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Old 12-02-2015, 11:38 PM   #21
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Brian, I am trying to follow all of this.

On post #5 photo, unfortunately dark but can be enlarged and seen better, I think there are two 15-amp breakers on the right. Believe they are related to the inverter.
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Old 12-03-2015, 12:47 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Floating Cloud View Post
On post #5 photo, unfortunately dark but can be enlarged and seen better, I think there are two 15-amp breakers on the right. Believe they are related to the inverter.
I saw that, but couldn't see enough of the wiring to be sure of the arrangement.

When the inverter is used, do all of the AC outlets work, or just one or two? If it is just one circuit which is inverter-powered, then that breaker box is probably for the circuit(s) powered by the inverter.
If the inverter powers everything when it is on... well, I'm not sure yet why the separate breaker box.
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Old 12-03-2015, 01:12 AM   #23
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Yes, we have all 120s working with the inverter. Think it is possible to have only one.

We were told there were inverter breakers and we thought those were the ones, however, I am wondering if that box could be connected to the heating pads that came with the spray foam? The switch for those is under the driver's side dinette.
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Old 12-03-2015, 01:53 AM   #24
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[QUOTE=Brian B-P;119871
If the inverter powers everything when it is on... well, I'm not sure yet why the separate breaker box.[/QUOTE]

Why would there be separate breakers for power going to outlets. Wouldn't the feed from the inverter go to a transfer switch, then go to the panel and then through the panel circuit breakers to the outlets?

We're counting on you Brian to figure this one out.

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Old 12-03-2015, 02:04 AM   #25
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Yes, we paid for the transfer switch. Transfer switch and heat pads both labeled in photo. Heat pads lower right.
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Old 12-03-2015, 02:11 AM   #26
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Heat pads 20. Hope that is both because it is not plural and that is all I see. Think there is only one switch.
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:22 AM   #27
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There should be another switch to turn the heat pads on/off, mine was under the bed in the 19' and was a silver toggle switch. You may want to modify that switch and install a indicator light to remind you when the pads are on/off, similar to the water heater reminder.
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Old 12-03-2015, 08:17 AM   #28
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The 120V side of the distribution panel is fed from the shore power cord and has only one bus. All unswitched (shore power only) circuits come from the panel - 120V water heater, Air Conditioner, 120V fridge, microwave if not switched.

All switched (transfer and inverter OR shore power) circuits use the auxiliary breaker box. I like having 2 (or more) breakers in it so you can use more than 15A when on shore power - if you spread the load across 2 or more circuits. ETI wired ours (one of the very early ETI transfer switch installs) with only one breaker - all outlets were on 1 15A circuit so I rewired it. 19' 110V Electrical mods
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Old 12-03-2015, 02:24 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Why would there be separate breakers for power going to outlets. Wouldn't the feed from the inverter go to a transfer switch, then go to the panel and then through the panel circuit breakers to the outlets?
That makes sense for an inverter which feeds all 120V AC loads in the trailer - no extra panel (breaker box) needed. On the other hand, if only some circuits are fed from the inverter, then the transfer switch and a separate sub-panel (the small breaker box) handle those select circuits... thus my question.

The mystery to me was that Cathy believes that she has all circuits powered by the inverter, yet has the extra panel.

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Originally Posted by jamman View Post
The 120V side of the distribution panel is fed from the shore power cord and has only one bus. All unswitched (shore power only) circuits come from the panel - 120V water heater, Air Conditioner, 120V fridge, microwave if not switched.

All switched (transfer and inverter OR shore power) circuits use the auxiliary breaker box. I like having 2 (or more) breakers in it so you can use more than 15A when on shore power - if you spread the load across 2 or more circuits. ETI wired ours (one of the very early ETI transfer switch installs) with only one breaker - all outlets were on 1 15A circuit so I rewired it. 19' 110V Electrical mods
This makes perfect sense for the "only some circuits on inverter" scenario. The extra box is a sub-panel: it is downstream in the power flow, fed from the transfer switch. The transfer switch inputs are shore power from the main panel, and power from the inverter otherwise.

Cathy, it appears that only some circuits can be powered by the inverter - the ones connected to the sub-panel (the small breaker box). This makes perfect sense, because the circuits that cannot be inverter-powered ("shore power only", as Doug explained) are the ones which you logically would not want to power from the battery, as shown in your main panel photo:
  • Converter
    • you can't charge the battery with the battery
  • fridge
    • if you run the refrigerator on the battery, you use 12V DC directly, not 120V AC
  • H/W
    • "Hot Water": this is the electric element in the water heater
    • you would only use propane when depending on battery power
    • this inverter cannot supply as much power as the water heater element takes
  • A/C
    • the air conditioner needs far too much power to run on battery
    • the air conditioner takes more power than the inverter can supply
  • Transfer Switch
    • this is how shore power (when available) gets to the switch and then the sub-panel to run everything else
So all of the outlets work on inverter power, but not all of the 120V AC electrical stuff.

Labels on the sub-panel (grey box of breakers) should list all of the circuits that can be powered by the inverter. This should include all outlets, including the one for the microwave.

This combination of two panels and a transfer switch, with each 120V AC circuit attached to the appropriate panel, seems like the ideal configuration to me. Not really simple to undertand, but good.
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Old 12-03-2015, 02:28 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floating Cloud View Post
Heat pads 20. Hope that is both because it is not plural and that is all I see. Think there is only one switch.
Presumably that covers both pads, with a total of 240 watts (20 amps multiplied by 12 volts). This is just the protective fuse, not a way to turn them on and off, so I agree with Jim...
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
There should be another switch to turn the heat pads on/off, mine was under the bed in the 19' and was a silver toggle switch. You may want to modify that switch and install a indicator light to remind you when the pads are on/off, similar to the water heater reminder.
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