30 amp in a 50 amp site - Page 3 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 10-23-2014, 03:39 PM   #21
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I did the same, but started with a #14 extension cord from Lowes, 10' long I think. I cut off the female connector and installed the twist lock available from a variety of RV and marine sources. It's really handy for when we have the Escape at home or in storage and just need a little power for the fridge or charging the battery.
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Old 10-23-2014, 03:48 PM   #22
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Since a lot of the Escape trailers have the EMS, I figured it would be a good idea to get some direct input from progressive on this. While the response does not really support my position, or provide complete clarification, I am posting it here for the benefit of the group. My concern would be with the "As long as you don't exceed 30 amp current draw" constraint.

Email exchange:

As long as you don't exceed 30 amp current draw. Regards, Donald, Customer Support

-----Original Message-----
From: Joe
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 2:47 PM
To: Donald Kalinowski
Subject: Re: question regarding the EMS-HW30C

Is there any concern with the #10 wire being protected by a 50A breaker ?

On 10/23/2014 02:45 PM, Donald Kalinowski wrote:
> yes
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe
> Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 2:44 PM
> To: Info
> Subject: question regarding the EMS-HW30C
>
> Can a camper with an EMS-HW30C be safely connected to the 50A connection at a camp site utilizing a 50A to 30A adapter cable at the power post ?
>
>
> thanks
> joe
>
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Old 10-23-2014, 04:06 PM   #23
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That is more or less common sense with any electric use, your weakest link is normally your wire, just like someone using an electric heater with an inadequate extension. I however feel that there is little possibility you can exceed the 30 amp wire capacity in your Escape unless intentionally done.
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Old 10-23-2014, 06:20 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post
Interesting thought. I made up a #14 power cord for plugging in to a 20 amp outlet when I don't need to run the air conditioner, rather than drag out the 30 amp cable. So if I run my light duty power cord, made with #14 wire, to a 20 amp plug into a couple of adapters to connect to a 50 amp service, my power cord may be the fuse in the circuit. I don't know why I would want to do that, but I can picture a pretty spectacular result!
Yes that could be bad, because you can draw a continuous (not just brief short-circuit) current of less than 30A (so the trailer's main breaker doesn't trip) but more than the 14-gauge cord capacity.

This is a scenario to be really cautious about; it is not like the original poster's question about plugging a 30A trailer into a 50A campsite. I would use this setup only if I were sure I would not be using any significant power. It would be prudent in this case to turn off the circuit breaker in the trailer for the air conditioner, and for any other circuit which is not needed, to reduce the chance of an accidental overload if you forget that you only have the skinny cord. If only one 15-amp circuit is left on, the load is safely managed to match the 14-gauge cord.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ Joe View Post
If the 50A breaker can provide adequate protection for a 30A trailer, why do campgrounds have a separate 30A breaker instead of just tying the 30A receptacle to the 50A breaker to reduce costs.
As explained earlier, the 50A breaker provides adequate protection for short circuits, not for continued use. If someone plugs anything using more than 30 amps into the 30-amp receptacle, the 50-amp breaker would not prevent overloading of that receptacle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
I made one of these as a way to use a light cord when plugging into a 15/20 amp receptacle. It also gives me a practical way to carry a spare Marinco twist lock connector since that can be difficult to replace on the road.
I did the same, for another trailer with 50-amp service (not our Escape-sized trailer with 30-amp service, but the idea is the same). Like Parker I used an extension cord, and replaced the female connector end with the Marinco twist-lock, but I used a very short one; I only use the resulting adapter with a regular extension cord.
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Old 10-23-2014, 06:22 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I however feel that there is little possibility you can exceed the 30 amp wire capacity in your Escape unless intentionally done.
I can see it accidentally occurring - most likely from cooking with electricity (microwave, kettle, toaster) especially while running the air conditioner. The 30-amp main breaker in the Escape is there to prevent this from being a safety risk.
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Old 10-23-2014, 06:28 PM   #26
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As for sites with only 50-amp receptacles and no 30-amp (so you would need the adapter)... yes, I've seen that. Carrying the adapter makes some sense, but on the other hand 30-amp sites seem much more common than 50-amp in most of the areas I've been in. It certainly varies by location and type of campground/park.
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Old 10-23-2014, 06:59 PM   #27
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I've had to use a 50 amp to 30 amp adapter in a few sites on my last trip - out of 119 campgrounds, I found 3 that were 50 amp only. I also used it a couple of times when the 30 amp receptacle was badly worn & the 50 amp was in better shape.
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Old 10-23-2014, 08:03 PM   #28
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I'm going to go out on a limb here, but using a cord rated for 20 amps (#12 wire) to pull more than 20 amps from a 50 amp plug is not going to damage the 50 amp circuit nor will it pop the 50 amp breaker. The most likely scenario is that the 20 amp rated cord will heat up, possibly to the point that it will melt, which would likely create a short circuit that would pop the 50 amp breaker when the hot conducted comes in contact with the neutral line. Unless the cord is sitting on dry grass which could catch on fire, the only likely casualty would be (destruction of) the 12 gauge cord because the 30 amp main breaker in the trailer will not do its job until it's capacity is exceeded. Exceeding wire capacity in the confines of enclosed walls in houses can have potentially serious fire consequences. Even the plug on a window air conditioner can get warm to touch. When it gets too hot to touch, the wire's capacity has been dangerously exceeded. The real danger is electrocution. Should the insulation melt without shorting out and popping the 50 amp breaker and someone contacts bare conductors, well, someone gets shocked. The safest thing to do is to use the 30 amp cord to match the capacity of the trailer's 30 amp main breaker. If it is plugged into a 20 amp circuit and the 20 amp circuit's capacity is exceeded, it's breaker should pop. And it is doubtful this would happen unless the A/C and some other big draw device were in use at the same time. If there were no 30 amp outlet and I had a choice of 50 amp or 20 amp, I personally would use the 20 amp with an adapter. No big deal if I pop the 20 amp breaker. Just don't run everything at the same time.
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Old 10-23-2014, 08:18 PM   #29
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What's that expression Jon? Great minds....

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Old 10-23-2014, 08:43 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C&G in FL View Post
I'm going to go out on a limb here, but using a cord rated for 20 amps (#12 wire) to pull more than 20 amps from a 50 amp plug...
The safest thing to do is to use the 30 amp cord to match the capacity of the trailer's 30 amp main breaker...
If there were no 30 amp outlet and I had a choice of 50 amp or 20 amp, I personally would use the 20 amp with an adapter. No big deal if I pop the 20 amp breaker. Just don't run everything at the same time.
I agree that a 20-amp cord with up to 30 amps of load is a bad combination... but to me that doesn't lead to choosing the 20-amp receptacle over the 50-amp: using the 50-amp receptacle with a suitable adapter to the trailer's 30-amp cord means everything is within its rated capacity, and there is no need to specially limit how much electrical power is used.
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