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Old 03-06-2017, 10:09 AM   #41
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Thanks. The Prowatt has pretty much the same specs as the GoPower for substantially less $. Still debating between the 1000 and the 2000, only a $60 price difference but easier to wire and fit.
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Old 03-06-2017, 10:10 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
I'm with Alton Brown on 'unitasker' kitchen gadgets.

The 'Unitasker' Kitchen Gadgets Alton Brown Loves To Loathe : The Salt : NPR
So funny, I posted on my facebook.
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Old 03-12-2017, 11:51 AM   #43
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Another inverter to look into, Magnum CSW1012.

1000W 12VDC Pure Sine Inverter CSW Series | Magnum Dimensions
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Old 03-12-2017, 01:12 PM   #44
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Hate to be a contrarian but my view is sort of, go big or go home. Seriously, I think that if a person wants a hefty inverter that will easily handle loads like a microwave, then 1500 watts or more is a better size. If a person doesn't need to handle larger loads then just get a smaller one, in the few hundred watts range.

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Old 03-12-2017, 01:39 PM   #45
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I'd have to rework all the electronics under the back seat of the dinette to fit an inverter that big. Don't need the MW that bad. I do wish there was a 1200w'er for a decent price, that'd be ideal, for me.
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Old 03-12-2017, 03:22 PM   #46
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I have been pleased with this unit in my 21. I power it off when not in use. It ships with 3 feet of two gauge wire, this does two things: simplify installation and forces you to place it next to the batteries. To install it properly you will need to enlarge or create a new hole in the battery box and use duct seal to keep the battery box air tight. This unit requires dual six volt batteries to operate properly.

If you have a model other than a 21 some of the advantages I mention might make you look elsewhere, this has to be near the battery or the cost of cable will kill the project. Finding cable of the correct length and gauge with the proper connector is a PITA.

There are several other sizes available. It works well with a 700 watt microwave and our Shark corded vacuum. Have not tried a hair dryer.

KRIËGER KR1500 1500W 12V Power Inverter with Dual 110V AC Outlets and Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DNL05GW..._xKAXybVX204M3

$139
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Old 03-12-2017, 04:44 PM   #47
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Paul, any idea how does Duct Seal compares to Butyl seal tape? I use the butyl but swear I can smell the batteries when they go into equalization.
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Old 03-12-2017, 06:52 PM   #48
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Bob,
From all appearances the Duct Seal is the same product that Escape used during installation. Like you, I have experienced those rotten eggs at high charge rates. Fortunately, we are so often in tree cover it "ain't gonna happen"' with 120 watts of panel and a single tree. I will invariably get blocked from enough sun to keep the charge rates below rotten eggs.

The gas is suppose to rise, I question how much rise there is in that hose between the battery box and outlet, make sure it is not sagging. On my box, the battery is pressed against the box, this would limit the gas from exiting. Something to give a bit of a gap at the exhaust port of the box.

That plastic lined foam pad in the lid of the battery box can easily be mis aligned with the box, not sure of what is a better solution. Be sure it has not been over compressed or shifted. I found I had to add Duct Seal to the exhisting material that Escape installed at build time.
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Old 03-12-2017, 09:46 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
While it has a fan, I've never heard it come on. It is either quiet enough that I can't hear it through the bed (it is under the driver's side seat under a permanent bed) or it hasn't reached the temperature necessary to turn it on.

Since I've used it with a 600 watt microwave drawing 95 amps on the 12V side for 8 minutes, I suspect the former.

I've used it at least one a week to make toast, coffee or the microwave for 5 years without problems.
I have used a Xantrex Prowatt 1000 watt Sine wave inverter in my off grid cabin for at least 12 years. It supplies me with all my 120V needs ... microwave, computers, printers, lights, kitchen modern inconveniences, and my Toyo diesel heater. I have only had one power failure in 12 years and that was when my first Prowatt inverter died after 5 years of continuous use. [ I was doing an inside remodel and generating lots of very fine sawdust.... I think it got warm enough that the cooling fan came on and it sucked in enough sawdust to short out something in the circuitry ... my fault - not the inverters fault.]

Now inverter circuitry is pretty well understood and I doubt that any one brand is much different than another. I'd just stay away from the very cheapest models... fear of low quality components.

Before I bought my seine wave inverter, I had a modified (square) wave inverter and all my electrical needs were well met with the exception of my Toyo heater. On start up, there seemed to be too long of a delay between when the unit wanted full power to start and when it was supplied by the inverter. The Toyo would shut down thinking there was a power supply issue. Had to do more with the Toyo circuitry than the inverter's. I have no idea how sensitive our trailer's heater or refer circuitry is.

Tom
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