Furnace change on Escape 21 a shocker - Page 25 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 09-18-2015, 10:53 AM   #241
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Originally Posted by J&JBeyer View Post
I am unable to find that model of furnace Atwood AFSAD12 on line. I would like to see it as I have a 21' on order.
A previous post in this thread (a couple pages prior) has a link to the manual which is under the "Files" section of the forum.

I talked to Reace yesterday but he didn't really have any suggestions as they have not had any problems with the new furnaces yet. He did say he thinks it's a sail switch issue and they were adjusting the switches on the old units prior to installing them. He's supposed to tear into a unit and see if he can attempt to figure out what would cause the symptom I'm experiencing and get back to me. Thankfully in the meantime the rest of my immediate camping plans have power so we purchased a smal electric space heater which worked great last night (although a bit loud).

Can a sail switch issue prevent the fan from coming on? I am thinking a sail switch issue would prevent ignition after the fan is running as the unit would not detect air flow. But I'm still new to RV furnaces & am learning.
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Old 09-18-2015, 11:16 AM   #242
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The sail switch is tied into the starting sequence as a safety item - the same motor drives a scavenging fan to clear out the combustion chamber of gases before the firing sequence initiates. If the switch does not work, it will not open the gas solenoid valve to allow the flow of propane, but the fan will continue to work.......
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Old 09-18-2015, 11:30 AM   #243
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My thoughts, those of someone with a general knowledge, but no expert.

I really don't think it is the sail switch at all, because as Charlie said, a sail switch only proves that there is adequate air flow to allow combustion to happen. It would not disallow the fan to start, as it needs the airflow to work at all.

In the first case that T&R described, where the furnace started, but failed to ignite and stopped in 30 seconds, that still would not be the sail switch, as it would not stop the fan from working, but just disallow the gas valve to open.

I still think it is most likely with the fan relay, and I would be taking it to a repair shop to have it checked out. Wouldn't be the first time I was wrong though.
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Old 09-18-2015, 02:23 PM   #244
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My thoughts, those of someone with a general knowledge, but no expert.

I really don't think it is the sail switch at all, because as Charlie said, a sail switch only proves that there is adequate air flow to allow combustion to happen. It would not disallow the fan to start, as it needs the airflow to work at all.

In the first case that T&R described, where the furnace started, but failed to ignite and stopped in 30 seconds, that still would not be the sail switch, as it would not stop the fan from working, but just disallow the gas valve to open.

I still think it is most likely with the fan relay, and I would be taking it to a repair shop to have it checked out. Wouldn't be the first time I was wrong though.
Another case would be where the voltage supplied is so low that the fan can't spin fast enough to keep the sail switch "made" as that will cut off the gas after ignition. I bench tested another brand (for winter boondocking at ski resorts) and found that below 11.4 volts the airflow was so low the sail switch would open, losing the gas but still spewing cold air from the furnace.
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Old 09-18-2015, 02:46 PM   #245
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Another case would be where the voltage supplied is so low that the fan can't spin fast enough to keep the sail switch "made" as that will cut off the gas after ignition. I bench tested another brand (for winter boondocking at ski resorts) and found that below 11.4 volts the airflow was so low the sail switch would open, losing the gas but still spewing cold air from the furnace.
I had considered this, as it is a common problem in RV's. I don't know how many times it happened to me when I had a tent trailer and the kids were small. The fan keeps blowing and blowing cold air, not nice. T&R never stated the battery level, or whether he was connected to 120V, and given the three differing scenarios he encountered, one with the heat temporarily working, and the other with the heat working good, it doesn't sound like a low voltage issue to me.
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Old 09-19-2015, 11:58 AM   #246
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Battery voltage has been in the 13v range and I have only been plugged into shore power when attempting to use the furnace so it's not a battery voltage issue. When I get home I will check voltage at the furnace to see if it's lacking for some reason.

Thanks for the thoughts on the potential problem. Good to know I have similar thoughts as the rest of you. So either we're all on the right track or we all don't know what we're talking about.
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Old 09-19-2015, 01:11 PM   #247
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..... or we all don't know what we're talking about.
Strong possibility there.
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Old 09-19-2015, 01:36 PM   #248
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...I talked to Reace yesterday but he didn't really have any suggestions as they have not had any problems with the new furnaces yet. He did say he thinks it's a sail switch issue and they were adjusting the switches on the old units prior to installing them. He's supposed to tear into a unit and see if he can attempt to figure out what would cause the symptom I'm experiencing and get back to me.....
To me the exemplifies one of the many things I greatly appreciate about Reace and Tammy and Escape Trailers. Most every other trailer manufacturer would refer you to the furnace manufacturer - period.
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