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Old 02-14-2016, 12:33 PM   #41
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The fresh water tank drain fitting on my trailer is easily removed. This provides a much better outflow rate when draining the tank. My white walled tank is not insulated so light passes through and things grow in there if potable water is stored too long.
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Old 02-14-2016, 12:48 PM   #42
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The fresh water tank drain fitting on my trailer is easily removed. This provides a much better outflow rate when draining the tank. My white walled tank is not insulated so light passes through and things grow in there if potable water is stored too long.
another reason for the foam spray.....
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Old 02-14-2016, 02:50 PM   #43
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I agree apart from the bleach concentration the difference between CDC's recommendations and ETI's seems to be contact time. I haven't seen a leading Health Organizations recommend lower dilutions with longer contact times. Bleach works by oxidizing cell membranes which is a fairly rapid process and perhaps the longer time allows the bleach to penetrate organic material. It would be great if ETI provided a reference to refer to.

I would NOT attempt to neutralize bleach with vinegar as it can produce chlorine gas. Flushing with water is more than adequate.

There are significant differences in amounts of bleach needed to sterilize water to drink, needed to sanitize a water container/tank, or inhibit growth of micro-organisms in public water systems.
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Old 02-14-2016, 02:58 PM   #44
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Gordon - what would you recommend for amounts of bleach to use?
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Old 02-14-2016, 03:02 PM   #45
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The problem with small amounts of bleach ( chlorine ) for a longer time is that the chlorine dissipates with time and exposure to air.
There is chlorine in our municipal water, which is why I fill the coffee maker the night before and why we keep a jug of water in the fridge.

I'm curious why the desire to find answers other than those provided by a university or the Center for Disease Control.
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Old 02-14-2016, 03:08 PM   #46
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I think another problem with longer exposure to a bleach solution would be that it can damage some seals and especially rubber if left to soak for long periods.

And Glenn you're right - those are two reliable sources. I think the questions come from the fact that some sanitation concentrations mentioned are for food preparation surfaces rather than killing off the potential biofilms that can form in pipes and containers that are constantly moist. At least that's what I'm confused about.
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Old 02-14-2016, 03:45 PM   #47
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We once had problem with kitchen sink . It stunk really bad . The reason I think in a effort to be careful with water usage , very little went down sink . It also was very hot . I had to take elbow apart and clean it out , run bleach solution down sink . That seemed to take care of problem . Now put some bleach solution every once in awhile in sink . If had running water with hookups there wasn't a problem . Now at home it also is becoming a problem if not much water is running down sink in effort to conserve . Not enough water to flush down drains I think . Pat
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Old 02-14-2016, 04:02 PM   #48
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Yes, you have to keep your p traps lubricated or switch to the Hepvo valve.
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Old 02-14-2016, 05:07 PM   #49
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In my Brewery I utilize a product called Iodophor. A water based iodine product. I much prefer this to chlorine / Clorox
as a sanitizer. Dr. Paul Stammets from fungi perfecti informed
us at a seminar that if you can see the amber color in the water
that there is enough concentration to achieve sanitation.
I am not certain how this affects biofilms that were previously
mentioned.

I do know that some municipalities use iodine based sanitation
for water systems.

It is great for sanitizing ss beer kegs and is a no rinse solution
when used in correct concentrations. I use it without fear.
I use it for shocking our house water well also.

It can however cause plastic vessels to obtain an amber tint.
YMMV
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Old 02-14-2016, 05:30 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thoer View Post
I think another problem with longer exposure to a bleach solution would be that it can damage some seals and especially rubber if left to soak for long periods.

And Glenn you're right - those are two reliable sources. I think the questions come from the fact that some sanitation concentrations mentioned are for food preparation surfaces rather than killing off the potential biofilms that can form in pipes and containers that are constantly moist. At least that's what I'm confused about.
Yes, they are no doubt often referring to institutional situations, large kitchens, hospitals. Where the concentration information regarding trailers is coming from, we do not know, but we know that only we use our trailers, not 1,000 or 100,000 people. We also know the climate where we are and how long we leave water in the tanks. Perhaps hot weather situations need more attention.

We carry gallons of water for drinking and some other uses.
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