Clarification on Electrical System for Newbie

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by richardr

...Please let me know where you have 12 volt outlets and what they are used for.

We have a '21 with the optional shelf at the front, over the bed. I will be adding one or two 12V outlets nearby to run my new 12V clock radio. Fortunately I purchased the optional lights for the front of the bed so the wire is there for me to play with.

Other folks have suggested that Escape run a 12V wire behind each cabinet & enclosed space. Sounds like a good idea to me even if nothing is connected at the present.

--
Alan

[ReagentGrade]

If I recall correctly, the 12v drops in the upper cabinets are small gauge wires for low wattage uses like LED lights. I would expect the 12v lighter type outlets to be on a larger gauge wire and would support a larger current draw.

If you plan to have something beefier than lights in the upper cabinets, it would be prudent to make sure ETI knows what you require.

[casejh]

My understanding is that ETI will put 12 volt drops which will be 16 gauge wire, or they will put in a 12 volt outlet which will have 14 gauge wire and be rated for 15 amps.

[Sisababe]

Originally Posted by padlin

Sarah, I have the WeBoost 4G https://store.weboost.com/products/drive-4gs the only issue with it is you need to keep your phone in the cradle for it to work. I also have a prepaid Verizon Hotspot that works in it for cell based wifi. You'll need an antenna on the roof which ETI can do for you if you send it to them. You'll have to get the particulars on that from someone else as I did my own.
I do not have a wifi repeater but I've heard good things about the Wifi Ranger.

Richard, have one under the table for the cell booster and charging phones and readers while in use. The default one is just to the right as you enter the 5.0TA and is for the TV. We have a small counter there so it works out well for charging phones and such as it's out of the way. I think the bathroom is in that location on the 21.

Perfect , thank you Bob.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[ReagentGrade]

Originally Posted by casejh

My understanding is that ETI will put 12 volt drops which will be 16 gauge wire, or they will put in a 12 volt outlet which will have 14 gauge wire and be rated for 15 amps.

John,

Interesting! Your understanding mirrors mine.

My build sheet shows
-- $75 for "12V lighting drops in cabinets"
-- $50 for "12V Interior Outlet"

I'm wondering if you get more than one lighting drop for $75. Otherwise it'd be cheaper to ask for 12V outlets inside the cabinets. This makes me think the $75 gives more than one drop. Or maybe a single set of wires with more than one drop.

In any case, if I want something with a significant current draw, I will ask for a 12V outlet even if it's inside a cabinet.

More things my list of questions to ask when I'm in Chiliwack in Feb.

Rich

[richardr]

Here is the information I received from ETI in an e-mail
"12 volt drops without outlets in cabinets $25.00 each"

My build sheet shows $50 for 12 volt internal outlets and $75 for external outlets or internal outlets with both 12 volt and USB.

[ThomasG]

Originally Posted by casejh

My understanding is that ETI will put 12 volt drops which will be 16 gauge wire, or they will put in a 12 volt outlet which will have 14 gauge wire and be rated for 15 amps.

Recently Sarah at ETI told me the 12v drops are 14 gauge and the 12v outlets are 16 gauge. It seems that one of us has some incorrect information.

[cpaharley2008]

When I ordered a 12v lighting drop under the bed, Escape included a led light also, unmounted. Perhaps that may explain the cost difference?

[Kountrykamper]

I am having 4 - 12 volt drops added at $25 each. ETI is just running a wire in case I want to use at a later date for lighting or something low amperage.

[richardr]

I am trying to get a 12 volt drop in each upper cabinet or large area with low lighting of an Escape 21 to install lights after delivery. However I don't want to duplicate paying for a drop when there is already 12 volt power for something else. Here is my list of 5 drops.
- Under bed
- Under sink
- Above kitchen counter (is this one or 2 cabinets?)
- Above back of dinette
- Bedside just forward of drawer stack (is this a separate cabinet from the one forward of it toward the head of the bed?)

I have not included the following because I think there should already be 12 volt power or it is unneeded.
- Under both side and rear dinette seats (U shaped configuration)
- Head of bed and front cabinet on driver's side of bed have power from the captain's lights
- Above the two side dinette benches due to ordering captain's lights for the back corners.
- Closet and closet above drawer stack should get sufficient light when opening the door
- All the bottom cabinets due to being very shallow
- We are ordering the microwave and cabinet above it is no more

Are there cabinets I'm forgetting, 12 volt power already in the cabinets I'm listing or can power be run through holes drilled between cabinets (I'm thinking of some upper cabinets that are next to each other?

[johnwarrensimpson]

I am doing a critical analysis of my build sheet. 19' completion date May 10. 160 W solar panel, and possibly an external portable panel. Since I am not going to have any high energy appliances there is no need for the inverter. No air conditioning, coffee makers, space heaters, or toasters. It is interesting how much discussion there is about hair dryers. My laptop and smart phone run off batteries anyway and can be charged with 12V. I intend to do a lot of boondocking. I am curious to see how little electricity I will actually be using.
Thanks to everyone for all their support and information.
I am making plans to attend the rally in Osoyoos, the day after I pick up my trailer in Sumas.

[cpaharley2008]

JWS,
Maybe a/c for those hot desert nights in Utah?

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by johnwarrensimpson

I am curious to see how little electricity I will actually be using.

The biggest variable in that situation will be if you use the furnace. It'd be the biggest draw. Without it and solar you could go indefinitely.

Ron

[Greg A]

Agree with the furnace as a main determiner of usage. Lifestyle will also dictate. If you are just boondocking for 3-7 days or an occasional longer stretch it won't compare to usage of a full-timer who is living on the road. My usage for the week at Quartzsite last year averaged 10ah daily with some furnace. That pales in comparison to Jon's daily usage who was living in the desert for 6 months in his 17.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Greg A

Lifestyle will also dictate.

That's the bottom line and why it's difficult to provide a factual answer to these types of questions. For someone who'd like minimum draw and extended range on the batteries another energy and water saver is to install a manual water pump. Despite having full pressure water systems on our boat we mostly used the manual pump. It just became a habit and really saved on water and electrical consumption.

Ron

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by johnwarrensimpson

It is interesting how much discussion there is about hair dryers.

I don't think many people seriously equip a trailer with a solar system and high-output inverter just to run a hair dryer. It's just a convenient example of a simple appliance which takes a lot of power, and doesn't have a propane alternative.

[jensworks]

Hi~
I'm definitely not an electrical person and altho I've got my build sheet done, I'm wondering if one has the inverter transfer to all switches...would you really need any 12v outlets-like next to the 120v plugins?
Thank you,
Larry & Judy

[thoer]

Originally Posted by jensworks

Hi~
I'm definitely not an electrical person and altho I've got my build sheet done, I'm wondering if one has the inverter transfer to all switches...would you really need any 12v outlets-like next to the 120v plugins?
Thank you,
Larry & Judy

The problem with using 120v AC from an inverter for anything requiring DC is there is a lot of inefficiency. When the 12v of the battery is changed into AC by the inverter, there is loss and then if you change that AC again back into DC for charging devices, etc, there is again loss. So ultimately you are using more battery power to do the same work. That may or may not be a large problem as it all depends on your individual power usage.

[float5]

Many hairdryers have low, medium and high settings and there is a big difference among them as to power used. I would indeed think there are people who get an inverter to use a hairdryer and there are those who get it to use a microwave.

Not everything you have may use 12v. We have items, however, that we use our 12v for, including the USB ports.
We may use the 110 or the 12v, depending upon the items.

[jensworks]

Thank you both~that answers my question. :-)
Larry & Judy