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Old 10-27-2018, 01:00 PM   #1
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Breakaway switch fuse/breaker

So, I've had my head in the 7 pin J-box inside the trailer while working on my solar installation.

Currently the hot lead from the 7 pin connector is connected by a wirenut to the breakaway switch lead , and a jumper from the positive battery lead...that is connected to the ETI installed 30 amp stud mount circuit breaker.

BUT this hot connection to the breakaway circuit is on the battery side of the breaker, not the "protected" side of the breaker. So, the breakaway circuit and brake coils are not protected by a fuse or circuit breaker. The "The Last Escape 15A Wiring" schematic, shows the connection to the brakes on the downstream side of the breaker.

After arguing with myself about the benefits of both methods, I need some input from the experts. Should the breakaway circuit be protected by a breaker or fuse? What's normal...or right?

Glenn
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Old 10-27-2018, 01:18 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeldomSeen View Post
The "The Last Escape 15A Wiring" schematic
Where do I find this schematic ?

Thanks
Pat (the guy who found his 15a)
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Old 10-27-2018, 01:21 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeldomSeen View Post
So, I've had my head in the 7 pin J-box inside the trailer while working on my solar installation.

Currently the hot lead from the 7 pin connector is connected by a wirenut to the breakaway switch lead , and a jumper from the positive battery lead...that is connected to the ETI installed 30 amp stud mount circuit breaker.

BUT this hot connection to the breakaway circuit is on the battery side of the breaker, not the "protected" side of the breaker. So, the breakaway circuit and brake coils are not protected by a fuse or circuit breaker. The "The Last Escape 15A Wiring" schematic, shows the connection to the brakes on the downstream side of the breaker.

After arguing with myself about the benefits of both methods, I need some input from the experts. Should the breakaway circuit be protected by a breaker or fuse? What's normal...or right?

Glenn
Escape now installs a 40 amp fuse immediately after the battery connection on the 8 ga positive lead which then feeds the distribution panel and the breakaway circuit. Without the fuse, a short of the wiring from the battery to the 30 amp breaker could overheat the wiring and create a fire hazard.

Since the breakaway circuit is a safety device, you want to have a failure of the circuit (fuse blown) to be easily detectable. Since the 40 amp fuse that supplies the circuit also supplies the rest of the trailer, there is a high likelihood the blown fuse would be readily noticed and resolved.

See the attached pic - the inline fuse holder is the one that I am referencing.

Here is a source for the fuse and holder:
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-HHX-...mp+inline+fuse
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-M...Z97M5DYARYXTQ0
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Old 10-27-2018, 01:41 PM   #4
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on Casitas, the battery power goes through a 40A self resetting thermal breaker thats kind of hidden. so any unfused short like the breakaway/brake circuit, that breaker would open, and when the short went away, close again. this seems like a good safety compromise, giving the max probability of the emergency breakaway braking engaging when needed...
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Old 10-27-2018, 01:47 PM   #5
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on Casitas, the battery power goes through a 40A self resetting thermal breaker thats kind of hidden. so any unfused short like the breakaway/brake circuit, that breaker would open, and when the short went away, close again. this seems like a good safety compromise, giving the max probability of the emergency breakaway braking engaging when needed...
Should work - the power to all the 12v circuits in the trailer would be flashing on and off if the breakaway circuit had a short. That would definitely be noticeable!
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Old 10-27-2018, 03:23 PM   #6
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15A schematic

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lv4toys View Post
Where do I find this schematic ?

Thanks
Pat (the guy who found his 15a)
Here you go! Escape Trailer Owners Community - Downloads - 15A Wiring Diagram

Glenn
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Old 10-27-2018, 03:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
on Casitas, the battery power goes through a 40A self resetting thermal breaker thats kind of hidden. so any unfused short like the breakaway/brake circuit, that breaker would open, and when the short went away, close again. this seems like a good safety compromise, giving the max probability of the emergency breakaway braking engaging when needed...
Yep. That sounds like the right, and easy solution. All I have to do is move the breakaway lead to the other side of the breaker. Kind of scares me to know I've been driving around like that for 5 years.

Glenn
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Old 10-27-2018, 06:25 PM   #8
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It may not be obvious to everyone so users should know that, although very well done, this schematic was done by an owner representing his own trailer. This is not from ETI. That said, it seems reasonably accurate. I did notice though that two of the 7 pin functions listed disagree with the picture of the standard RV plug. Brown and green need to be swapped. Explanation here: Adding After Market Front Storage Box
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Old 10-27-2018, 06:42 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by SeldomSeen View Post
After arguing with myself about the benefits of both methods, I need some input from the experts. Should the breakaway circuit be protected by a breaker or fuse? What's normal...or right?
I think it is done different ways on different trailers. Canít comment as to what is ďrightĒ. I do see that Oliver has nice schematics and shows their breakaway unfused.
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