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Old 09-28-2014, 08:01 PM   #61
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The specs on the Black and Decker Air Station say maximum pressure is 160 psi.
So, when is that attained? From the moment you turn it on, or after a few minutes in a closed system?
No matter, I'm off to buy RV antifreeze tomorrow.
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Old 09-28-2014, 09:28 PM   #62
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The specs on the Black and Decker Air Station say maximum pressure is 160 psi.
So, when is that attained? From the moment you turn it on, or after a few minutes in a closed system?
After an amount of time depending on the volume of the closed system into which it is pumping. It could be a lot more than a few minutes with a large volume, but a trailer is likely much less volume that a tire, so maybe a few minutes is a reasonable guess.
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Old 09-28-2014, 11:41 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
I usually use a regulated air compressor set at 40 PSI to blow out my water lines, however I have used a 12V tire pump. The one I used has a gauge, but no regulator. If you attach it to the fresh water inlet, you have to watch the gauge to be sure you don't go over 50 PSI.
I wonder if a common RV water pressure regulator (I have an adjustable one with a gauge) would work with air?
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:25 AM   #64
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Winterizing Your Water System


WATER SYSTEM WINTERIZATION

When storing your recreational vehicle through periods of freezing weather, in an unheated environment, it will be necessary to winterize the water system. Damage to water system components will result if the proper winterization steps are not taken.
NOTE: Before using the compressed air method, you will need a special adapter known as a blowout plug. This plug allows compressed air to be delivered through the city water fill. This small, inexpensive adapter is available at most RV supply stores.

WINTERIZING WITH COMPRESSED AIR

Purchase 2 gallons of RV non-toxic antifreeze.
1.) Drain the fresh water tank and empty the waste water holding tanks.
2.) Turn the 2 water heater bypass valves to the ‘bypass’ position. (The valves are located near the water heater incoming lines at the rear of the water heater.)
3.) Drain the water heater by removing the anode (1-1/16” Socket Wrench) and opening taps. Flush out sediment build-up in water heater if necessary. Reinstall hot water tank plug with new Teflon tape.
4.) Open all faucets, including shower head sprayer, (if applicable), toilet flushing device and any other water lines that are closed.
5.) Turn on the water pump for at least 30 seconds to clear any water from the lines.
7.) Connect an air hose with an adapter (blow out plug) to the city water fill connection.
8.) Set the pressure to no greater than 30# (pounds) and blow out the water lines until no water can be seen coming out of the fixtures and lines.
9.) Pour antifreeze down sink and shower drains to fill p-traps.
NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THE WATER HEATER OR USE THE PLUMBING SYSTEM AFTER THE SYSTEM HAS BEEN WINTERIZED. DEWINTERIZE, FLUSH AND SANITIZE THE WATER SYSTEM PRIOR TO USE.


WINTERIZING WITH ANTIFREEZE ONLY

WARNING: NEVER USE AUTOMOTIVE ANITFREEZE IN YOUR FRESH WATER SYSTEM. AUTOMOTIVE ANITFREEZE IS TOXIC AND NOT FOR USE IN POTABLE (DRINKABLE) WATER SYSTEMS.
Purchase 4-6 gallons of RV approved, non-toxic antifreeze.
1.) Drain the fresh water tank and empty the waste water holding tanks.
2.) Turn water heater bypass valves to ‘bypass’ position.
3.) Drain the water heater by removing the anode (1-1/16” Socket Wrench) and opening taps. Flush out sediment build-up in water heater if necessary. Reinstall hot water tank plug with new Teflon tape.
4.) Fill the tank above minimum water pump operation level with the RV antifreeze. (Use of a long funnel may be helpful.)
5.) Turn the pump switch ‘ON’ and open the cold water side of all faucet fixtures. Leave the faucets open until the antifreeze, (generally pink in color), flows out of the faucets and shower heads. Repeat for the hot water side.
6.) Flush toilet until antifreeze is visible inside the bowl and pour one gallon of antifreeze down the toilet to winterize the black holding tank.
7.) Pour antifreeze down sink and shower drains to fill p-traps.

DEWINTERIZING YOUR RV

NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TURN ON THE WATER HEATER OR USE THE PLUMBING SYSTEM ONCE THE SYSTEM HAS BEEN WINTERIZED. DEWINTERIZE THE WATER SYSTEM, FLUSH AND SANITIZE PRIOR TO USE.
1.) Drain all holding tanks, (fresh water and sewage).
2.) Attach garden hose to fresh water fill and fill tank.
3.) Turn ‘ON’ pump switch and open cold water side of all faucet/shower fixtures. Leave open until the water runs clear, (no pink residue). Repeat for the hot water side.
4.) Flush toilet until clear water runs into bowl.
5.) Dump tanks again.
6.) Sanitize the water system.
7.) If a water filter has been installed, drain the lines, remove the assembly, clean and reinstall using a new filter.
8.) When ready to use the water heater, turn by-pass valve to open position to allow water to enter and fill the hot water heater tank.
Anyone else "get a bath" when removing the anode? What did I do wrong? When I followed the instructions for the compressed air method, I got to "Drain the water heater by removing the anode (1-1/16” Socket Wrench) and opening taps." I just about got knocked onto my butt with the stream of water coming out of the plug. Luckily, the water wasn't hot, but what did I do wrong? As always, thanks for everyone's help when us "newbies" ask these questions!
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Old 10-20-2014, 11:30 AM   #65
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Kevin - did you open the taps first or pull the anode first? If anode first there could still be pressure in the lines that pushed the water out. I had that happen once when I pulled the anode before draining out all the lines. Also, pushing that little pressure release valve under the filter screen on the city water inlet helps.

But all that said, the water still comes our pretty quickly when you first pull the anode.
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Old 10-20-2014, 11:53 AM   #66
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I use this method...
WINTERIZING WITH COMPRESSED AIR
Purchase 2 gallons of RV non-toxic antifreeze.

1.) Drain the fresh water tank and empty the waste water holding tanks.
2.) Turn the water heater bypass valve to the ‘bypass’ position. (This valve is located near the water heater incoming lines at the rear of the water heater.)
3.) Drain the water heater.
4.) Open all faucets, including shower head sprayer, (if applicable), toilet flushing device and any other water lines that are closed.
5.) Turn on the water pump for at least 30 seconds to clear any water from the lines.
7.) Connect an air hose with an adapter (blow out plug) to the city water fill connection.
8.) Set the pressure to no greater than 30# (pounds) and blow out the water lines until no water can be seen coming out of the fixtures and lines.
9.) Pour antifreeze down sink and shower drains to fill p-traps.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg winteriz2.jpg (117.0 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg compressr.jpg (136.0 KB, 16 views)
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:46 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
I use this method...
WINTERIZING WITH COMPRESSED AIR
Purchase 2 gallons of RV non-toxic antifreeze.

1.) Drain the fresh water tank and empty the waste water holding tanks.
2.) Turn the water heater bypass valve to the ‘bypass’ position. (This valve is located near the water heater incoming lines at the rear of the water heater.)
3.) Drain the water heater.
4.) Open all faucets, including shower head sprayer, (if applicable), toilet flushing device and any other water lines that are closed.
5.) Turn on the water pump for at least 30 seconds to clear any water from the lines.
7.) Connect an air hose with an adapter (blow out plug) to the city water fill connection.
8.) Set the pressure to no greater than 30# (pounds) and blow out the water lines until no water can be seen coming out of the fixtures and lines.
9.) Pour antifreeze down sink and shower drains to fill p-traps.
Thanks. If you notice, #3 is to drain water heater and #4 is open all faucets. I'll try reversing next time. I wish someone had a video running when this happened. I was covered from head to toe with water and flat on my back! (not sure if from thewater pressure or from the shock of it!) It was really funny, but could have been bad if the water was hot. I will be camping for New Years at Hunting Island State Park (SC) and will have to "re-winterize" before returning to the mountains. I want to do it right! Thanks.
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:51 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by kstock11 View Post
Anyone else "get a bath" when removing the anode? What did I do wrong? When I followed the instructions for the compressed air method, I got to "Drain the water heater by removing the anode (1-1/16” Socket Wrench) and opening taps." I just about got knocked onto my butt with the stream of water coming out of the plug.
I notice that the instructions for using compressed air do not say to turn the water pump off as the first step - perhaps this is assumed.

If you turned the bypass valves as directed, there would be no pressure from the water pump or the air compresser to push water out the of heater... but there would still probably be trapped air under pressure in the top of the heater. I agree with Eric's suggestions, to
  • open the relief valve before removing the anode, or
  • relieve the pressure in the hot water system by opening any hot faucet after the pump is turned off and before closing the bypass valves.
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:56 PM   #69
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I've not had your experience in six years. The water does come out with some force - enough to project two feet from the trailer. You do have to move aside or get wet.
If you open the pressure relief valve it will come out with more force - so I don't do that.
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Old 10-20-2014, 01:03 PM   #70
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BTW. This is the pressure relief valve open ( with city water connected ). Purpose of doing that is to ensure the water heater is full and it expels air at the top of the tank.
First picture is open, second is closed.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg anode relief valve open.jpg (172.0 KB, 48 views)
File Type: jpg anode relief valve.jpg (178.6 KB, 38 views)
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