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Old 07-29-2015, 01:44 PM   #21
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Does the foam extend below the trailer to a point where it is visible? I like the concept of the insulation, but not sure about having other people see it clinging to the bottom of the trailer, even if they can't see the mice in it.
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Old 07-29-2015, 02:18 PM   #22
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The only spot anyone noticed it was at the dump valves, and that was my 7 year old grand son. It's painted black so it doesn't stick out.
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Old 07-29-2015, 02:40 PM   #23
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That's good to know. The critter aspect, as well as the visual concerned me a bit...
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Old 07-29-2015, 03:05 PM   #24
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What happens if the mice are blind??
You can recognize them; they're in groups of three.
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Old 07-29-2015, 04:04 PM   #25
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A few of these around the trailer seemed to take care of it last winter, I had no mice come spring.

This should work! It also works well in other circumstances, like gun free zones... Lol!
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Old 08-24-2015, 09:43 AM   #26
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What happens to this design when foam is applied? In the event of a water leak or condensation build-up, there are areas in the bottom shell designed to channel water through the drain holes to the outside.
Are mice attracted to the foam insulation? Would be a problem in my area. Anybody had a mouse problem?
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Old 08-24-2015, 09:50 AM   #27
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The foam spray covers the frame inwards whereas the seep holes are around the perimeter shell outside the frame. The foam encapsulates the bottom, thereby eliminating any pest entrance. No issues here in Pennsylvania.
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Old 08-24-2015, 10:38 AM   #28
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Still deciding if I should get the foam underneath. Thanks for the quick reply... good to know!
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Old 08-24-2015, 11:20 AM   #29
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Still deciding if I should get the foam underneath. Thanks for the quick reply... good to know!
Food for thought. I have seen foam with massive infestations ... And some without ..

Spray Foam Insulation and Carpenter Ants | Fine Homebuilding | Breaktime
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Old 11-06-2015, 05:24 PM   #30
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Here are photos for foam again in light of the discussion on the other thread. As far as pests, the link in the above post says they are after wet wood. I don't see any connection to our trailers.

Foam has been used to encase the underbelly of non-fiberglass trailers for winter protection for a few decades now. This is not new with Escapes. I don't know what problems there have been but I am betting trailers with fiberglass underbellies have fewer, whatever they are, if any.
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Old 11-06-2015, 08:26 PM   #31
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Get the foam but forget about the heat pads. They work only when plugged into AC (not while driving) and if you are plugged in anyways, why not use the furnace to keep things thawed.
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Old 11-06-2015, 08:45 PM   #32
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Almost anyone staying out in winter for any extended time does have electric. There are people who do that. They use their water systems. It does not have to be in far below freezing conditions for weeks or months but there are even some who do that. Depends on where you are going and for how long. The heat pads help the exterior tanks. You may not need heat pads but there are others who could use them.
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Old 11-17-2015, 01:26 PM   #33
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A few of these around the trailer seemed to take care of it last winter, I had no mice come spring.

Too funny!
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Old 11-18-2015, 02:37 PM   #34
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Raychem makes a self regulating heat tape that would keep the drain lines from freezing but will not distort the ABS drain lines. The Raychem heat tape can be cut to length and is much better quality then the stuff sold at the big box stores. It also costs about $10 to $12 a ft and the fittings are expensive. One other nice feature is that you can overlap or cross the heat tape and it will not burn out . I installed 10,000 ft of Raychem heat tape for the railroad and 10 years later it's still working perfectly. The Raychem heat tape also comes in various watts per ft so you can get the correct amount of heat for the application.
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Old 11-18-2015, 04:12 PM   #35
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Raychem makes a self regulating heat tape that would keep the drain lines from freezing but will not distort the ABS drain lines. The Raychem heat tape can be cut to length and is much better quality then the stuff sold at the big box stores. It also costs about $10 to $12 a ft and the fittings are expensive. One other nice feature is that you can overlap or cross the heat tape and it will not burn out . I installed 10,000 ft of Raychem heat tape for the railroad and 10 years later it's still working perfectly. The Raychem heat tape also comes in various watts per ft so you can get the correct amount of heat for the application.
Sounds as if it is high quality for sure. Can't tell yet if we need to use such a thing. Thanks for the info.
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Old 11-18-2015, 04:41 PM   #36
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... if you are plugged in anyways, why not use the furnace to keep things thawed.
Because the furnace heats the floor, and so only the top of the underfloor tanks. Even with foam insulation, the fresh and grey tanks may freeze, depending on exterior temperature.
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Old 11-18-2015, 09:21 PM   #37
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10,000 eh? What was that like for u? Thanks!
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Old 11-19-2015, 02:02 PM   #38
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10,000 eh? What was that like for u? Thanks!
We installed all new heat tape at the CN railroad yards along the Mississippi River. They have a 1200 ft underground tunnel from their fuel tanks and storage tanks going out to their locomotive fueling stations. The tunnel was filled with water from spring floods so they pumped out the flood water ,cleaned the mud out of the tunnel ,removed and replaced all the pipe insullation and removed and replaced all the heat tape and controls. Unfortunately the railroad waited until November to start the project so it was cold damp and windy in the tunnels. Work in our area was slow so I was grateful to be working especially since Christmas was fast approaching.
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Old 11-19-2015, 10:41 PM   #39
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Very interesting story! Thanks Steve!
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