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Old 02-20-2013, 12:49 AM   #41
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How does it occur to you that you have messed up? Where does the leak show up?
I'm fairly confident that it never got cold enough this winter, but I need to ask.
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:24 AM   #42
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How does it occur to you that you have messed up? Where does the leak show up?
I'm fairly confident that it never got cold enough this winter, but I need to ask.
Mine showed up in the spring once I pressured up the system.
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:48 AM   #43
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Glenn

Word on the street is Jim or I could probably direct you to a good valve supplier.
Truth
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
How does it occur to you that you have messed up? Where does the leak show up?
I'm fairly confident that it never got cold enough this winter, but I need to ask.
Let's just say it is a good thing it is inside the waterproof bathroom walls.
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:02 PM   #44
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Hi Glenn

On the end of the plug is an anode that will be frozen into a block of ice, if you put a wrench on it and turn it will probably snap off the anode rod.
This is what I am most worried about. But I assume multiple freeze / thaw cycles won't be good for it either. I think I should wait for the first above zero day, and carefully try to get it out. What's worse, snapping the anode, or potentially having water freeze and thaw multiple times inside that water heater??

I think I have to accept this learning experience is going to cost me some money no matter what...

I'll be more prepared for next year
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:18 PM   #45
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I just tried to get that drain plug out, no luck. I didn't try that hard and based on the rust on it I would guess it has never been opened... It was kept in a heated garage so they didn't have to think about winterizing.

It's going to be a "steep" learning curve for this newbie
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:40 PM   #46
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If you have a small electric heater you could put it so that it blew hot air onto the hot water heater for a day or so to thaw it out. I'd do that with the low point drain open and the kitchen faucets open. Then as the water heater thaws it should run out the low point drain as long as the shut off valve to the water heater is open. (The plug is always a bit hard to get started and if yours has never been out then it might take a bit of force to start.)

And don't feel bad, most all of us have stories about things we have done wrong to our trailers - and in many cases after we should have already known better!
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:01 PM   #47
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I'm not sure that water from the heater would go out the low point drain. That's why you take out the anode and open the pressure relief valve when winterizing.
Agreed, it could take some force to remove that anode.
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:20 PM   #48
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And, I'm not taking responsibility, but if you are using a 13/16 socket ( as required ) and the head on the anode hasn't been rounded by vice-grips, used in the past, you can add leverage to your socket wrench with a piece of pipe. Slip a couple feet of pipe over the socket handle and apply gentle pressure.
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:59 AM   #49
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I'm not sure that water from the heater would go out the low point drain. That's why you take out the anode and open the pressure relief valve when winterizing.
Agreed, it could take some force to remove that anode.
Glenn I am trying to visualize the system, but I THINK that water should drain out of the water heater at the low point drain if a faucet is open to allow inlet air. Your mention of the pressure relief valve is good too, as opening that might help too. I usually think of taking out the anode as an access to flush out the water heater and check out the anode and to make sure the tank is completely empty, but maybe it is the only way to drain it.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:23 AM   #50
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I'm not sure that water from the heater would go out the low point drain. That's why you take out the anode and open the pressure relief valve when winterizing.
Agreed, it could take some force to remove that anode.
You are correct, it is not plumbed to accommodate draining out the low point, and the water heater is sloped to the exterior which helps it drain better there.
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... using a 13/16 socket
1 1/16", I thought.

If you are absolutely certain there is water (ice) in the heater, I see no reason at all to not turn the element on to melt the ice. Don't run it without water though, or you might have to follow the tutorial I made to change it out when I accidentally did just that. :
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