Furnace change on Escape 21 a shocker - Page 23 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 09-08-2015, 04:32 PM   #221
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new furnace location works fine

We have a 21 with the new furnace setup. We have used it on cold nights and the trailer warms quickly to a comfortable temperature in the dinette area even with the digital thermostat over the furnace outlet.
Based on our experience so far, it doesn't seem to be anything to worry about.
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Old 09-08-2015, 04:41 PM   #222
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Being a forced air furnace, location of the thermostat does not matter a lot. The air currents made by the furnace will eliminate any hot air rising as it naturally would.
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Old 09-08-2015, 05:54 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain_gal View Post
We have a 21 with the new furnace setup. We have used it on cold nights and the trailer warms quickly to a comfortable temperature in the dinette area even with the digital thermostat over the furnace outlet.
Based on our experience so far, it doesn't seem to be anything to worry about.
Yay! Thanks for your take on it. First hand experience is great info.
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:33 PM   #224
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I note that houses, with much better furnace output distribution due to their ducted system, invariably place the thermostat centrally and not over a hot air outlet. Of course, the HVAC people might not know that they're doing...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain_gal View Post
We have a 21 with the new furnace setup. We have used it on cold nights and the trailer warms quickly to a comfortable temperature in the dinette area even with the digital thermostat over the furnace outlet.
What does "cold" mean, in this case?
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Old 09-09-2015, 07:52 AM   #225
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I really do not think it matters much in a 7x18 room where the thermostat is, look at the electric room heaters with the thermostat right on the unit itself, they still perform as needed.
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Old 09-09-2015, 11:04 AM   #226
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I really do not think it matters much in a 7x18 room where the thermostat is, look at the electric room heaters with the thermostat right on the unit itself, they still perform as needed.
Reminds me of the fridge thread, with the opposite theory.
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Old 09-09-2015, 11:06 AM   #227
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We found the entire trailer, from end to end, warmed fine thanks to the strong, quiet fan on the new furnace. The thermostat being above it seemed not to matter.
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Old 09-09-2015, 11:50 AM   #228
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
I note that houses, with much better furnace output distribution due to their ducted system, invariably place the thermostat centrally and not over a hot air outlet. Of course, the HVAC people might not know that they're doing...


What does "cold" mean, in this case?
Thermostats in residential occupancies are placed on an interior wall .
They sense the temperature of the return air to the furnace not the discharge air temp
The thermostats anticipator is set to match the current draw of the gas valve,
which is usually around .4 amps. Placing a thermostat where it is subject to direct sunlight can even have an effect on its acuracy. Humans can feel a temperature variation of as little as
1 1/2 degrees so the thermostats location is important.
Low voltage thermostats are far more accurate than line voltage thermostats which are often used with electric heat. Line voltage stats have a temperature swing of + - 5 degrees
unless they have a built in anticipator ,then the temp swing is + - 2 1/2 deg.
Electric heaters with built in thermostats are the worst for maintaining temp at set point.
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Old 09-09-2015, 01:03 PM   #229
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
Electric heaters with built in thermostats are the worst for maintaining temp at set point.
That's one of the reasons I added an independent thermostat to my cube heater. It sits under the table. The second reason is that I can reach over in the middle of the night and make adjustments to the temperature without getting out of bed.

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Old 09-17-2015, 01:01 AM   #230
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Anybody else having any problems with the new furnace? First time trying to use it (Atwood HFH-2000 analog thermostat) the fan came on for about 30 seconds & then shut off. Wasn't able to get it to come on the rest of yesterday evening. This morning called Escape whom called me back thinking it was a thermostat problem as when I popped the cover off it fired right up & blew warm air. Let it run for a few minutes & shut it down.

This evening turned it on & it kicked on no problem blowing warm air. After a few minutes I turned down the thermostat enough for it to shut off. Haven't been able to get it to come back on since. I removed the thermostat & disconnected the two wires, jumpered them together & still nothing.

When the thermostat calls for heat or when I have the wires jumpered there is a faint buzz from the furnace but nothing else. The trailer has propane as I had been running the fridge on propane for three days & we've used the oven & burners several times.

The manual posted on the forum (which BTW is far superior to the one you get with the trailer) talks about some control board with an LED that should flash if there is an error. Problem is I can't figure out how to get to it. There is seemingly no access to the inside of the unit except possibly through the ducting outside which I have not yet explored.

Anybody have any suggestions? I'll be calling Escape again in the morning but would like to bounce ideas off folks here as well.

To recap, I've experienced two types of failure. First time starting the unit the fan came on for about 30 seconds then shut down (I don't think it fired as there was no warm air). Second failure type is no fan & no fire. After both failure types the furnace makes a faint buzzing noise but nothing else when the thermostat calls for heat.

Thanks.
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