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Old 01-21-2012, 05:29 PM   #1
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Polar Cub AC.

Has anyone here used a Polar Cub AC and can say how it worked? (How many BTUs?) I know just a couple of people put them on their Escapes.
How about the Dometic? Is it working well?
Thank you.
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:46 AM   #2
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Re: Polar Cub AC.

I looked into A/C units 3 years ago quite a bit, but decided to forego one for now, and have not needed it. We will put one on when we start travelling to hotter climates. At the time the Polar Cub would have been the one I would have used. If you have the extra insulation and dual glazed windows, you really don't need one very big. The only thing I did not like about it compared to the one Escape normally uses, is that it a bit taller. Otherwise, it gets good reviews, and is more than big enough. If you wanted to use a 2kW gen set, it would be no problem either.
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Old 01-22-2012, 10:22 AM   #3
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Re: Polar Cub AC.

You might also look at the Coleman "MACH I POWER SAVER 9632". It is a 11,000 BTU AC that draws less running amps and a lower locked rotor amperage than the Polar Cub 9200. Here is a PDF that shows all the Coleman models.
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:21 PM   #4
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Re: Polar Cub AC.

Jon, I know you know what you are talking about but I decidedly do not! The 9,200 installed is more than $1100 so I can imagine what the 11,000 BTUs costs. But are you saying that there could be a problem starting the 9,200 with a 30amp set-up? Or do you mean you use less electricity with the 11,000? I am thinking what Jim said, that maybe less BTUs are necessary due to insulation and thermal windows. Jim, I do expect to spend a lot of my camping time up near or over the border so who knows how much AC is needed.
Cathy
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:43 PM   #5
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Re: Polar Cub AC.

Cathy,

We had a Coleman on our Scamp and the Dometic on the Escape. Both worked fine and seemed to be similar noise levels, but we have very very rarely needed to use them. I only really got A/C since the roof needs to be reinforced for the weight and it seemed like it would be much more expensive to go back and retrofit one. Maybe someday we will head somewhere hot enough to need it. But since most of our trips are in the spring and fall, and we are seldom anywhere with AC power it mostly is just a decoration on top of Blue.

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Old 01-22-2012, 06:52 PM   #6
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Re: Polar Cub AC.

Cathy, with the extra insulation and dual glazed windows, not only does it hold the heat, it stays quite cool inside even on hot days. Having the awning out helps too. We have camped in 30°C (86°F) weather a few times, and have not felt the need for A/C. These places have all cooled down good at night which helps too.

Eric is right that if added later one would need the shroud that Escape uses to stiffen the roof for mounting the A/C. They could ship that to you, or a trip back to visit the factory would be a fun thing to do anyway, so long as you are close enough.
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:35 PM   #7
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Re: Polar Cub AC.

Actually, I have to check if the 11,000 BTUs is installed for $1100 plus or the other one. May have that wrong.
Jim and Eric, I just stupidly made the assumption that all Escapes are now built to take AC. For sure I want to ask about that. I thought they didn't do that at first but were doing it in recent years. Don't know.
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Old 01-22-2012, 10:12 PM   #8
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Re: Polar Cub AC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathy
Jon, I know you know what you are talking about but I decidedly do not! The 9,200 installed is more than $1100 so I can imagine what the 11,000 BTUs costs. But are you saying that there could be a problem starting the 9,200 with a 30amp set-up? Or do you mean you use less electricity with the 11,000? I am thinking what Jim said, that maybe less BTUs are necessary due to insulation and thermal windows. Jim, I do expect to spend a lot of my camping time up near or over the border so who knows how much AC is needed.
Cathy
There is no problem running any of the ACs discussed on a 30 amp connection. The concern most have is trying to come up with an AC that will run on one 2000 watt generator. According to Escape, the 11,000BTU Dometic they use will not start when connected to a Honda 2000 watt generator. According to many users, the Polar Cub 9200 will run on a single Honda generator. The Coleman Mach I Power Saver is relatively new; I have no idea whether is is possible for Reace at Escape Trailer Industries can install one or what the cost would be, but is does spec out at requiring even less power than the Polar Cub.

Again, there is no problem running just about any single AC on a campground 30 amp connection; it is the generator supply that is the problem.

If you did decide to use an AC other than one supplied by Escape, they could provide the wiring & roof reinforcement to make the trailer "AC ready" and after delivery you could have one installed locally.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:25 PM   #9
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Re: Polar Cub AC.

John, Tammy has just told me that they a now using a newer model Dometic 600312.331C which can be used with a 2000 watt generator. It has a Smart Start feature. So they have taken care of that problem.

Cathy
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:32 PM   #10
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Re: Polar Cub AC.

I meant Jon! Sorry, Jon!
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:45 PM   #11
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Re: Polar Cub AC.

Hi Cathy

Just to clarify...the newer version of the Dometic 11,000 BTU A/C comes equipped with a smart start capacitor. I successfully ran the A/C with a Honda 2000. I put it through all the paces of starting up under different situations, and it worked fine. It does run into the peak capacity zone when the compressor kicks in, but does not trip the breaker. It would be an issue if the trailer batteries are weak and the on-board battery charger is working to charge them while you are planning to use the A/C. I would suggest switching the batteries off before operating the A/C. Our test had all the LED lights on, and the furnace running. (had to create heat in the winter ) The generator should provide enough power to run basic items in the trailer at the same time as the A/C.

The down side of the new a/c is it is approx 20 lbs heavier than the previous version. (its not the smart start)

Hope that helps

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Old 02-01-2012, 10:34 PM   #12
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Re: Polar Cub AC.

Reace,

That does help. Thanks for that information. One additional inquiry: what year did you start installing the "newer" version? Yeah, I left all the documentation in SittEscape, which is now in storage. As far back as June of 2011?

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Old 02-01-2012, 11:28 PM   #13
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Re: Polar Cub AC.

Hi, Reace!

Thank you for the explanation. Quite a few people seem to have generators so I know it is a resale question, too. I would also like to know what month you started installing the generator-friendly ones.
Cathy
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:56 AM   #14
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Re: Polar Cub AC.

Ours has the one that will work with a generator and that model was being used at least from the first of August last year.
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:49 PM   #15
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Re: Polar Cub AC.

While I have not tried it with a 2K generator, the model number on mine is the Dometic 600312.331C. I purchased my 17 in April, 2011. If they didn't change the model number I guess this isn't much help, but if they did then I guess I'm good...
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Old 06-08-2012, 11:48 AM   #16
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Re: Polar Cub AC.

This is an interesting mod to delay your a/c fan to help out the generator amp draw if needed.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...mod-20541.html
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Old 06-30-2017, 09:03 PM   #17
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100 year old AC/generator quote

Quote:
Originally Posted by reace View Post
Hi Cathy

Just to clarify...the newer version of the Dometic 11,000 BTU A/C comes equipped with a smart start capacitor. I successfully ran the A/C with a Honda 2000. I put it through all the paces of starting up under different situations, and it worked fine. It does run into the peak capacity zone when the compressor kicks in, but does not trip the breaker. It would be an issue if the trailer batteries are weak and the on-board battery charger is working to charge them while you are planning to use the A/C. I would suggest switching the batteries off before operating the A/C. Our test had all the LED lights on, and the furnace running. (had to create heat in the winter ) The generator should provide enough power to run basic items in the trailer at the same time as the A/C.

The down side of the new a/c is it is approx 20 lbs heavier than the previous version. (its not the smart start)

Hope that helps

Reace
Does anyone know if this is still applicable?

I'm looking at the Honda 2000 line of generators. There is the standard, then there's the companion version. The standard version is 1600w, which seems to be cutting it close with the AC. The companion version is 2000w. I've read the standard version can't hook up to a 30 amp plug, but the companion can't be used alone, only with another generator??

Which generators do you Escapees have, and can you hook up directly to your 30 amp cord and just selectively run only 110v? I'm mainly looking for AC in small doses, microwave when a toddler is starving after a long trip, and general battery charging if solar suffers from a week in the shade, etc.

(I know next to nothing about electricity, those synapses never fused and I can't ever retain electrical knowledge, so if this question makes no sense, please feel free to educate!)
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Old 06-30-2017, 09:20 PM   #18
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The companion version is for when you want to run two eu2000s at the same time, connected to each other, for a maximum output of 4000 watts. It's called parallel operation, and most small 2000 watt generators have this capability. The reason why there's a 30 amp receptacle on the companion model is that it's designed for use with your RV's power cord. With two 2000 watt generators running together, you can plug in the trailer power cord with no adapter - just like regular 30 amp shore power. You can also connect two regular eu2000is together in parallel, but you won't have a 30 amp receptacle. In order to plug in the trailer 30 amp power cord in such a case, you'd need a pigtail adapter which uses two 20 amp connections, outputted to a single 30 amp connection.

The 1600 watts you refer to is the running output. The peak output is 2000 watts. And yes it's still applicable to the Dometic AC currently being installed in Escapes. The eu2000i will run the AC. This could be affected however by elevation. The higher you go, the less power the generator will produce. Reace's tests were done at a relatively low elevation in Chilliwack.

As far as power cords are concerned, with a single eu2000i, you would just use a 30 amp to 20 amp adapter, and plug in the trailer umbilical. However, I would recommend you use an adapter that has a bonded neutral internally. That way, it will work when the trailer's Electrical Management System (EMS) is on.

Lastly, it's relatively easy for the eu2000i to run the microwave, but probably not the microwave and the AC simultaneously. You'd need more wattage for that - either two eu2000s running together, or say at least a 2500 watt generator. Two eu2000i's running in parallel is alot of power output, and much easier to haul around than a single 4000 watt generator, and thus it's a popular option.

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Old 06-30-2017, 10:55 PM   #19
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Quote:
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The companion version is for when you want to run two eu2000s at the same time, connected to each other, for a maximum output of 4000 watts. It's called parallel operation, and most small 2000 watt generators have this capability. The reason why there's a 30 amp receptacle on the companion model is that it's designed for use with your RV's power cord. With two 2000 watt generators running together, you can plug in the trailer power cord with no adapter - just like regular 30 amp shore power. You can also connect two regular eu2000is together in parallel, but you won't have a 30 amp receptacle. In order to plug in the trailer 30 amp power cord in such a case, you'd need a pigtail adapter which uses two 20 amp connections, outputted to a single 30 amp connection.

The 1600 watts you refer to is the running output. The peak output is 2000 watts. And yes it's still applicable to the Dometic AC currently being installed in Escapes. The eu2000i will run the AC. This could be affected however by elevation. The higher you go, the less power the generator will produce. Reace's tests were done at a relatively low elevation in Chilliwack.

As far as power cords are concerned, with a single eu2000i, you would just use a 30 amp to 20 amp adapter, and plug in the trailer umbilical. However, I would recommend you use an adapter that has a bonded neutral internally. That way, it will work when the trailer's Electrical Management System (EMS) is on.

Lastly, it's relatively easy for the eu2000i to run the microwave, but probably not the microwave and the AC simultaneously. You'd need more wattage for that - either two eu2000s running together, or say at least a 2500 watt generator. Two eu2000i's running in parallel is alot of power output, and much easier to haul around than a single 4000 watt generator, and thus it's a popular option.

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OK so I can use a single eu2000i to run the microwave in short and rare instances, along with other small electric minus the AC? In another instance the single eu2000i could also run the AC as long as we didn't get too high up in elevation? Is it reasonable to say that at a certain elevation the generator could not run the AC at all, even if that was its only power draw?

We will not need the microwave often, I just would like the option. I could not foresee a reason for not being able to cycle off the AC for a bit to run the microwave if I really needed it

If running the AC without other high power suckers, could we maybe run other small electrical such as LEDs, water pump, etc? Could the fridge ever be run from a single eu2000i?

It's good to know that there's an adapter for hooking up a single to the camper. I am not familiar with a neutrally bonded adapter. Is this available commercially for order?

Also specifically with the Escape and the eu2000I, as it's output will be only 110v, how is this managed at the panel? Are you forced to run from only half of the panel at a time? Do you just flip your breakers for what you will not use?

Finally, how does it work if, say, we're boondocking and just using our solar power for maxxfan, lights, etc, then want to hook up the generator for a few hours of AC or something. Can I simultaneously use all of the power from the generator for the AC, while also supplementing with battery power for a few other things? Tina told me today that the eu2000i isn't enough to run the AC and charge the battery at the same time, but that doesn't necessarily mean that I can't use the generator powered air conditioner and use already stored battery power at the same time, right?

(FYI We will not have an inverter installed, only a 10 gauge 12v outlet with a portable inverter for rare use. Thank you to whoever came up with that idea on the forums)
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Old 06-30-2017, 11:10 PM   #20
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My responses inline.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthernCamper View Post
OK so I can use a single eu2000i to run the microwave in short and rare instances, along with other small electric minus the AC?
Yes, but the length of time is irrelevant.

In another instance the single eu2000i could also run the AC as long as we didn't get too high up in elevation? Is it reasonable to say that at a certain elevation the generator could not run the AC at all, even if that was its only power draw?
Yes, it's reasonable to assume that if you got high enough, the 2000 watt generator would not be able to produce enough power to run the AC. But, that's usually not a problem, as higher elevations are cooler.

If running the AC without other high power suckers, could we maybe run other small electrical such as LEDs, water pump, etc?
Yes.

Could the fridge ever be run from a single eu2000i?
No need - just run it on propane. Works better that way anyway.

It's good to know that there's an adapter for hooking up a single to the camper. I am not familiar with a neutrally bonded adapter. Is this available commercially for order?
Yes, they're generally available. EDIT: the adapter in question goes in the unused 20 amp plug. The 30 to 20 amp adapter is used for the power connection.

Also specifically with the Escape and the eu2000I, as it's output will be only 110v, how is this managed at the panel? Are you forced to run from only half of the panel at a time? Do you just flip your breakers for what you will not use?
The generator produces AC power, but the trailer's converter turns it into DC power for the internal components - except for the AC. There's really no need to turn off any breakers - just use fewer electrical items simultaneously.

Finally, how does it work if, say, we're boondocking and just using our solar power for maxxfan, lights, etc, then want to hook up the generator for a few hours of AC or something. Can I simultaneously use all of the power from the generator for the AC, while also supplementing with battery power for a few other things? Tina told me today that the eu2000i isn't enough to run the AC and charge the battery at the same time, but that doesn't necessarily mean that I can't use the generator powered air conditioner and use already stored battery power at the same time, right?
If you're connected to a generator, you're not using any battery power. Everything you turn on is drawing it's power from the converter - just like when you're connected to shore power. The solar panel will continue to charge the batteries, just as it always does. But, to use battery power, you disconnect from the generator.
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