Baffle for 4.3 and 6.7 fridges - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 07-11-2014, 10:26 AM   #11
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Wow Reace, mighty nice of you. Perhaps if you can swing it, maybe you can come visit the rally here on the east coast in September, just a thought,
Take some deserved time off and see the other side of the world , it is not that bad east of the Mississippi, just a little more crowded!!
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Old 07-11-2014, 10:38 AM   #12
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This whole thing is really encouraging. It sounds like the baffles must not be that difficult to install. Fridge removal probably not required, for example! I'm really looking forward to seeing the video.
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Old 07-11-2014, 10:44 AM   #13
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I made the videos last night...just waiting for my daughter to come in and edit it and show me how to post it! The fridge does have to be removed to install the baffles. The whole re & re takes about an hour.

I will assume I will be much faster at it by the end of the Bandon trip!

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Old 07-11-2014, 10:46 AM   #14
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Oh! Well, good luck, and I hope you get to relax a little! In this case, the video is especially valuable.
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:50 AM   #15
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Will this baffle mod help performance on the 5.1 cu ft RM2510 fridge in our Classic 5.0?
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Old 07-11-2014, 12:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reace View Post
Just an FYI to those attending the rally in Bandon, I will be bringing supplies so I can install the fridge baffles on site.

Reace
Hi Reace,

will you be coming over to the Netherlands too?

Just kidding. Do we need the baffle too?


Have fun!

Severinus and Yvonne
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Old 07-11-2014, 04:26 PM   #17
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The 5.0 cu.ft. 2-way fridge also had a different install which allowed it to work fine in reasonable temperatures. In the case of the 5 cu. ft. fridge, if you are not happy with the cooling, an exterior fan will help.

The problem with the 4.3 and 6.7 is they were having difficulty cooling in normal temperatures...never mind anything extreme.

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Old 07-11-2014, 05:53 PM   #18
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Hi Reace,

will you be coming over to the Netherlands too?

Just kidding. Do we need the baffle too?


Have fun!

Severinus and Yvonne
A trip to the Netherlands to install a baffle would be a GREAT business tax write-off in the USA. Dunno about Canada, though!
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Old 07-11-2014, 06:22 PM   #19
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Great of you to do this Reace. Sign us up!

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Old 07-12-2014, 05:56 PM   #20
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Well...the fridge saga continues. Although the fridges definitely work better with the baffle installed, there is a limit. The past couple of days have been scorchers for us at mid 30 degrees with high humidity. Unfortunately, the fridges (non of them) like it!
I was searching for some technical tweaks and came across the following on Norcold's site:

Norcold RV Refrigerator Won't Work in Summer (when it's hot out)

Does Your Norcold Refrigerator Warm Up in Hot Ambient Temperatures?

This issue is more common than you think. If you have a gas absorbtion model refrigerator as opposed to an AC/DC model that doesn't run on LP, it is highly sensitive to temperature. If it's too warm outside (90 degrees F and above) or too cold (below freezing) it will not function properly. In most cases it will end up showing a fault code that indicates that the refrigerator is not sensing a temperature drop. This code could be: no co, n, or light flashing 5 times.

What can I do to make it work better?!

The best thing to do here is to make sure that the ventillation is to spec behind the refrigerator. The venting needs to be near perfect in order for it work properly in hot ambient conditions. We recommend removing your access vents and positioning your RV in a way that assures the side of your RV with the refrigerator on it is facing the shade. Another recommendation is that you run the refrigerator on AC rather than LP. Other than these three things, there is nothing that you can do. Gas absorbtion refrigerators operate based on amonia-based condensation that collects up at the top of the cooling unit. This condensation then falls into the cooling unit's condenser coils and flows through the coils by gravity (this is why it's important for your RV to be level). When it gets too warm outside the problem is that condensation never begins at the top of the cooling unit because there isn't enough temperature difference. We are sorry to be the ones responsible for the bad news! Don't blame us, blame the system!

I haven't been able to find anything so bold on the Dometic site!

Reace
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