Wheel Bearing Grease Seal Confusion - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 09-15-2017, 01:42 AM   #1
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Wheel Bearing Grease Seal Confusion

I'm doing the first repack of the wheel bearings on my 2015 19', and tired to source the Dexter 010-019-00 grease seals locally. The closest I could come was at NAPA, where the 010-019-00 cross-referenced to the SKF/NAPA 17144, which is double-lipped like the Dexter seal, but it's only 1/4" thick - not 1/2" thick like the Dexter. The NAPA guy mentioned that he had run into this before, and he dug up an SKF/NAPA 17146, which is 1/2" thick like the Dexter seal, but only single-lipped. The ID and OD dimensions are the same on all these seals - 1.719" ID and 2.565" OD.

I really want to stick with a double-lipped seal, given the leakage of the original Dexter seal (see pic) and the way it threw globs of grease around the inside of the brake assembly - I'm guessing that a single lip seal would allow even more leakage, maybe bad enough to get some on the brake lining. Anyhow, I need to get the trailer back on the ground and back to the storage lot soon (before my beloved Home Owner's Association comes after me for working on it in my driveway too much) and don't have time to order and wait for some official Dexter seals.

Has anyone out there run into this before? Any ideas?

I'm tentatively planning to go with the double-lipped 1/4" thick 17144's, given that the inboard lip is in the same relative position as on the Dexter seal, and the only apparent functional difference is that the outboard and inboard lips would be closer together.

Also, does anyone have a good method for removing the old seals? I tried all the usual tricks, and ended up using a slide hammer after pounding a radial deformation to relieve tension, and still had a heck of a time getting the original seals out. Dexter used some sort of yellow sealer/adhesive around the circumference which really seemed to lock them in tight.

Thanks...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg seals.jpg (237.0 KB, 41 views)
File Type: jpg grease.jpg (292.3 KB, 35 views)
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Old 09-15-2017, 08:03 AM   #2
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Going to auto parts stores for double lip seals have been a waste of time for me. I went a trailer parts store and found some double lips seals for the Dexter #10 axle when I need to get the wheels back on. Last year I ordered some OEM Dexter seals and other brand seals on line. The Dexter's were more expensive than the other seals but they were much better quality seals than I had found online or elsewhere. You get what you pay for. I have not had much luck saving double lip seals. I just keep four seals on hand in the shop and re order four more when I use them.
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Old 09-15-2017, 08:35 AM   #3
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Going to auto parts stores for double lip seals have been a waste of time for me. I went a trailer parts store and found some double lips seals for the Dexter #10 axle when I need to get the wheels back on. Last year I ordered some OEM Dexter seals and other brand seals on line. The Dexter's were more expensive than the other seals but they were much better quality seals than I had found online or elsewhere. You get what you pay for. I have not had much luck saving double lip seals. I just keep four seals on hand in the shop and re order four more when I use them.
Eddie
Dexter 1.72 in. ID Grease Seal #010-019-00
How did you identity the correct seal for your 21?
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Old 09-15-2017, 09:01 AM   #4
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ETI uses a Dexter #10 axle referred to as a 3.5K axle. The load capacity weight can be modified from 2.5K to 4K. I'm pretty sure the E 21's are de-rated to 2.5K but all parts are the same. Attached is someone's Dexter axle worksheet with all the Dexter numbers listed for a #10 axle.
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Old 09-15-2017, 11:00 AM   #5
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I had the same issues when inspecting/greasing the wheel bearings on our 2015 Escape 19. Used the SKF 17144 seals and have had no issues for 24,000 km(15,000 mi). Will inspect/replace bearings after one more trip this weekend. I also had a problem removing original seals. I don't have a slide hammer so a brass drift and ball peen hammer did the trick. Used a hockey puck to seat the new seals. Good luck.
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Old 09-15-2017, 12:24 PM   #6
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Bought Lippert 10 pack from Amazon for $30. Look same as Dexter seals.

Lippert 333961 RV and Trailer Axle Grease Seal 3500LB 1.719" ID 2.565" OD (10 pack)
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Old 03-28-2018, 01:20 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Great Eggstrications View Post
I'm doing the first repack of the wheel bearings on my 2015 19', and tired to source the Dexter 010-019-00 grease seals locally. The closest I could come was at NAPA, where the 010-019-00 cross-referenced to the SKF/NAPA 17144, which is double-lipped like the Dexter seal, but it's only 1/4" thick - not 1/2" thick like the Dexter. The NAPA guy mentioned that he had run into this before, and he dug up an SKF/NAPA 17146, which is 1/2" thick like the Dexter seal, but only single-lipped. The ID and OD dimensions are the same on all these seals - 1.719" ID and 2.565" OD.

I really want to stick with a double-lipped seal, given the leakage of the original Dexter seal (see pic) and the way it threw globs of grease around the inside of the brake assembly - I'm guessing that a single lip seal would allow even more leakage, maybe bad enough to get some on the brake lining. Anyhow, I need to get the trailer back on the ground and back to the storage lot soon (before my beloved Home Owner's Association comes after me for working on it in my driveway too much) and don't have time to order and wait for some official Dexter seals.

Has anyone out there run into this before? Any ideas?

I'm tentatively planning to go with the double-lipped 1/4" thick 17144's, given that the inboard lip is in the same relative position as on the Dexter seal, and the only apparent functional difference is that the outboard and inboard lips would be closer together.

Also, does anyone have a good method for removing the old seals? I tried all the usual tricks, and ended up using a slide hammer after pounding a radial deformation to relieve tension, and still had a heck of a time getting the original seals out. Dexter used some sort of yellow sealer/adhesive around the circumference which really seemed to lock them in tight.

Thanks...
Just pulled the wheels off my 2015 17B and like you was shocked at how badly the seals had leaked. Nothing on the shoes and drums, so at least they where OK. Going to the local RV dealership tomorrow and see what they have for seals. I did order some from ETI a month ago thinking they would be Dexter's but they weren't. They do seem OK, but we'll see what the dealership has. Like yours my seals were glued in place and a real pita to get out. The bearings are in good shape with lots of grease on them. So at least that part was good.
I'm temped to fill the grease cavity after installing the bearings using the "easy lube" zerk fitting. Has anyone done it, and what should I do or not do?
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Old 03-28-2018, 01:39 AM   #8
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I'm temped to fill the grease cavity after installing the bearings using the "easy lube" zerk fitting. Has anyone done it, and what should I do or not do?
I don't know if my experience applies, but, I pumped tons of grease into the cavity on my tent trailer, equipped with "Bearing Buddies".
The heated grease blew the caps off the wheels and threw blobs of grease all over the tires.
You only need enough grease to lube the bearings. I have no desire to install "Easy Lube" or to put my faith in them.
I'm sticking with a repack of the regular bearings every year or two.
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Old 03-28-2018, 03:58 AM   #9
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I had real good luck ordering 4 real Dexter 010-019-00 seals from Amazon - ordered Feb 17 and delivered Feb 18. Double lipped and 1/2" thick. I wanted to have a couple of them with me on the road if needed in desperation, and if not needed I'll have them in hand for re-packing next September. Looks like they came from Kent, WA, just down the road for me, which might explain the rapid delivery time - I didn't pay anything extra for speedy delivery (on a Sunday morning no less!) Don't know how it would work for you up in BC and over on the island, but if you're not in too much of a hurry I would suggest giving Amazon a shot.

As gbaglo suggests, don't fill the in-between-the-bearings-space with grease - it'll overheat and cause badness. Just a thin coating of grease in the in-between-the-bearings-space, and then a wedge around the inner circumference of the inner and outer bearing. I'd steer clear of the whole grease gun / zerk fitting business. And be sure to smear a little bit of grease on the seal lips so they don't get cooked running against bare metal.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And to (hopefully) avoid the seal removal pita debacle next time, I splurged on one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 03-28-2018, 05:22 AM   #10
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I don't know if my experience applies, but, I pumped tons of grease into the cavity on my tent trailer, equipped with "Bearing Buddies".
The heated grease blew the caps off the wheels and threw blobs of grease all over the tires.
You only need enough grease to lube the bearings. I have no desire to install "Easy Lube" or to put my faith in them.
I'm sticking with a repack of the regular bearings every year or two.
Hi: gbaglo... I'm sticking with my RV Tech. Just had the bearings re packed and brakes repaired (Bad ground...& broken wire) $40/ axle + $10. for 4 seals. Fridge wouldn't run on propane(Igniter wire leaking spark and orifice plugged) and I had him install a set of kitchen taps I bought years ago. Total bill including tx's $169.50. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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