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Old 08-06-2016, 07:41 PM   #41
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubal View Post
... The WFCO unit is shipped directly from China with the power converter directly connected to the 12V fused power distribution panel.
That's what I would expect.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubal View Post
... it is hard to believe that they would take the WFCO unit apart to change the 12V circuits.
I agree - it seems like unnecessary work; however, as I listed earlier some members are describing behaviour which suggests that their switches do intercept this internal connection.

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Originally Posted by Jubal View Post
The purpose of the WFCO unit is to provide 12V to the circuits that ETI attached to the fused distribution panel and to charge the battery. The battery cut off/disconnect simply opens the circuit between the battery and the 12V power distribution panel. If the WFCO unit is properly installed and not modified the trailer should have 12V output power to the circuits wired by ETI to the 12V distribution panel when the converter is connected to shore 120V power. The 12V from the converter is not controlled by the battery cut off switch.
This is the second configuration which I listed, described as Converter output on panel side of shutoff switch, and corresponds to what other members described.

Documentation
An owner of any consumer product (including vehicles) normally does not require wiring diagrams to operate it, but instructions are required. Diagrams are only needed for repair or modification. The only reference to the shutoff switch that I can find in a recently downloaded Escape owners manual (which is much more extensive than the manuals for any of the three RVs I own) is this, in the Pre-Travel Checklist:
Quote:
• Position the battery disconnect (if equipped) to the “on” position. This is required to charge the batteries while in tow.
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Old 08-06-2016, 09:26 PM   #42
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Location: Los Osos, California
Trailer: 2014 21 2013 Yukon
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Originally Posted by escape artist View Post
Hi:Jubal... I don't for a minute believe ETI builds a trailer that doesn't meet code. If you have replaced sub gauge wiring and changed minimal electrical standards all ETI's current problems must be because of your complaints to the CSA/ASA.
Maybe its time you traded for a well built "Stickie" that will satisfy your craving for a well built box of chocolates!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
Hello Alf.....So love it or leave it?

There have been several posts relating wires changing color in a run, and know of at least one case where the 2-way water heater was wired to 12V. Maybe to code but not to common sense.
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Old 08-06-2016, 09:29 PM   #43
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
...The only reference to the shutoff switch that I can find in a recently downloaded Escape owners manual (which is much more extensive than the manuals for any of the three RVs I own) is this, in the Pre-Travel Checklist:
Quote:
• Position the battery disconnect (if equipped) to the “on” position. This is required to charge the batteries while in tow.
I just noticed that this is not correct for trailers wired like Steve's 2015 15A (which has the Converter output on panel side of shutoff switch design). In Steve's schematic diagram posted in the EscapeForum document collection it is apparent that the 12 volt supply line from the tow vehicle is always connected to the trailer's battery, regardless of the shutoff switch position.
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Old 08-06-2016, 09:42 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
There have been several posts relating wires changing color in a run...
The change of wire colours in a run came up in a previous thread, and I saw no suggestion of any way around it in the specific cases which were discussed and explained (and further discussed).

There have been issues, of course, but wire colour changes in general are not problems.

Post edited to remove out-of-context quote content.
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Old 08-06-2016, 09:48 PM   #45
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Quote:
....and know of at least one case where the 2-way water heater was wired to 12V. Maybe to code but not to common sense.
Hi Brian- you edited the complete quote and so context is lacking.
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Old 08-06-2016, 10:06 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Quote:
....and know of at least one case where the 2-way water heater was wired to 12V. Maybe to code but not to common sense.
Hi Brian- you edited the complete quote and so context is lacking.
Sorry Ross - I thought you were giving two examples of problems, and I was only responding to the first. Wiring 12V DC power to the 120V AC input of a heater certainly does lack common sense!

If the forum lets me, I'll go back and fix that. Done
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