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Old 11-04-2017, 07:29 PM   #21
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Looked up the Vitrifrigo; gee...it did not seem to have a blue light (which I have to shove a sock between doors at night) or funky plastic shelves that crack. Bottom drawer looks too functional as well. Hmmm.

Do you have to buy it from Down Under or?
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Old 11-04-2017, 07:55 PM   #22
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Do you have to buy it from Down Under or?
No, it's sold all over. Clay and Cait from Two Plus Lu – Full-time RVers, boondockers, and enthusiasts of our dog. just bought their Vitrifrigo for his Escape 5.0 at a San Diego marine store. I will buy from the Seattle marine store suremarineservice.com they also sell Nova Kool, I bought my 6.8cf Noval Kool from them. Clay was fed up with the Dometic and retrofitted the Vitrifrigo. They are young highly educated digital nomads living out of and making a living in their Escape 5.0 along with little Lucy the dog. Kim and I know them well. A great couple.
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Old 11-04-2017, 10:58 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Just to clarify; the compressor is air cooled and condenser still requires an air flow. There does have to be a flow of air in the rear area, it can't be sealed off.
The Dometic CRX110 manual shows this side view of an installation (under a cabinet), with
  • air intake under the unit (in the space allowed by the feet),
  • a 50 mm (2") wide space behind the unit, and
  • either exhaust upward or over the top of the unit (similar to the back side spacing).
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Old 11-05-2017, 07:20 AM   #24
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I sure like how the Norcold units are "self venting". I'm sure the trailer manufacturers stick with what they know works, to keep warranty claims down, but it seems installing this unit might even save them labor, since you don't have to run gas to it. It's almost the exact same dimensions as the Dometic DM2663.

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Old 11-05-2017, 08:58 AM   #25
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Not to be too much of a wet blanket on this topic, but I thought I read on this forum recently that someone requested this type of install and ETI denied the request. They would not build the shell without the roof and sidewall openings. I can understand that ETI would agree to not install any fridge, as it just omits a step for them. But it seems they are seeking to streamline their production by limiting options that involve changing how/when//where they cut things.

And, as to comments about running “on solar”. These do not run on solar. They run on batteries. So, to the question above, you _do_ need additional battery (beyond the stock single 12v) capacity to run these 12v only fridges. How much battery bank is needed depends on how long you wish to boondock, how hot the environment, etc. And then you use solar (or a generator or the TV) to recharge the batteries.
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Old 11-05-2017, 09:56 AM   #26
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And, as to comments about running “on solar”. These do not run on solar. They run on batteries. ........ And then you use solar (or a generator or the TV) to recharge the batteries.
I am going to go out on a limb here, and guess everyone here knew that.
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Old 11-05-2017, 10:02 AM   #27
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I am going to go out on a limb here, and guess everyone here knew that.
You and your wild speculation...[emoji23]
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Old 11-05-2017, 10:04 AM   #28
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I am going to go out on a limb here, and guess everyone here knew that.


Hmm, ya think[emoji848]


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Old 11-05-2017, 11:01 AM   #29
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I am going to go out on a limb here, and guess everyone here knew that.
That is a big assumption - perhaps everyone who posts on this forum every day of the year - but not necessarily the many who are (1) new to camping, (2) new to trailers, (3) have never had an absorption refrigerator or (4) do not have a degree in HVAC or electricity.

I very much appreciate that someone pointed out that there are potential negatives (or at least clarified operational requirements) in the discussion. Such open discussion really helps those of us who are inexperienced and are trying to learn as much as we can.
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Old 11-05-2017, 11:03 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by jking1224 View Post
Not to be too much of a wet blanket on this topic, but I thought I read on this forum recently that someone requested this type of install and ETI denied the request. They would not build the shell without the roof and sidewall openings. I can understand that ETI would agree to not install any fridge, as it just omits a step for them. But it seems they are seeking to streamline their production by limiting options that involve changing how/when//where they cut things.

And, as to comments about running “on solar”. These do not run on solar. They run on batteries. So, to the question above, you _do_ need additional battery (beyond the stock single 12v) capacity to run these 12v only fridges. How much battery bank is needed depends on how long you wish to boondock, how hot the environment, etc. And then you use solar (or a generator or the TV) to recharge the batteries.
Thanks for pointing out the operational requirements. As with anything - there are always negatives (or at least challenges) that go along with the positives.
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Old 11-05-2017, 11:07 AM   #31
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That is a big assumption -
LOL
'twas a guess, not an assumption, with a winky face to boot.
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Old 11-05-2017, 11:30 AM   #32
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I am going to go out on a limb here,
Where's my chainsaw?

It is a bit of a quagmire topic. But having had 3 different types; propane, 12 volt compressor and engine driven compressor with cold plates, I know that there's all sorts of opinions on which one's best etc. My Dometic does well most of the time but there's been a few times that I've longed for one of the other two types.

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Old 11-05-2017, 11:57 AM   #33
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Thanks for pointing out the operational requirements. As with anything - there are always negatives (or at least challenges) that go along with the positives.
Truer words never spoken.

First, solar is just another source of energy just like tow alternator charging, generator and 120vAC plug in charging at pay campgrounds. Everything runs off battery, solar is one of many battery charging systems.

Purpose of the batteries is to carry you between charges be it solar, generator or 120vAC. To boondock longer you need more battery capacity that will replenish when sun rises, you drive away charging with alternator or reach a 120vAC source.

Anyone thinking of 12v refrigerator needs to understand that it's easy to do if you mostly stay at pay campgrounds with 120vAC OR have a good tow charging system OR are willing to charge with generator OR have plenty of solar capacity to charge during daylight. Any one of the these four charging sources will work. My "camping" style allowed me to use tow vehicle charging, no generator, no solar and could boondock 4 days.

Adsorption refrigerators costs a lot less than 12v units. Understandably, this alone will turn off many buyers. A well running properly installed adsorption refrigerator that does not constantly fail is an excellent way to refrigerate as LPG is a great energy source.

For those that plan on dropping off their trailers at a no service campground such as a national or state park for long period of time, you can not beat the advantage of an adsorption refrigerator. You could do same with a 12v refrigerator but it will cost more for supporting equipment such as more battery capacity and solar capacity.
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Old 11-05-2017, 01:42 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by jking1224 View Post
I thought I read on this forum recently that someone requested this type of install and ETI denied the request. They would not build the shell without the roof and sidewall openings. I can understand that ETI would agree to not install any fridge, as it just omits a step for them. But it seems they are seeking to streamline their production by limiting options that involve changing how/when//where they cut things.
Correct. I was told that I could not delete the openings. They would give a credit for the absorption fridge and modify the cabinet for a reasonable charge and let me install a 12V fridge. However, I just decided to start with the standard fridge and go to the 12V in the future depending on how it goes.
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Old 11-05-2017, 01:58 PM   #35
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Correct. I was told that I could not delete the openings. They would give a credit for the absorption fridge and modify the cabinet for a reasonable charge and let me install a 12V fridge. However, I just decided to start with the standard fridge and go to the 12V in the future depending on how it goes.
That may what we do. I think the fridge they install is a good value, large, and a Dometic, which they have strong ties to. Sure wish I could stop the big holes from being cut, but I suppose I could convert them into access doors later too.

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Old 11-05-2017, 02:16 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by jking1224 View Post
Not to be too much of a wet blanket on this topic, but I thought I read on this forum recently that someone requested this type of install and ETI denied the request. They would not build the shell without the roof and sidewall openings. I can understand that ETI would agree to not install any fridge, as it just omits a step for them. But it seems they are seeking to streamline their production by limiting options that involve changing how/when//where they cut things.

And, as to comments about running “on solar”. These do not run on solar. They run on batteries. So, to the question above, you _do_ need additional battery (beyond the stock single 12v) capacity to run these 12v only fridges. How much battery bank is needed depends on how long you wish to boondock, how hot the environment, etc. And then you use solar (or a generator or the TV) to recharge the batteries.
Thankyou for your post . There are a lot following the forum who do not understand . Many are first timers . Pat
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Old 11-05-2017, 02:18 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Santiago View Post
Truer words never spoken.

First, solar is just another source of energy just like tow alternator charging, generator and 120vAC plug in charging at pay campgrounds. Everything runs off battery, solar is one of many battery charging systems.

Purpose of the batteries is to carry you between charges be it solar, generator or 120vAC. To boondock longer you need more battery capacity that will replenish when sun rises, you drive away charging with alternator or reach a 120vAC source.

Anyone thinking of 12v refrigerator needs to understand that it's easy to do if you mostly stay at pay campgrounds with 120vAC OR have a good tow charging system OR are willing to charge with generator OR have plenty of solar capacity to charge during daylight. Any one of the these four charging sources will work. My "camping" style allowed me to use tow vehicle charging, no generator, no solar and could boondock 4 days.

Adsorption refrigerators costs a lot less than 12v units. Understandably, this alone will turn off many buyers. A well running properly installed adsorption refrigerator that does not constantly fail is an excellent way to refrigerate as LPG is a great energy source.

For those that plan on dropping off their trailers at a no service campground such as a national or state park for long period of time, you can not beat the advantage of an adsorption refrigerator. You could do same with a 12v refrigerator but it will cost more for supporting equipment such as more battery capacity and solar capacity.
Santiago Thankyou again for your knowledge and expertise on this subject Pat
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Old 11-05-2017, 02:19 PM   #38
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However, I just decided to start with the standard fridge and go to the 12V in the future depending on how it goes.
That sounds like a good plan. With luck you will have a trouble free experience and enjoy the benefits of propane, which are many on a trailer. Getting the large Dometic from ETI is an excellent value and now with the new Dometic models offered on new style Escape trailers, from what I read here are working very well.

Like my friends Clay and Cait and Steve (Hotfishtaco), you can always convert at a later date should the adsorption refrigerator not work out for you. Should retrofit be necessary at a later date you can cover all openings as you really do not need to do any maintenance behind unit. Your call.
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