Wheel Bearing Maintenance

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

The sockets I have are deep well, impact style. The 1/1/8 is big enough that it fully covers the bearing rim so the bearing does not get hurt as long as you have it centered. The next smaller socket lines up nicely with the first one so a few taps with the hammer and the seal and rear bearing drop out on the piece of cardboard you put down first to keep grease off the floor.

Have to look but I think I have . Seal puller ? Pat

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by thoer

I hope Reace is reading this thread as it could make my job of trying to convince him to start using the NevRLube axles easier

Unfortunately, it is not available in the axle size they use.

[Iowa Dave]

I have never used a seal puller. We always just replaced them. The bearing usually drives them out without visible damage but that is not to say that the rubber might not be roughed up, split or have "taken a set" that would end up seeping some grease if reinstalled. The eight I saved ( yes I'm a hoarder) all look good and I would trust them as a spare in an emergency as I wiped them down and examined them closely. Always new cotter keys too.
Dave

[thoer]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Unfortunately, it is not available in the axle size they use.

Jim from the Dexter site I thought it was , that it just used a different bolt diameter pattern wheel?

[bisonbill]

I was planning on doing the first bearing repack this spring. But this thread has got me wondering about the part number for the bearing seal. Short of calling Escape, is there some way of figuring out the make and model for the axle and ultimately for the bearing seal?

(My real question - Anybody know the axles that were standard on a 21 in early 2014?)

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by thoer

Jim from the Dexter site I thought it was , that it just used a different bolt diameter pattern wheel?

I haven't looked on the Dexter site, just going from what Reace said.

[thoer]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I haven't looked on the Dexter site, just going from what Reace said.

I wonder if he meant wheels rather than the axles? But he would surely know more than I can determine from the Dexter site

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

I have never used a seal puller. We always just replaced them. The bearing usually drives them out without visible damage but that is not to say that the rubber might not be roughed up, split or have "taken a set" that would end up seeping some grease if reinstalled. The eight I saved ( yes I'm a hoarder) all look good and I would trust them as a spare in an emergency as I wiped them down and examined them closely. Always new cotter keys too.
Dave

OK Dave . Can remember most of this from doing my bearings on my 1964 Chevy in 70's . Will see if I can tap out seals before I buy the seal puller then . Thanks again . Pat

[Iowa Dave]

They haven't changed much over the years. I learned on my 1954 boat trailer when I was 16 and they pretty much look the same.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

They haven't changed much over the years. I learned on my 1954 boat trailer when I was 16 and they pretty much look the same.

Pat

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I have one trailer that came with a paper copy of the Dexter Axle service manual, which presumably came with the axle. Lots of paper comes with the components that go into an RV; not all of it makes it to the RV buyer, and there are probably fewer manuals included with components than there used to me.

You can definitely download anything you need (product catalogs, application guides, service information, parts diagrams and lists) from Dexter Axle... but if you want it on paper you'll have to do some printing.


Just keep in mind that different types and brands of sockets for the same nut/bolt head size can have different outside diameters, so just use whatever fits best.

Brian what am I doing wrong went to Dexter link and cannot find the 2500 lb axle information ? Pat

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

I have never used a seal puller. We always just replaced them. The bearing usually drives them out without visible damage but that is not to say that the rubber might not be roughed up, split or have "taken a set" that would end up seeping some grease if reinstalled. The eight I saved ( yes I'm a hoarder) all look good and I would trust them as a spare in an emergency as I wiped them down and examined them closely. Always new cotter keys too.
Dave

Always best to replace seals; rubber breaks down and hard to see. Cotter pins aren't used on newer axles.

[Iowa Dave]

I have only our 2010 to go by. I have experienced other spindle nut detention setups but haven't taken a dust cap off of anything newer that a 2010. I fully agree that new seals ought to always be used. I've been in situations where people could be helped by used parts in a tight spot. That's why I keep old stuff. I have the room. The seals I just removed were 2 years old and "looked" ok. Hope I never need them but would not hesitate to use them to get down off the mountain. I have a set of four Model A pistons, .060 over that I doubt I'll have a use for. They are new in the box. You never know.
Dave

[Rossue]

Gotch- Murphy's Law comes to mind there; if you have it you likely won't need it. Don't have it, might wish you did

[gbaglo]

I threw out seven seat belts for a VW bus.
Then we had a kid and needed a belt to secure the car seat in the back of the Nissan pickup. Cost me $50.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by thoer

A buddy bought my '90 Corolla wagon and it made it to almost 300k miles before the frame rusted out. I'm pretty sure he never had to replace a rear wheel bearing on it or knowing him he would have complained to me about it.

I'm not surprised... but I don't think that particular car is likely to be a good example. The wagon might be an exception, but an aftermarket source of rear wheel bearings for a 1990 Corolla show a typical modern sealed "unit bearing" (hub, spindle with mounting flange, and sealed bearings), rather than the old rebuildable system like the trailers (any my 1984 Tercel). I never ditch a car at less than a quarter million kilometres, and I have yet to need to replace one of these unit bearings.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by thoer

I hope Reace is reading this thread as it could make my job of trying to convince him to start using the NevRLube axles easier

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Unfortunately, it is not available in the axle size they use.

Originally Posted by thoer

Jim from the Dexter site I thought it was , that it just used a different bolt diameter pattern wheel?

If you look at Dexter Axle's catalog section for 2300-4000 pound capacity axles, which includes the Torflex #10, you'll see in diagrams with part number listings for the Torflex #10 (and the D35 beam axle used under the current 5.0TA):

• D35, #10 545 and Other Hub Group (page 25) - the hub with regular grease lubed bearings
• 655 Nev-R-Lube Hub Group (page 27) - the hub with sealed bearings

Dexter uses a shorthand for the bolt pattern to describe hubs: "545" is 5 bolts on a 4.5" circle (the typical pattern for this capacity of axle, used on many cars and trucks for decades, and the one used by Escape), while "655" is 6 bolts on a 5.5" circle (common for the next size larger axles, and also common on light trucks). The Nev-R-Lube comes only in the larger bolt pattern because both the flange to which the wheel bolts, and the bearings, are in the centre plane of the wheel... the bolt pattern must be large enough to go around the bearings, and 4.5" won't do it.

I agree with Eric. Using the Nev-R-Lube hub would mean switching to 6-on-5.5" wheels; this probably wasn't possible for the 14" wheels that Escape originally used (because it would be strange to use such a large hub with such small tires), but eTrailer lists 18 wheels with 15" diameter and the 6-on-5.5" pattern (for the tires now used).

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Brian what am I doing wrong went to Dexter link and cannot find the 2500 lb axle information ? Pat

Don't look for a 2500 lb axle - look for the first one higher than that, which can be derated to 2500 pounds. That's the Torflex #10 (maximum capacity 3500 pounds).

Here's the right document and the hub diagram page:

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

If you look at Dexter Axle's catalog section for 2300-4000 pound capacity axles, which includes the Torflex #10, you'll see in diagrams with part number listings for the Torflex #10 (and the D35 beam axle used under the current 5.0TA):

• D35, #10 545 and Other Hub Group (page 25) - the hub with regular grease lubed bearings

...

I see that they list only one grease seal (item 1, their part # 010-019-00), which is noted as being for E-Z Lube. It looks like they have standardized on that seal.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Don't look for a 2500 lb axle - look for the first one higher than that, which can be derated to 2500 pounds. That's the Torflex #10 (maximum capacity 3500 pounds).

Here's the right document and the hub diagram page:

I see that they list only one grease seal (item 1, their part # 010-019-00), which is noted as being for E-Z Lube. It looks like they have standardized on that seal.

Pat

[Kountrykamper]

Originally Posted by bisonbill

I was planning on doing the first bearing repack this spring. But this thread has got me wondering about the part number for the bearing seal. Short of calling Escape, is there some way of figuring out the make and model for the axle and ultimately for the bearing seal?

(My real question - Anybody know the axles that were standard on a 21 in early 2014?)

From ETI

The axle on the 19’ Escape is Dexter, Number 10 and rated for 2500 pounds. This is the most common axle in North America. There are many different manufacturers of the seals and bearings, and each company has their own part numbers. When you need to purchase these items, just let them know that your axle is Number 10 and 2500 pounds, and they will know what you need.

Please feel free to forward any other questions you may have.

Best regards,

Rae Warren, Parts and Service


I found Timken Made in USA bearings on Amazon.

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