WINTERIZING: updated Oct. 29, 2013 - Page 8 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 10-20-2014, 01:10 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
I notice that the instructions for using compressed air do not say to turn the water pump off as the first step - perhaps this is assumed.
It's sure assumed by me. I only turn the pump on when I need water while camping ( and I turn it off after using the faucet ). I certainly wouldn't have the pump turned on while driving or with the trailer sitting in the driveway, waiting for the next trip.

Anyway, the anode is at the bottom of the water heater. If you open the taps or the relief valve, the water will drain more quickly because air is allowed in the top. Remember as a kid filling a glass with water and placing a piece of cardboard on top, then inverting the glass and the water doesn't come out because no air is getting in?
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Old 10-20-2014, 03:09 PM   #72
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Just to be different, I use the HW bypass, drain the HW tank, use the winterizing connection and run antifreeze in via the pump, after getting the pink at all the spigots and the toilet I blow it out. Takes about a gallon, it all ends up in the traps and beyond. Had the shower fixture freeze and crack one year when I left the antifreeze in. From what I've heard, in cold weather the antifreeze will turn to slush, must have been enough to crack the plastic shower control.
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Old 10-20-2014, 03:30 PM   #73
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Bob, why bother with the antifreeze if you are blowing out the lines?
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:38 PM   #74
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It's sure assumed by me. I only turn the pump on when I need water while camping ( and I turn it off after using the faucet ). I certainly wouldn't have the pump turned on while driving or with the trailer sitting in the driveway, waiting for the next trip.?
Agreed. Just establishing a common understanding and avoiding the possibility of someone trying to relieve water heater tank pressure with the pump running.

I don't see any need to turn the pump off after each faucet use (and thus back on every time I want to use a faucet)... just at the end of each day and before towing... but that doesn't matter to winterizing.

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Anyway, the anode is at the bottom of the water heater. If you open the taps or the relief valve, the water will drain more quickly because air is allowed in the top.
Yes, but opening a tap won't help if the water heater is bypassed, leaving only the relief valve to let in air.
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:41 PM   #75
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Anyway, I think the OP was trying to reduce the flow pressure and I don't know how you would do that since it's just gravity at work. I guess I pull the anode partially, get out of the way and then remove it fully.
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:42 PM   #76
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Bob, why bother with the antifreeze if you are blowing out the lines?
In the method which Bob described, he's ensuring that any remaining liquid in the supply system is antifreeze; blowing out doesn't clear the pump or any of the piping between pump and city water inlet - running the pump empty is supposed to do that. Bob's method also doesn't use much more antifreeze than just blowing the lines out (unlike leaving the freshwater plumbing full of antifreeze), because most of the antifreeze which is used was needed for the drains anyway.
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:44 PM   #77
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Anyway, I think the OP was trying to reduce the flow pressure and I don't know how you would do that since it's just gravity at work.
If it were just gravity (hydrostatic head pressure), it wouldn't be so dramatic. I think it was pressurized air trapped in the heater tank... thus the ideas for relieving pressure.
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Old 10-20-2014, 05:02 PM   #78
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Jim
Used to use antifreeze before I heard of blowing them out, however I like the idea of not leaving antifreeze in the system for the winter. As Brian mentioned, it's just an extra level of caution ensuring there is no water left anywhere. Cheap insurance, but probably overkill.
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Old 10-20-2014, 05:32 PM   #79
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Jim
Used to use antifreeze before I heard of blowing them out, however I like the idea of not leaving antifreeze in the system for the winter. As Brian mentioned, it's just an extra level of caution ensuring there is no water left anywhere. Cheap insurance, but probably overkill.
Thought that was it. One must be sure of the results, or it might be a sleepless winter.
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Old 10-20-2014, 05:55 PM   #80
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Thought that was it. One must be sure of the results, or it might be a sleepless winter.
Which is why I went back to anti-freeze. When you see pink coming out of the tap you know you're good to go. Never was sure that the absence of spitting water meant there wasn't any somewhere in the lines.
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