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Old 12-18-2015, 10:46 AM   #51
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Thanks to all. I'll be running both the fixed rooftop panel and the portable panel thru the main controller. If the suitcase portable has a controller I'll remove it and replace with a male 110 plug,then extension cord(s) to an ETI installed plug and run to the controller.

John
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Old 12-18-2015, 10:58 AM   #52
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John - have you talked to Reace about installing the receptacle on the trailer and wiring to go into the controller?
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Old 12-18-2015, 11:10 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John David View Post
Thanks to all. I'll be running both the fixed rooftop panel and the portable panel thru the main controller. If the suitcase portable has a controller I'll remove it and replace with a male 110 plug,then extension cord(s) to an ETI installed plug and run to the controller.

John
It would be best to use something besides a 110 volt plug. Too much risk of someone plugging in real 110 volt power accidently. There are special purpose low voltage connectors out there. I used an SAE connector like my little panel came with. Murphy is alive and well.
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Old 12-18-2015, 11:15 AM   #54
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What is a good waterproof DC power inlet? Most of the ones I see are meant as outlets. I would not want the end of the cord from the portable solar panels to be exposed like on devices that plug in.
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Old 12-18-2015, 11:26 AM   #55
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What is a good waterproof DC power inlet? Most of the ones I see are meant as outlets. I would not want the end of the cord from the portable solar panels to be exposed like on devices that plug in.
Jim this is the best one I have so far located: MinnKota 12V

It takes up to 8 gauge wire or even 6 on the plug side with an adapter.

I sent that link to Reace to see if he will install it for me when the time comes - haven't heard back yet.
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Old 12-18-2015, 11:29 AM   #56
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An Anderson plug connection would work well. 15$ -- Rated 50 A and accepts up to AWG 6 wire. here's a link.
The 12 Volt Shop Htmls/webcat2003/plugs2.html


I have talked to ETI about them doing the wire run from main on-board controller to outside of trailer. I feel its important to get ETI to do all wiring inside the trailer and FRP shell drillings during fab as these tasks done afterwards are problematic.
We may go with a typical power cord outlet interface. The same kind that ETI uses for the cord to connect to RV sites. The Anderson plug would be loose inside the cavity. Just flip up the cover, reach in an pull out the Anderson and connect, then close the cover with a small horseshoe hole for the #6 cable.
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Old 12-18-2015, 11:54 AM   #57
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John are you confident in the Anderson connection being good for repeated connection/disconnection cycles?
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Old 12-18-2015, 12:01 PM   #58
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Jim this is the best one I have so far located: MinnKota 12V

It takes up to 8 gauge wire or even 6 on the plug side with an adapter.

I sent that link to Reace to see if he will install it for me when the time comes - haven't heard back yet.
As this is an outlet, and not an inlet, I worry about the exposed hot contacts from the panels. I would prefer an inlet fitting, where the male contacts are housed inside the trailer side connector, and the cable end has the female contacts.

I know it is not a huge deal with it being just 12V, just something I was hoping to avoid.
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Old 12-18-2015, 12:05 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by John David View Post
An Anderson plug connection would work well. 15$ -- Rated 50 A and accepts up to AWG 6 wire. here's a link.
The 12 Volt Shop Htmls/webcat2003/plugs2.html


I have talked to ETI about them doing the wire run from main on-board controller to outside of trailer. I feel its important to get ETI to do all wiring inside the trailer and FRP shell drillings during fab as these tasks done afterwards are problematic.
We may go with a typical power cord outlet interface. The same kind that ETI uses for the cord to connect to RV sites. The Anderson plug would be loose inside the cavity. Just flip up the cover, reach in an pull out the Anderson and connect, then close the cover with a small horseshoe hole for the #6 cable.
Using a covered hatch with a loose cord end is a workable option. I would much prefer something you just plug into though.

Let the search continue.
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Old 12-18-2015, 12:10 PM   #60
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Yes, these are used widely on portable power boxes with removable cables for starting cars. They connect the box to your cable clamps. BTW you can get them for AWG#8 to 4 if desired. Using the std ETI flap cover for RV park power connection I would probably make the Anderson plug connection and shove the plug inside the trailer . That way t he connection is not exposed to the elements. ETI says installing the connection on the trailer shell is a $35 option. They install the cover thru the shell at my specified location, run the wires from the main controller and cap them inside the trailer at the cover. I add the Anderson connection at my leisure. Using the std ETI cover also gives me another access port into the trailer which is nice.
The Minnkota plug looks good too and provides a smaller footprint but is limited on wire size. I'm also a little worried that it will look like a 110 V connector and may be mis-used. With the Anderson there is no chance that a 110 could be connected.
John
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