New 4.3 & 6.7 fridge info - Page 33 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 08-16-2014, 01:06 AM   #321
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I do think you are looking at the best option. If mine ever kicks the bucket I will probably go to a compressor model since I have lots of batteries and solar.
Yep. That's why I'm getting the dual 6V batts, and the panel. I may add a second panel and maybe more batts as well, but we don't plan to be off grid that much, so we'll probably just stick with the one panel and two batts to start. We'll see how it goes.
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Old 08-16-2014, 01:16 AM   #322
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Those figures are maximum - power when full cooling is required. And if it has more cooling capacity I would expect it to either cycle on and off (like a compressor) or run partly on (like a stove burner) - it would still have a thermistor and temperature (bar) selector.
Yes, they cycle as required.
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Old 08-16-2014, 03:19 AM   #323
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Yep. That's why I'm getting the dual 6V batts, and the panel. I may add a second panel and maybe more batts as well, but we don't plan to be off grid that much, so we'll probably just stick with the one panel and two batts to start. We'll see how it goes.
...and Bryan, best of luck to you when you receive your new trailer, "Past Tents"!
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Old 08-16-2014, 07:48 AM   #324
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Adding more batteries and panels for a compressor fridge got me thinking about all that weight for towing, which got me thinking about running on 12V while towing since propane is no longer an option. How much current do these compressors fridge require? I hope it's less than for the 12V heating element for adsorption fridges, as that's already more than most tow vehicles can provide and still keep the batteries charged on the camper. My guess is they don't require huge current to run the compressor; hope that's the case, anyway.
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Old 08-16-2014, 08:02 AM   #325
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I run on 12v when I am towing and have never had a problem. The solar panel in addition to the tow vehicle power has always been sufficient
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Old 08-16-2014, 08:28 AM   #326
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Which fridge? Ours is the 6.7. We have large wires for the charge line (and solar with dual 6V), but the few times I tried it I remember the battery ending up at something like 12.4V at the end of the tow. By the time we get to our destination, if off the grid, we don't have much time for solar to bring it back up. You have me wanting to try it again, maybe switching back to propane later in the PM to let the house battery charge back up.
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Old 08-16-2014, 08:55 AM   #327
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I guess I was a little misleading. Probably 90 percent of the time I have hookups when I arrive at the camp site. On a couple of occasions when I didn't have hookups I made it ok but I had several hours of sun to bring the batteries back.
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Old 08-16-2014, 11:23 AM   #328
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How much current do these compressors fridge require?
I started a thread on NovaKool compressor fridges some time back. There's some good info from forum members there on the power requirements. The Danfoss compressor based fridges are surprisingly efficient:

AC/DC Refrigerators
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Old 08-16-2014, 11:55 AM   #329
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How much current do these compressors fridge require? I hope it's less than for the 12V heating element for adsorption fridges, as that's already more than most tow vehicles can provide and still keep the batteries charged on the camper.
Details are in the thread rbryan4 linked, but in rough terms the compressor-based refrigerators will use half the current of the absorption type... when they're running, which should not be all the time.

The limitation on current supply by the tug is in voltage loss over wiring, not the tow vehicle itself. The few amps used to run an RV refrigerator is nothing to a modern car or truck... but that's a different topic!
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Old 08-16-2014, 12:44 PM   #330
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I went back to look at the compressor fridges and agree that the current numbers look pretty good. And I'm pretty familiar with the voltage drop issues and difficulty pushing electrons into the camper battery while the tow vehicle is running at it's normal voltage. Didn't mean to take into that territory with this thread!
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