WINTERIZING: updated Oct. 29, 2013 - Page 5 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 11-11-2013, 12:07 AM   #41
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Camco has illustrated step-by-step winterizing instructions here:

http://www.camco.net/assets/catalog/winterizeRV.pdf
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Old 11-11-2013, 10:20 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
Camco has illustrated step-by-step winterizing instructions here:

http://www.camco.net/assets/catalog/winterizeRV.pdf

The following link goes to a quite entertaining video on using the Camco pump to winterize...
Plastic Winterizing Hand Pump Kit - Camco 36003 - Winterizing - Camping World
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Old 09-28-2014, 09:24 AM   #43
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Camco has illustrated step-by-step winterizing instructions here:

http://www.camco.net/assets/catalog/winterizeRV.pdf
The Camco instructions differ from the ETI instructions. Camco says to pump antifreeze through the system after blowing out lines, and to leave the water heater drain plug open.
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Old 09-28-2014, 10:36 AM   #44
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The Camco instructions differ from the ETI instructions. Camco says to pump antifreeze through the system after blowing out lines, and to leave the water heater drain plug open.
Like anything, there are many ways to skin a cat. Just so long as you don't have enough water in your system anywhere, that when it freezes causes damage due to expansion.

Why bother blowing out the lines, if you are going to put antifreeze in them, as it will push the water out. And, does it really matter if the anode is back in the water heater if it is completely drained?

In the end, it comes down to what a person is comfortable with. The only time I have ever had an issue myself, it was due to a brain fart, and forgetting to clear the toilet valve.
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Old 09-28-2014, 10:41 AM   #45
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Jim, I agree. Why should one have to blow out the lines after draining water taps and low point drains? Doesn't the pumped in antifreeze displace any residual water that my be left in the lines?
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Old 09-28-2014, 11:40 AM   #46
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Why blow out the lines if you're going to use antifreeze anyways? I suppose, like most such questions, it might come down to how fussy or how cautious you are...

The freezing point of antifreeze depends on the concentration of the antifreeze. Dilute it with a little water, and the freezing point rises. So if you push antifreeze through with water still in the lines, the antifreeze might get a little diluted and it might raise the freezing point.

Enough to matter? I doubt it, but I don't know. I can certainly imagine a little eddy in a corner of the toilet valve where water collects but doesn't easily get flushed out.
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Old 09-28-2014, 12:00 PM   #47
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Antifreeze for the fresh water tank? Does that mean brands like Old Crow, Jim Beam, etc?
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Old 09-28-2014, 12:19 PM   #48
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I've read a few posts from people who have had toilet valves crack.

My understanding is that the way to deal with the toilet valve, if you're winterizing by blowing out with an air compressor, is to hold the toilet valve open while blowing air through the lines ( I think this just means pulling on the 'flushing handle'?). This will blow out any water remaining in the new type of valve?
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Old 09-28-2014, 01:04 PM   #49
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I agree with Doug - the less water which is in the plumbing before pumping in antifreeze, the less risk there is of inadequate protection... or the less antifreeze is wasted flushing it through until there isn't any more water in the mix.
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Old 09-28-2014, 01:06 PM   #50
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The way I figure is: after draining all water out of system through taps, hot water heater and low point drain by using water pump, by pass hot water heater, add pink RV Antifreeze, turn on each tap one at a time, shower heads one at a time and flush toilet until pink fluid runs freely. I doubt very much, if any, water will remain to dilute the antifreeze.
RV Antifreeze is not very expensive when you really think about it.
At HomeDepot it costs $8.47 for 9.46 L
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