that the proof is indeed, in the pudding. Thanks, Greg.
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Old 04-25-2017, 11:46 PM   #38
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Thanks, Robert! I read many similar comments/observations earlier today which support your experences. However, in your third paragraph, you start with "highly recommending a polymer based polish" but in the same sentence you say it won't provide much UV protection. In the following sentence you say they'll work great in high sun areas. Sorry, but I'm confused. In your opinion, is there anything that will help minimize UV damage? If not, what do the polymers offer? Appreciate your help on this!
Rich, what I'm trying to say (inarticulately) is that the gelcoat itself won't really be harmed by UV. A quality polish once or twice a year and it will look great for many years to come. Polymer polishes won't break down and oxidize or haze the gelcoat like waxes and petroleum based products can.

Plastic vents and colored vinyl graphics on the other hand will deteriorate rapidly in high UV areas, unless periodically protected with a UV blocking treatment like 303. I've now used 303 for two decades, and it works.

So, put simply, a quality polymer polish on the gelcoat, and a UV blocking protectant on the rest.

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Old 04-26-2017, 07:09 AM   #39
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Rich, what I'm trying to say (inarticulately) is that the gelcoat itself won't really be harmed by UV. A quality polish once or twice a year and it will look great for many years to come. Polymer polishes won't break down and oxidize or haze the gelcoat like waxes and petroleum based products can.

Plastic vents and colored vinyl graphics on the other hand will deteriorate rapidly in high UV areas, unless periodically protected with a UV blocking treatment like 303. I've now used 303 for two decades, and it works.

So, put simply, a quality polymer polish on the gelcoat, and a UV blocking protectant on the rest.

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Thanks, Robert; this is very much appreciated.
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Old 04-26-2017, 07:42 AM   #40
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About block n seal.....since we are rv's and not planes, Davis do you think a person could buy just part one or two and not both to save on the cost yet get the UV protection? A quart is a good price compared to 14.99 bottle of 303 at my auto parts store. Thanks in advance
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