WINTERIZING: updated Oct. 29, 2013 - Page 3 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 10-31-2013, 04:21 PM   #21
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One note on using the compressed air method, do not go above 45 psi and use an "oil free" compressor. Some compressors use oil to lubricate the air tools, this you do not want inside your water lines.
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Old 10-31-2013, 04:26 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
One note on using the compressed air method, do not go above 45 psi and use an "oil free" compressor. Some compressors use oil to lubricate the air tools, this you do not want inside your water lines.
Unless of course you lubricate your compressor lines and air tools with cod liver oil. Then, drinking from your faucets would have an added health benefit.
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Old 10-31-2013, 05:16 PM   #23
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Escape instructions say 30 P.S.I.
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Old 10-31-2013, 05:51 PM   #24
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Most rv water pressure regulators operate in the 40-50 psi range, that is where I got my number from.
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Old 11-01-2013, 07:02 PM   #25
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I see that they are now giving what I would call the old directions from other places to just put anti-freeze into the fresh water tank.

Glenn, you said on another thread with your photo what can be done so as not to have anti-freeze in the fresh water tank. RV shops sell hand pumps that come with tubing and a threaded connection for the city water fill.

A gallon of anti-freeze can go into the toilet first and lesser amounts into the shower and sink drains. Then it is easy to use the hand pump to pump anti-freeze out of a jug into the city water fill with bath taps open until the liquid is pink. Next pump anti-freeze into the toilet with valve open until pink appears, adding a little with value shut. Lastly, pump more with kitchen taps open until pink appears.

Takes a few minutes and you don't have anti-freeze in the fresh water tank to deal with later.



[QUOTE=gbaglo;35697]Winterizing Your Water System

WINTERIZING WITH ANTIFREEZE ONLY

WARNING: NEVER USE AUTOMOTIVE ANITFREEZE IN YOUR FRESH WATER SYSTEM. AUTOMOTIVE ANITFREEZE IS TOXIC AND NOT FOR USE IN POTABLE (DRINKABLE) WATER SYSTEMS.
Purchase 4-6 gallons of RV approved, non-toxic antifreeze.
1.) Drain the fresh water tank and empty the waste water holding tanks.
2.) Turn water heater bypass valves to ‘bypass’ position.
3.) Drain the water heater by removing the anode (1-1/16” Socket Wrench) and opening taps. Flush out sediment build-up in water heater if necessary. Reinstall hot water tank plug with new Teflon tape.
4.) Fill the tank above minimum water pump operation level with the RV antifreeze. (Use of a long funnel may be helpful.)
5.) Turn the pump switch ‘ON’ and open the cold water side of all faucet fixtures. Leave the faucets open until the antifreeze, (generally pink in color), flows out of the faucets and shower heads. Repeat for the hot water side.
6.) Flush toilet until antifreeze is visible inside the bowl and pour one gallon of antifreeze down the toilet to winterize the black holding tank.
7.) Pour antifreeze down sink and shower drains to fill p-traps.
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Old 11-01-2013, 07:18 PM   #26
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I agree. I use a hand pump through city water connection.
Must remember to bypass the water heater.

The instructions I posted are what's on the Escape Industries site.
I went over them with Tammy, emailing back and forth until we got what was posted.
As noted, it doesn't address the hand pump method. I'll try to get that addressed, but I do want the instructions vetted by Escape before posting.
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Old 11-01-2013, 07:27 PM   #27
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Good idea to add hand pump direction.

I should have mentioned turning the two valves to bypass the hot water tank before adding anti-freeze. In our 19', they are located under the bed.
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Old 11-01-2013, 07:49 PM   #28
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Actually, Camco has illustrated step-by-step winterizing instructions here:

http://www.camco.net/assets/catalog/winterizeRV.pdf
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Old 11-02-2013, 05:02 PM   #29
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Glenn,
Do you want to post this information under systems info part of the forum for reference?
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Old 11-03-2013, 12:09 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ice-breaker View Post
Yea, it started out looking like this one:

So I drilled the top out and installed a quick connect coupler that works with my compressor.
That makes sense, but if you're not going to use the tire valve anyway, you may be able to start with a garden hose threaded plug, which is just the white plastic part (if the one you find has enough thickness to thread into).
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