BIKE RACKs once again...

[barry]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Group, I'm going to be purchasing a 1Up bike rack for my big trip. My question, is what kind of bike security do you think would be wise to get? Neither of the bikes are valuable to anyone but us, but sure don't want to see them nor the rack to walk off. Anything here? https://www.1up-usa.com/product-category/security/

For my 1up I use a krytonite cable lock to secure the bike rack to the hitch and pull it tight so it doubles as a safety cable as the velcro strap they provide is a little weak for my liking. I use this chain https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5016-8...-Storage-Chain to secure the bikes to the rack and lock the chain together with a high quality U lock. Our road bikes are worth just over six grand so I don't want to loose them. I also cover them with a nylon cover (actually one designed for a lawn tractor worked) so no one can see what kind of bikes are on the rack and it also doubles to keep them clean.
Barry

[Fox hunt]

for a two bike one-up its 500-600 dollars? I'm experiencing some sticker shock. I think i will keep my Swagman for now. No off road trips planned.

[barry]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

The 1Up USA bike rack doesn't use a traditional hitch pin (doesn't even have holes for one) because that allows too much slack and sloppy rocking. They instead incorporate a "compression ball system" (my words), that when pushed into place by a threaded bold with a proprietary (kind of) Allen wrench head, snugs/"locks" the shaft in the hitch receiver and eliminates loose-fit rocking. Then for security, you can lock out access to the head of the tightening/snugging bolt. I hope that makes sense along with the photos below (sorry for the shadows). I'm sure the proprietary wheel locks work as advertised, but a good old fashioned bike cable lock is cheaper and, for my money, works just as well and locks the bike frame, as well.

I don't trust the compression ball anymore as I had the pin that holds it in place shatter and the rack come loose. The company was very good and sent me two replacements but they did acknowledge that they had had a few defective pins show up and they didn't have the equipment to check them prior to shipment. I now use a tight cable lock as well to hold the rack to the hitch so that it doesn't fall off. They do supply a velcro strap but it's a bit flimsy for my liking. Having said that this is the best rack I've ever owned and it is RV approved unlike many other top brands out there.
Barry

[barry]

Originally Posted by Fox hunt

for a two bike one-up its 500-600 dollars? I'm experiencing some sticker shock. I think i will keep my Swagman for now. No off road trips planned.

I replaced my Swagman with a 1-up and there is no comparison, it's worth the price and I had to pay it in Canadian dollars which adds another 25 to 30%!!
Barry

[NCBill]

As a collector/restorer/seller of higher end vintage bikes, most thieves don’t know the difference between the valuable stuff and a cheaper bike. They will steal them all. In addition, quick release seatpost clamp = quick steal saddle and seatpost.

I tend to keep my bikes inside the locked camper top on my truck both got security and to keep the bikes from getting pounded on the road.

When I do use a rack, I only use the ones that support the bike from its tires. More secure and less damage to the frame compared to a “dangler” rack. And good bike racks are not cheap for sure!

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

They instead incorporate a "compression ball system" (my words), that when pushed into place by a threaded [bolt] with a proprietary (kind of) Allen wrench head...

Originally Posted by thiggins

Oh, and GOD forbid you lose your "special" allen wrenches! Oh boy, do I know what a PITA THAT is !?! I ended hacking a crude one together quickly, but they will ship new ones to you after they verify who you are.

That looks like a common "security" hex. If you know the size, or are willing to buy a set, the bits or wrenches are widely available at hardware and tool stores (once you know what to call it). I think I would check out the size ahead of time, so if I lost the original and needed another, I would know what to buy... or I could take the one I already have in my toolbox if I already have that size covered.

[thiggins]

It's not a standard HEX wrench, trust me. There's a little hole in the middle that fits over a "key" in the hitch. You'd need to drill out that hole to make it work, and that steel is HARD! Took me forever to make one that worked, since I have no machine shop here at home.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by thiggins

It's not a standard HEX wrench, trust me. There's a little hole in the middle that fits over a "key" in the hitch.

Yes, that's the "security" part of the name "security hex", which is also called "tamper proof". The idea of these was that they were not normal, so thieves would not have the right tool and no one other than authorized repair techs would mess with equipment under warranty... but the tools are now very common (so that people can fix their legitimate belongings), so it's not a very effective security technique. The same scheme (a pin in the hex recess to block a normal driver, requiring a driver with a corresponding hole) is used in security Torx fasteners as well; the Torx version seems to have become much more common.

Example: 13 pc SAE Tamper Resistant Hex Bit Set. This is in "SAE" (inch) sizes; there would be metric as well, but this company - my favourite supplier of inexpensive tools - appears to have only an SAE set.

If fastener is recessed too far, typical bits might be too short but an extension can be used.

If it isn't too tight, a security/tamper-proof Torx bit of the right size might work if a proper hex bit can't be found, although of course this is not a recommended technique.

Originally Posted by thiggins

You'd need to drill out that hole to make it work, and that steel is HARD! Took me forever to make one that worked, since I have no machine shop here at home.

To work around this, you can either drill a hole in a standard driver (like Tim), or mill or grind the pin out of the fastener without destroying the hex... and I wouldn't expect to be able to do either myself.


Can someone with a 1UP and a set of security hex bits check the size and share it with other owners... just in case?

[Eggscape]

I made a bike rack on our last trailer but found the bikes got real dirty when driving on wet dirt roads to get to a camp ground.
Our new folding Volt Bike fits inside our F150...in fact two will fit...folded or not. Keeps them clean and reasonably safe. I do cable lock them inside while traveling to keep them in the back seat and not in the front. It is going to be great to have them with us when we unhitch and go into town to see the sights.

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

... Can someone with a 1UP and a set of security hex bits check the size and share it with other owners... just in case? ...

A 3/8" hex socket fits it, so I was guessing that meant it was a 3/8" hex wrench. And after looking closer, the 1UP security hex wrench is engraved as "TUZ 3/8 CR-V".

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

A 3/8" hex socket fits it, so I was guessing that meant it was a 3/8" hex wrench. And after looking closer, the 1UP security hex wrench is engraved as "TUZ 3/8 CR-V".

Thanks

That appears to be from TUZ of Taiwan, although they list only standard (not security) hex keys, and 3/8" sounds right. They mostly sell bolts; the hex keys are just an accessory.
The "CR-V" presumably means chromium-vanadium alloy steel.

[barry]

I believe 1up creates the security feature of this hex wrench themselves. When I look at my wrench the hole that's drilled in the wrench to allow it to "seat" is not quite central. 1up use to provide a lifetime guarantee against theft when the rack was attached to a vehicle and they have since dropped this. Best to lock the rack to the hitch as there must be some thieves out there that are wise to this security feature, but like anything locks only deter the casual thief not the determined one anyway.
Barry

[John in Santa Cruz]

I did a bunch of research, and chose the Swagman Escapee 2-bike for the hitch reciever on the back of my Escape... Its a nice solid piece of gear. holds our odd shape bikes very nicely. I've had a variety of Yakima and Thule racks in the past, this is way more solid than any of them

my wife's 'step through' comfort bike has no top tube at all, so is quite problematic on 'hanging' type racks, and its mono downtube is so fat that most 'lockjaw' type racks don't hold it securely. no problem on the Escapee...

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by barry

I believe 1up creates the security feature of this hex wrench themselves. When I look at my wrench the hole that's drilled in the wrench to allow it to "seat" is not quite central.

Interesting - so does only fit in one of the six possible orientations? That sounds annoying... and like it might be a sloppy hole position instead of a deliberate feature, but if the pin is off-centre enough and large enough it could keep a normal security hex bit from fitting.

TUZ would have built the hex socket head bolt and corresponding hex bit for 1Up.

[John in Santa Cruz]

oh. i might add, one piece of my Swagman didn't quite go together right, I contacted etrailer (whom I bought it from) they asked me to contact, swagman, so I used their support email, got a prompt response, traded af few emails and photos over the course of an hour, and ended up having to file a bit of a weld down so that piece would fit cleanly. they offered to ship me another piece but the file fixed it *now*, and they were fine with that (said it won't void the warranty). I give their tech support an A+

a side note, instead of the regular hitch reciever pin, it actually has a machined hardened bolt you torque on, then put a cotter pin through.... torquing down this bolt keeps the rack from bouncing in the reciever.

[Tmaz]

I'd suggest getting a "North Shore Rack". They are very durable. Made in North Vancouver, most mountain bikers in the area swear by them.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Tmaz

I'd suggest getting a "North Shore Rack". They are very durable. Made in North Vancouver, most mountain bikers in the area swear by them.

"Note: not intended for road bikes"

meh. my hybrid has 700c wheels, with 32c touring tires, way skinnier than most all cruisers and mountain bikes.




now, I'm just hauling 2 bikes. in the past I had to carry 4 (kids, don'tcha know). I think now, if I had to do 4+, I'd consider a vertical rack like that North Shore thing, although the rv rated Swagman Escapee can be expanded to 4. I would *NOT* under any conditions put 4 bikes on the back of my Escape, the hitch is only rated for 150 lbs per the sticker. My Escapee 2 is rated for carrying two bikes of 60 lbs each, like e-bikes... the rack weighs like 60 lbs itself, so staying within the Escape trailer rating, 90 lbs combined of bikes is max. but my bikes weigh like 25 or 30 lbs each, so we're way under, and I feel totally secure about this load.

on my E150 van, we used this fancy Yakima rack that held 4 bikes and was designed so you could swing it away from the tail and open the vehicle doors while the bikes were still loaded. We carried 4 'family' grade bikes on it, not fancy flyweight carbon fiber racing stuff... it couldn't hold the weight it was rated for after a couple years of occasional use.

[Tom and Gay]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

My current Thule, 4 bike rack isn't RV rated. I'm not worried when carrying just my bicycle. But am looking not only at 'better,' but towing longer distances. Doubtful I'll ever "off road" when pulling Ten Forward. I'm giving the Thule and two bicycles to my daughter and SIL. It will work great for their needs and I get rid of 'STUFF.'

Great feedback on the cables and locks. Do y'all think these would take care of the cables through the frame and rims? https://www.1up-usa.com/product/wheel-locks/

I have a bunch of cables and locks and you're right they're stiff. I guess I'm just looking for 'simple' that works.

Hi Donna
We have a 1UP rack for two bikes and really like their wheel locks and hitch bar lock. I nearly always use them as they are easy to install and they store in my driver door pocket. One of our bikes carries both a 6' Kryptonite cable and U-lock so a few times when I've wanted more security I've used them along with the 1UP locks. I think the cable ends would fit in the wheel locks but it wouldn't seem to me to be the second level of security the cable/u-lock combo provides.

[Donna D.]

Thanks Tom. I hadn't thought about storage for locks, etc., but using the door pockets sound I'll also be carrying a cable and padlock, just for those times I'm out riding and then need to lock the bike while I 'shop'

[Red Dog]

Just ordered a 1UP for our 21’. Can’t wait!