WINTERIZING: updated Oct. 29, 2013 - Page 4 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 11-08-2013, 06:17 PM   #31
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Another Way To Build A Better Mouse Trap

Hey All ,

I looked at the offerings for putting clean 30PSI air through your water systems. The Camco plastic plug was a PITA you need two people. Ice breaker did a nice cheap mod to it to make it plug and play though, it does not address clean air ( No Contaminates ) nor pressure regulation. You can regulate the pressure at the compressor but unless you have a filter on the outbound at the tank for removing water and oil you still have a problem. The plug shown by Gbalo is a nice option one piece construction but you still have the pressure and contaminate problem. My Shop compressor is a dual tank design with water separator and oil injector set at 90 psi or higher since all of my stuff runs that way. I am not as old as some here but I know me I would forget to reduce air pressure and disconnect the oil injector which is a PITA. So I came up with the system shown here all told it is about 30 bucks in parts some Teflon tape with some O.E / B. E wrenches or even two adjustable wrenches if that's all you have. Please note the pictures show the parts in two ways. I was not happy with the first method as it put a lot of weight on the connector and by default the water connection. I had the hose you see in the second setup laying around it is a spare hose for an HVLP spray gun costs about 15 bucks last time I bought one. The weight then stays on the ground mostly and it is easier to adjust the pressure with out contortions. If you have questions ask I tried to make sure you could see the part numbers I used. The blue canister is an air/oil filter used for spray guns and the knob / gauge assembly is also for spray guns all the parts came from LOWES.

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IMG_20131108_173221.jpg

Cypher
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Old 11-08-2013, 06:43 PM   #32
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Interesting setup, Cypher. Should work good. Is the filter is to remove the oil injected in your lines?

As a bit of an aside. I took my oiler off the compressor in my shop, as it tainted too much wood. I went back to just adding a drop or two in my tools every once in a while. If you aren't doing woodworking, then the oil is not much of an issue. I do still use the water separator though.
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Old 11-08-2013, 06:50 PM   #33
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Interesting setup, Cypher. Should work good. Is the filter is to remove the oil injected in your lines?

As a bit of an aside. I took my oiler off the compressor in my shop, as it tainted too much wood. I went back to just adding a drop or two in my tools every once in a while. If you aren't doing woodworking, then the oil is not much of an issue. I do still use the water separator though.
Hey Jim,

Yes the filter removes oil and water from the supply line, I do mainly metal work and with a lot of my high speed cutters, grinders and such a few drops here and there works though some of mine require constant oil atomized into the air feed. I have 15k Rpm pencil grinders an 20k Rpm abrasive wheel cutters. Most of my wood working stuff is electric except my nail guns and I am definitely not in your class of wood working :} Now you want to do metal work I got you covered :}

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Old 11-08-2013, 07:04 PM   #34
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Should I be confident that my 6 gal. Porter-Cable compressor is really "oil-less"?
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Old 11-08-2013, 07:08 PM   #35
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If you do not have an oil injector it most likely does not have oil coming out in the air though, there may be a very small amount. Check your manual.

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Old 11-08-2013, 07:18 PM   #36
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Now you want to do metal work I got you covered :}
Would love to have the time to do that too. Too bad your shop was not on the same street as mine.
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Should I be confident that my 6 gal. Porter-Cable compressor is really "oil-less"?
Like Cypher said, you will be good.
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Old 11-10-2013, 07:21 PM   #37
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Hi there,
My husband and I just winterized our trailer using the instructions for Method Two on page 13 of the Escape Manual that came with our trailer. It calls for doing all the necessary draining of water and then step 9, which is "Pour 2 liters of RV anti-freeze into the toilet holding tank. Pour 1 liter down the kitchen sink drain, and pour 1 liter down the shower drain."

Are these instructions in the manual no longer valid? Does too much water still remain in the system if we do the draining without blowing out the lines?

I'm confused!
Lisa

...okay now I see the other post from Reace about winterizing and it looks like their instructions have been updated. If we don't blow out the lines do we risk cracking a toilet valve or other damage if we don't run antifreeze through all the lines? Can someone recommend a hand pump (?) for drawing antifreeze through without putting it in the fresh water tank and using the water pump?

I'm grateful for any help!
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:25 PM   #38
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Did you remove the outside water fill and push the little button? By pass the water heater and remove the plug? Run the pump a little? flush toilet to remove any water there? disconnect the shower head? Otherwise you maybe good.
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:08 PM   #39
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Yes, Jim, we did all of those things! Were you the one that had the toilet valve leak?
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:05 AM   #40
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At some point and there is no way of telling by looking, the valve in the toilet was changed by Thetford without them telling anybody. It made for a quieter valve, but one that retains water, so it wouldn't drain using the low-point valve method.
Which is why Escape recommends blowing out the lines with compressed air ( which would include opening the toilet valve ) or by pumping anti-freeze through the lines ( including the toilet valve ).

As for the hand pump to pump anti-freeze through the city water inlet look up Camco RV anti-freeze hand pump or go here: Plastic Winterizing Hand Pump Kit - Camco 36003 - Winterizing - Camping World
The Camco site has step-by-step illustrated instructions.
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