Winterizing With Compressed Air - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 12-04-2017, 02:12 PM   #1
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Winterizing With Compressed Air

When winterizing with compressed air would I have all the faucets open at once, or is it best to open them individually? And if so, start with the closest faucets?

Thanks!

Gary
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Old 12-04-2017, 02:27 PM   #2
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When winterizing with compressed air would I have all the faucets open at once, or is it best to open them individually? And if so, start with the closest faucets? Thanks! Gary
I do one faucet at a time, but that's because I believe it is beneficial to have a full head of air flowing through each individual line to clear all water possible from that one line, but I have no fluid dynamics facts to base my belief on. Where are the mechanical engineers out there?
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Old 12-04-2017, 02:45 PM   #3
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I have lots of air supply but I still do the faucets one at a time. I like to see each one run dry, including the toilet. I repeat the process a second time just to be sure.

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Old 12-04-2017, 02:46 PM   #4
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I do them 1 at a time more or less with the air set to about 40 psi.
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Old 12-04-2017, 03:12 PM   #5
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I have lots of air supply but I still do the faucets one at a time. I like to see each one run dry, including the toilet. I repeat the process a second time just to be sure. Ron
Don't forget to drain the outside shower, if you have one. And if you've used your 12V water pump for on-board water use, be sure to drain the settling bowl/screen filter where water enters the pump (the clear plastic bowl just screws off). It can retain water in the bottom of the settling bowl. Winterizing is a great way to become more familiar with several intricacies of your water system. Best of luck...
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Old 12-04-2017, 04:09 PM   #6
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Don't forget to drain the outside shower, if you have one. And if you've used your 12V water pump for on-board water use, be sure to drain the settling bowl/screen filter where water enters the pump (the clear plastic bowl just screws off). It can retain water in the bottom of the settling bowl. Winterizing is a great way to become more familiar with several intricacies of your water system. Best of luck...
Might just be lucky, but I've never touched the bowl.
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Old 12-04-2017, 05:39 PM   #7
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Thanks, everyone, for the great insights and advice. I'm including the checklist I plan on using the next day or two. If you see anything that makes you please speak up!

Gary

Purchase:
1 gallon of RV non-toxic antifreeze.
Magnesium anode (Suburban part # 232767?) if needed for replacement

Gather items needed:
Blow out plug
1-1/16” deep socket wrench with extension
PTFE pipe thread tape
3/4" drain plug
Compressor and airhose (make sure tank is dry)

Disconnect the city water hose.

Drain the fresh water tank.

Clean and empty the waste water holding tanks.

Turn off the water heater gas switch. Add a piece of gaffer tape over the water heater gas switch.

Turn off the water heater breaker in the power center. Add a piece of gaffer tape over the water heater breaker.

Make sure the water heater bypass valves are in the 'BYPASS' position. The valves are located near the water heater incoming lines at the rear of the water heater. (See diagram)

Open the pressure relief valve to relieve any pressure. (Move to the side while doing so)

Drain the water heater by removing the anode with a 1-1/16” deep socket wrench with extension.

Flush out sediment build-up in water heater if necessary.

Clean the water heater's anode opening threads.

If replacing the anode, apply 1-1/2 wraps of PTFE tape counterclockwise only on the threads closest to the outside of the tank. Torque to 7-8 foot pounds.

If reinstalling the anode, clean the existing threads and apply 1-1/2 wraps of PTFE tape counterclockwise only on the threads closest to the outside of the tank. Torque to 7-8 foot pounds.

If installing a temporary drain plug, screw in by hand finger tight.

Drain the shower hose sprayer.

Open the kitchen faucets, the bathroom faucets, the outside shower with hose connected, and hold the foot flush toilet valve open.

Turn on the water pump for at least 30 seconds to clear any remaining water from the lines.

Close the kitchen faucets, the bathroom faucets, and the outside shower.

Remove the strainer from the water pump, on the inlet side, to drain any water in the pump. Then replace the strainer.

Install the blow out plug in the city water inlet.

Set the compressor pressure to 40 psi, and connect an air hose to the blow out plug.

Blow out the water lines by opening and closing each hot and cold faucet, one at a time, until no water can be seen coming out of the fixture, in this order:
Outside shower
Kitchen faucets
Bathroom faucets
Toilet foot flush valve

Wait several hours to allow any water to settle and repeat blowing out the water lines.

Use 1/2 gallon of RV antifreeze to pour down sink and shower drains to fill p-traps and 1/2 gallon to pour in the toilet bowl.
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:17 PM   #8
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Might just be lucky, but I've never touched the bowl.
That's the crazy thing about life in general. We're all lucky - right up until the point in time that we're not.....
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:19 PM   #9
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Why do you say? "If replacing the anode, apply 1-1/2 wraps of PTFE tape counterclockwise only on the threads closest to the outside of the tank".

The threads the tape are wrapped on are part of the anode, and the threads that need tape would come in contact with the tank threads. No point in having tape on threads that are outside the tank.
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:52 PM   #10
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We use anti-freeze and the instructions are to open the faucets one at a time starting with the one closest to the anti-freeze pump, then next closest until all are done.
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