Winterized BlackJack today.... - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 10-31-2014, 08:49 AM   #11
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On our 2008 5.0 Classic, the low point drain has a nylon screw in plug. We really like having it. Our previous Scamp did not.
We just winterized our Escape this week. It was pretty easy. Made sure the hot water bypass was set to prevent water into the heater. Ran the hot water heater pump a few seconds to clear out any water there but we hadn't used it this season so didn't expect and didn't get any water out. We also opened the fresh water tank drain but since we hadn't used that either, it was empty.
Opened the low point drain and all the faucets. Tilted the trailer nose way up and left it for a few minutes. Then way down for a few minutes. Got some water in each direction. Once it stopped dripping we closed the low point drain.

Then hooked up the compressor and blew out the system with all the faucets and outside shower open and operated the toilet several times. Got a good deal of water out especially from the toilet.

Next we used a Camco hand pump system to pump antifreeze through the city water inlet out through all the faucets, the toilet and the outside shower. This was very convenient and easy.

We then poured extra antifreeze into each drain (sinks and shower) for the p traps and about a half a jug into the black water tank.

Having read the discussion about anti-freeze 'slush' we checked our bottle and it said it might turn to slush at 0 degrees. We don't usually get that low, but we might leave our faucets open in that circumstance just to be safe and allow some space for slushy expansion...if we remember. All in all we used 1 gallon of antifreeze and it took about 1/2 hour. Having two people working on it speeds up the process and makes it a lot easier!
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Old 10-31-2014, 09:09 AM   #12
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My 2013 19 does have a low-point drain... As FMLNM says, it's a nylon screw-in plug. Situation right beside the drain plug on the fresh water tank (which puts it pretty much right under the pump and water heater).
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Old 10-31-2014, 09:33 AM   #13
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The one time I tried blowing after a thorough draining using the low-point drain, I got not much more than a spittle of water, not enough to cause any damage. Maybe it is how my lines are run? So I have for the last 5 winters skipped blowing out the lines, or adding any antifreeze to them. I just displace the water in the traps with the antifreeze. Of course, this only works with the 2013 and older trailers.

It takes me less than 10 minutes to winterize.
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Old 10-31-2014, 10:26 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
The one time I tried blowing after a thorough draining using the low-point drain, I got not much more than a spittle of water, not enough to cause any damage. Maybe it is how my lines are run? So I have for the last 5 winters skipped blowing out the lines, or adding any antifreeze to them. I just displace the water in the traps with the antifreeze. Of course, this only works with the 2013 and older trailers.

It takes me less than 10 minutes to winterize.
I also get very little water from anything after using the low point drain, however I still use air pressure to finish the process. I made an air line to city water adapter so I can leave the compressor running while going from faucet to faucet. Like Jim, the only place I use antifreeze is in the drains.

One interesting note - when I drained the water heater, the anode was down to just wire. I checked it before I left on my trip last October, and there was about 3/4 left. A good reason to pull the plug on the water heater...
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Old 10-31-2014, 10:57 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
One interesting note - when I drained the water heater, the anode was down to just wire. I checked it before I left on my trip last October, and there was about 3/4 left. A good reason to pull the plug on the water heater...
That sounded unusual to me, but in reading further, it seems that places like Camping World recommend that the anode be checked every 3 months -- so not unusual at all.
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Old 10-31-2014, 11:10 AM   #16
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I don't have the low point drain on my 2013 19'. I do blow out the lines with air and get a fair amount of water (more than the spittle that Jim B reports). This year, took about 15 minutes to winterize including draining hot water tank, blowing out freshwater lines with air, and putting rv antifreeze down the drains.

When winterizing, don't forget to drain the water from your external shower hoses.

If using air to blow out your lines, make sure to buy or make one of these:

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Old 10-31-2014, 11:43 AM   #17
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[QUOTE=cpaharley2008;71548] I opened all my taped holes but Reace said it wasn't necessary. [QUOTE]

Thanks Jim, (and all) you are a wealth of info!

Have you put a screen on your weep holes? Bees seem to find little homes like that around here.

Do you understand why they were drilled and then taped over? Is that so we can check them occasionally?

In a heavy rain I would expect some water to spray up into those holes which will result in rot over time. I am thinking a screwing in a small drain plug (or screen).

Are you folks leaving yours open (any clever ideas)?

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Old 10-31-2014, 11:57 AM   #18
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Is it possible to retro-fit a low point drain on a 21? Our 17b had a low point drain, and I felt that it eased the winterizing process, and gave me more confidence that I had eliminated water in the supply lines.

The 21 doesn't have a low point drain, but if I could figure out a way to add one, especially with the foam on the bottom, I would sure like to give it a try.

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Old 10-31-2014, 11:57 AM   #19
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[QUOTE=Klem;71568][QUOTE=cpaharley2008;71548] I opened all my taped holes but Reace said it wasn't necessary.
Quote:

Thanks Jim, (and all) you are a wealth of info!

Have you put a screen on your weep holes? Bees seem to find little homes like that around here.

Do you understand why they were drilled and then taped over? Is that so we can check them occasionally?

In a heavy rain I would expect some water to spray up into those holes which will result in rot over time. I am thinking a screwing in a small drain plug (or screen).

Are you folks leaving yours open (any clever ideas)?

Mel K
There is nothing to rot, no wood gets wet, if you feel around the perimeter of your trailer inside your hatch cover you can feel the depression. The floor is encapsulated with the fiberglass. No worries, nothing to do, maintenance free.
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Old 10-31-2014, 12:04 PM   #20
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Leon,
I would assume you would do more harm than good, the grey tank is in that area I mentioned plus all that foam. I'd try tilting the trailer like mentioned above and pump it out.
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