12V AGM Battery for a 21

[matt]

Looking at my build sheet the only option I see for the battery is the standard group 27 12v or the 2 6v batteries. I am not inclined to go with the 6v batteries or the solar. I have read several posts on this site addressing concerns with the 21 having the battery inside the trailer (venting issues). If I am staying with a 12v battery would an AGM battery be a good way to go? My local Sam's Club sells the Duracell Platinum AGM Marine/RV Deep Cycle batteries. The group 27 is $159. They also sell a group 34 AGM. I am not an electrical wizard by any stretch so l have no idea if an AGM battery would be compatible with my Escape trailer. Thank you.

[Ron in BC]

I'm not sure what the situation is. ETI needs the trailer to go out the door with a functioning battery. Are you thinking of asking them to delete their batteries and install yours?

The AGM battery is fine. Two 12's are better.

Ron

[matt]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

I'm not sure what the situation is. ETI needs the trailer to go out the door with a functioning battery. Are you thinking of asking them to delete their batteries and install yours?

The AGM battery is fine. Two 12's are better.

Ron

If ETI would give me credit for deleting the standard battery I could bring the AGM battery with me. Otherwise I could just switch them out when I got home.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by matt

If ETI would give me credit for deleting the standard battery I could bring the AGM battery with me. Otherwise I could just switch them out when I got home.

This is what I did. I brought two of my own 6V AGMs. Escape will not eliminate the battery box and vent though. I do like them in the box anyway, but would have preferred no vent.

[cpaharley2008]

I ordered the group 29 battery for my 21 which was fine for a year but decided to go with dual 6ers due to a sale at Sam's Club. The advantage of the group 29 is it's size, Escape installed it in the dual 6ers box so it was an easy upgrade.

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

... but would have preferred no vent.

Not sure the best way to engineer it yet, but for anyone with a portable solar panel/controller combo who wants to wire it directly to the on-board battery terminals, that battery box vent opening gives you a straight shot from outside the trailer to the battery's terminals without having to drill new holes in the fiberglass shell or the plastic battery box. Just feed the wires into the camper using the same pathway that the battery gases escape out. Or so it seems.....

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I ordered the group 29 battery for my 21.....The advantage of the group 29 is it's size, Escape installed it in the dual 6ers box so it was an easy upgrade.

I did too, however that was just luck wasn't it. ETI doesn't say the box for the stock Group 27 battery is smaller and wont accommodate 2 6V batteries do they?

[Santiago]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

Not sure the best way to engineer it yet, but for anyone with a portable solar panel/controller combo who wants to wire it directly to the on-board battery terminals, that battery box vent opening gives you a straight shot from outside the trailer to the battery's terminals without having to drill new holes in the fiberglass shell or the plastic battery box. Just feed the wires into the camper using the same pathway that the battery gases escape out. Or so it seems.....

Dale, if you ran cabling from roof solar panels you would have to fix cabling to rear wall in a way it won't "vibrate" beating on the shell wall. I had that wet cell battery vent back there as well but was never used for it's intended purpose as I installed 4 6v Lifeline AGMs which as you know can be installed inside with no out gassing.

[Kent]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

Not sure the best way to engineer it yet, but for anyone with a portable solar panel/controller combo who wants to wire it directly to the on-board battery terminals, that battery box vent opening gives you a straight shot from outside the trailer to the battery's terminals without having to drill new holes in the fiberglass shell or the plastic battery box. Just feed the wires into the camper using the same pathway that the battery gases escape out. Or so it seems.....

War Eagle that peaks my interest would the Furrion Solar Port fill and cover the vent hole? I plan on having ETI install this on my build and already have the solar port and matching connector that's wired to the portable Solar panel.

[Kent]

Probably help if I upload this picture as well.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

Not sure the best way to engineer it yet, but for anyone with a portable solar panel/controller combo who wants to wire it directly to the on-board battery terminals, that battery box vent opening gives you a straight shot from outside the trailer to the battery's terminals without having to drill new holes in the fiberglass shell or the plastic battery box. Just feed the wires into the camper using the same pathway that the battery gases escape out. Or so it seems.....

That could work if you are using portable solar only, and have the controller on the panel. I have to tie the portable in before the onboard controller for the fixed panels.

[War Eagle]

Kent, It's not obvious from the outside what size hole ETI actually bore through the shell, but I'm guessing around 2" diameter. I'll try to remember dig under the dinette bench and measure it tomorrow. But the outside covering is 4 1/4" square with screws at 3 1/4" centers. Keep in mind that if you have a battery that off-gasses through that vent, you would not want to block the air flow.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Kent

War Eagle that peaks my interest would the Furrion Solar Port fill and cover the vent hole? I plan on having ETI install this on my build and already have the solar port and matching connector that's wired to the portable Solar panel.

This would be a good use of the vent hole. Too bad for me it is placed on the door side of the trailer.

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by Kent

Probably help if I upload this picture as well.

Do you know the diameter of that round ridge on the back side that would have to fit down into the fiberglass shell in order for the outer flange to lay flush against the side of the shell?

[Kent]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

Kent, It's not obvious from the outside what size hole ETI actually bore through the shell, but I'm guessing around 2" diameter. I'll try to remember dig under the dinette bench and measure it tomorrow. But the outside covering is 4 1/4" square with screws at 3 1/4" centers. Keep in mind that if you have a battery that off-gasses through that vent, you would not want to block the air flow.

Definitely understand purpose of vent, but if you had AGM would the vent be necessary?

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by Kent

Definitely understand purpose of vent, but if you had AGM would the vent be necessary?

I believe not, but I just wanted to cover all the bases for those on the forum who might be risk management enthusiasts.

[padlin]

Don't know about he new body style, but on my classic, the vent is behind the spare. As it sits, you barely have room to get your hand to the vent, I doubt I have room to work a connector in there.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by padlin

Don't know about he new body style, but on my classic, the vent is behind the spare. As it sits, you barely have room to get your hand to the vent, I doubt I have room to work a connector in there.

I think that has more to do with the dinette and where the batteries are placed than the body style. Those with u-shape dinettes, the batteries are along the back wall and vents behind the spare tire. Those with regular dinettes, the batteries are along the passenger side of the trailer and vents just below the rear marker light.

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

This is what I did. I brought two of my own 6V AGMs. Escape will not eliminate the battery box and vent though. I do like them in the box anyway, but would have preferred no vent.

I suspect that Escapes reasoning is that, sure you may not need the vent with your current AGM batteries, but if those batteries ever need to be replaced (and maybe the trailer is owned by someone else at that time), they may decide to go back to a style of batteries that requires venting.

[War Eagle]

I imagine RV construction regulations in Canada dictate much of what ETI can and can't do regarding on-board batteries and venting - type of battery notwithstanding.