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Old 09-21-2015, 11:21 AM   #11
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We have 2 panels on the 5.0ta. We use about 20 to 30 amp hours a day and the batteries are recharge to full in about 3 hours next day. 2 panels because we may be dry csmping in cloudy weather. We have 1500 watt inverter and use microwave, toaster, drip coffee and tv all off 120volts. So far 2 panels are grrrrreat.
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Old 09-21-2015, 12:06 PM   #12
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I think that I'd be really easy to design a slide-in, slide-out mount so that the panel could be used as a portable unit also.

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Old 09-21-2015, 01:37 PM   #13
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I think that I'd be really easy to design a slide-in, slide-out mount so that the panel could be used as a portable unit also.

Ron
Got my interest Ron . Where would you put slide in , slide out on 19 ? Pat
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Old 09-21-2015, 02:25 PM   #14
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Got my interest Ron . Where would you put slide in , slide out on 19 ? Pat
How about the front window rock guard?
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Old 09-21-2015, 02:55 PM   #15
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How about the front window rock guard?
I have seen this done a few times. The problem I see is that it would not do as good while driving, and even stationary. Maybe if you could dismount it when camped. Plus, it would be susceptible to more damage, and not look very nice either.
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Old 09-21-2015, 03:40 PM   #16
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I have seen this done a few times. The problem I see is that it would not do as good while driving, and even stationary. Maybe if you could dismount it when camped. Plus, it would be susceptible to more damage, and not look very nice either.
You're probable right Jim, but what I thought the poster was asking is, 'where to put a portable solar panel to keep it secure when away from the trailer'. I was thinking three lengths of aluminum channel affixed to the rock guard's two sides and bottom (so it won't fall), then slide the panel in from the top. Raise the rock guard to angle at the sun. Remove and store when traveling.
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Old 09-21-2015, 04:10 PM   #17
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I am trying to get myself up to speed on which way to go on this. I am not sure how the portables would be wired through the ETI supplied controller. I have read some people just directly feed the portables to the batteries but I don't want the batteries over charged which could happen with bypassing the controller. Do you know if the controller can handle the input from the smaller portable solar panels as well as the roof mounted ones at the same time?
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Old 09-21-2015, 04:16 PM   #18
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Two thoughts. I don't think the front rock guard is substantial enough to accommodate the weight of a solar panel.

And, I have two portable 40W panels. They each came with a 7W controller, but two can be plugged into one via a hub. I don't think they are capable of overcharging a battery.
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Old 09-21-2015, 04:20 PM   #19
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Has anyone had experience with using the 160w panel and controller, and had Reese wire for portable panels?
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Old 09-21-2015, 04:45 PM   #20
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I am trying to get myself up to speed on which way to go on this. I am not sure how the portables would be wired through the ETI supplied controller. I have read some people just directly feed the portables to the batteries but I don't want the batteries over charged which could happen with bypassing the controller. Do you know if the controller can handle the input from the smaller portable solar panels as well as the roof mounted ones at the same time?
I'm not sure what controller Escape is currently using, but they generally have an amperage rating that you should not exceed. The GoPower controller I received with my optional 95 watt panel on my 2011 17B is rated at 25 amps. I have a 160 watt portable panel that has a built in controller that I have connected to the 7 pin trailer connector. It works, however I wanted to be able to use the built in GoPower controller so I could monitor the total charging current. I added wiring to the input of the GoPower controller, bypassed the controller on the portable panel, and added a connector on the back of the trailer.

I've also added a 100 watt panel on the roof of the 17, so the only time need to add the portable panel is if I'm parked in the shade.
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