New 4.3 & 6.7 fridge info - Page 36 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 08-20-2014, 07:12 PM   #351
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I'm also seeing one temperature on one thermometer that is 8 degrees lower than my digital model. Maybe I should install new batteries and recheck.
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Old 08-20-2014, 07:32 PM   #352
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I went out and replaced my batteries in the digital sensors, I'm now at 15F in freezer bottom middle and 35F in refer, on the door. I have it on setting #3 and 120V. So now there is a 20 degree differential versus 41 degrees I had earlier this am. I'm a happy camper. The fans are on and the freezer door is off. I'll check in the am but not sure what temperature I want in freezer, at home I keep it set for 8F/38F and it works fine.
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Old 08-20-2014, 07:48 PM   #353
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Hmmmmm

Sounds like a well-ventilated freezer door may be in my future product offerings..............
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Old 08-20-2014, 07:56 PM   #354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamman View Post
NOPE. The older Casitas had Dometic fridges that worked well in high temperatures.

I spent all of June, 2011 in Phoenix, AZ in a 2005 Casita with a Dometic fridge running on 120V. I ran it on max and used a small 2D battery fan to keep the produce from freezing. The fridge interior was 34-36. I don't know the freezer temperature but it was cold enough to make ice cubes.

The highs were mostly in the low 100s and lows in the high 70s. See Historical Weather For 2011 in Phoenix, Arizona, USA - WeatherSpark

Well, if that is the case, then maybe some people can get that one especially since it is a Dometic. Casita's location may be the reason for a model that works in high temps. Is it no longer available?
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:22 PM   #355
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Well, if that is the case, then maybe some people can get that one especially since it is a Dometic. Casita's location may be the reason for a model that works in high temps. Is it no longer available?
I think there are too many variables to answer that with a yes or no. Casita uses much smaller fridges than ETI does, and yes, many of them perform well in hotter climates because they are rated and designed to do so. The issue here is the RM8500 series fridges used by Escape. They are sub-normal rated, which means they are performing exactly as designed -- cooling well in mild or cool weather, but not in hot weather.

I think the final fix will eventually be that Escape uses another fridge besides the RM 8500 series with the SN rating. Everything else is makeshift, trying to boost the performance of a fridge designed for cool weather -- to work well in hot weather.

As for those who are already stuck with the SN rated fridges, I have no idea what the "fix" will be.
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:44 PM   #356
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6.7 fridge

I added the 1/4' bubble insulation to the inside walls and door, maybe I gained a degree or two, hard to tell for sure. Then I added the fix fan and the fridge temp held at 55* instead of 35 to 40, I believe the strong fix fan was blowing on the thermister and fooling the temp. I pulled the thermister out of the holder on the fin and stuck it behind the insulation and I think that helped. I may plug in the trailer this week and check the temps again while empty since it will be 100*+/- this weekend.
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Old 08-20-2014, 10:48 PM   #357
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Here's an entertaining read for you guys who are trying to re-engineer the fridge.

https://www.dometic.com/enus/America...t-Engineering/
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Old 08-20-2014, 11:22 PM   #358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
How does one move the thermistor? Just pry it off, unscrew or what and then how /where is it reattached? Any pictures?
upper right section of fridge, a white wire plugged into a white box. Pull wire down to unplug, extend wire downwards and tuck into one of the vacant rails with no shelf in it.
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Old 08-20-2014, 11:33 PM   #359
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
Here's an entertaining read for you guys who are trying to re-engineer the fridge.

https://www.dometic.com/enus/America...t-Engineering/
Reminds me of the newer "high efficiency" bulbs that replaced the old 40W fluorescent bulbs in the 4 ft shop lights. What it means is that you save 5 watts by using the new bulbs that burn out 3 times as fast so you have to buy more of them.
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Old 08-21-2014, 12:00 AM   #360
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Gerri,

As soon as the door is closed the fridg is a closed system so the pressure should be constant, the only way pressure could build is if additional air is pumped in


Quote:
Originally Posted by GerriJ View Post
Is it possible that the Fridge Fix fan, which is supposed to circulate quite a bit of air, is actually putting pressure on the door seals and causing cold air to escape the fridge with the unintended result of being replaced by warm air from inside the trailer?
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