Adding a 30 A 12V circuit - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 03-26-2015, 07:34 PM   #11
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All this talk of fuses has me wondering what Canadians are supposed to do now that the penny has been withdrawn from circulation.
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Old 03-26-2015, 07:45 PM   #12
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All this talk of fuses has me wondering what Canadians are supposed to do now that the penny has been withdrawn from circulation.
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:00 PM   #13
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...

Now I need to clarify the proper wiring; the positive would go to either 12V circuit # 10 or 11 and the negative to the upper buss bar on the left....
I strongly recommend you do NOT use the negative you have indicated - that is for 110V wiring. Mixing 12V and 110V wiring is NOT a good idea.
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:16 PM   #14
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Is the radio load that inductive that you need to series the fuses?
I don't know; I just don't have the knowledge or experience with the radio. I'm hoping someone else goes first on this project and I can learn from them.
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:24 PM   #15
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My vote would be to not use the panel because of the multiple connections already in the circuit. On my trailer at least, ETI wires the battery ground to the exposed frame; then about 18" away connects the ground from the panel. My view is that exposed connections like that will likely develop corrosion and a higher resistance.

So for a high draw load like yours I'd tend to wire it directly to the battery.

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Old 03-26-2015, 08:50 PM   #16
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I strongly recommend you do NOT use the negative you have indicated - that is for 110V wiring. Mixing 12V and 110V wiring is NOT a good idea.
Thanks for that info, Doug, this is definitely a learning process for me and now I know I should go directly to the batteries. Now gotta figure the attachment point for a pair of 6V batteries.
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Old 03-26-2015, 09:07 PM   #17
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... On my trailer at least, ETI wires the battery ground to the exposed frame; then about 18" away connects the ground from the panel. ...Ron
Well now, THAT is very interesting. When we were at Escape Trailer Industries in November, among the questions I asked was if the ground was a wired ground or through the frame.
On the noon factory tour, Crystal rounded up one of the electrical assemblers, who told me it was a wired ground.
I am most concerned with high amp loads such as the trailer brakes, but electronic devices also love good grounding.
When I go to pick up my 17, I'll have to remember to take some extra wire; got to have good grounding. Chassis grounding, with the associated potential (yeah, pun intended) for corrosion, is not the best.
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Old 03-26-2015, 09:47 PM   #18
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I use this for wire sizing:

Voltage Drop Calculator
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Old 03-26-2015, 10:26 PM   #19
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I asked was if the ground was a wired ground or through the frame.
On the noon factory tour, Crystal rounded up one of the electrical assemblers, who told me it was a wired ground.
I am most concerned with high amp loads such as the trailer brakes, but electronic devices also love good grounding.
Well, it is a wired ground, just not quite a fully wired ground.

This photo shows the set-up. Battery ground to frame. The ground to the panel continues on the other side held by the bolt protruding on the left. This photo was taken when it was less than 2 weeks old. You can see rust forming already and I know that when copper wire strands are exposed like that corrosion develops not only at the end but for quite a ways along the wire. It's difficult enough to keep batteries fully charged. Seems a shame to waste energy with degrading wiring.

I left the factory ones in place but paralleled them with a continuous cable when I installed my battery switch and second battery.

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Old 03-26-2015, 10:51 PM   #20
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...This photo shows the set-up. Battery ground to frame. ...
I left the factory ones in place but paralleled them with a continuous cable when I installed my battery switch and second battery.

Ron
Ron,
Thanks for the info and photo. The paralleled continuous ground cable sound like the operative plan.
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