Cracked Flange Valve fitting

[Mesa]

Anybody have ideas on this.

Had a very slow drip from the black-tank valve so I replaced the valve. Still dripping.
I then found that the fixed flange was cracked near the top (prior to valve), so looks like I'll need to replace it, but I'm not sure how and am looking for advice.

There is no pipe run, so it goes from fitting to fitting.

The only thing I can think of is to cut the flange off and use the technique to score the inside of the remaining pipe and then pry it out of the 90 and hope I can get a new flange fitting in there.

Is the top of that 90 a threaded fitting?

[steve dunham]

They make a tool for removing the pipe from the fitting
You cut off the flange ,ream out the fitting to remove the pipe and glue in new flange .
You can buy one at HD or Lowes — Costs about $20 to $25

[Mesa]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

They make a tool for removing the pipe from the fitting
You cut off the flange ,ream out the fitting to remove the pipe and glue in new flange .
You can buy one at HD or Lowes — Costs about $20 to $25

I think that's what I'm looking for.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Mesa

Is the top of that 90 a threaded fitting?

No guarantees, but it looks like the 90 degree elbow has plain ends (called hubs in this sort of plumbing) which are glued onto the ends of pipes; the piece above it is so short that you can't see it, because it is entirely with the end of the elbow and the end of the fitting above it.

So the top of the elbow likely doesn't offer a way around doing the repair as you have worked out with Steve.

[Mesa]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

No guarantees, but it looks like the 90 degree elbow has plain ends (called hubs in this sort of plumbing) which are glued onto the ends of pipes; the piece above it is so short that you can't see it, because it is entirely with the end of the elbow and the end of the fitting above it.

So the top of the elbow likely doesn't offer a way around doing the repair as you have worked out with Steve.

I was planning on cutting the flange end off (bottom). Should be enough room to ft a hacksaw blade. I have a 3" spigot flange fitting on order.

But it certainly points out that this configuration of fittings is hard to repair.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Mesa

I was planning on cutting the flange end off (bottom). Should be enough room to ft a hacksaw blade. I have a 3" spigot flange fitting on order.

But it certainly points out that this configuration of fittings is hard to repair.

One option to consider: the black tank connection is threaded and the piping from the black tank to the valve flange can be replaced. Have you looked at the piping in the trailer to see if there is enough length of pipe that it could be cut and a union glued in or worse case all the piping replaced?

Two 3" abs 90s, a ABS male adapter Hub x MIPT, a valve flange, and some 3" pipe and your good to go.

[Mesa]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

One option to consider: the black tank connection is threaded and the piping from the black tank to the valve flange can be replaced. Have you looked at the piping in the trailer to see if there is enough length of pipe that it could be cut and a union glued in or worse case all the piping replaced?

Good to know that it's threaded, I wasn't sure about the union with the tank.

I'm going to try cutting and reaming first but if I screw it up I'll just replace the whole thing.

Does any one have pix/diagrams/description of the pipe-to-tank union?

27 8x10 color glossy photographs?

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Mesa

Does any one have pix/diagrams/description of the pipe-to-tank union?

27 8x10 color glossy photographs?

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f7...bed-14949.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6k_...ature=youtu.be

[steve dunham]

Look at Mission couplings . If the problem reoccurs , the Mission coupling would allow you to remove the pipe without having to cut and reglue . The drain valves on my Caita have Mission couplings on either side of the drain valves and have worked perfectly for 5 years

[elongest]

If you have the broken piece you can remove the valve, clean up the flange and piece and glue it back with ABS glue. When you reassemble use as large a stainless steel flat washer that will fit flat on the cracked flange surface. Black ABS is stronger and bonds better than white PVC. On my trailer ETI did not use Valterra flanges The flanges they used are thinner and prone to cracking. If this does not work then follow the other suggestions but use Valterra flanges.
Eddie

[Mesa]

@TDF-texas
Thanks. My search did not pull these up.

@steve dunham
That might be a possibility and I will consider that.

@eddie
That is a good idea and I might try that first. We're supposed to camp next week an I'm not ready to tear everything apart yet. Your idea might be the easiest, and if it doesn't work, I'm no worse off.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

Look at Mission couplings . If the problem reoccurs , the Mission coupling would allow you to remove the pipe without having to cut and reglue . The drain valves on my Caita have Mission couplings on either side of the drain valves and have worked perfectly for 5 years

I had never heard of a Mission coupling, so I had to look it up: it is a flexible (typically rubber) sleeve and clamps, which splices pipe together without either side having a hub (enlarged section), sometimes called a "no-hub" coupling. "Mission" is a brand name, but there are many brands; Fernco seems to be the other well-known brand. I have used these, but they were not Mission brand.

They are common and were discussed as part of a solution to an issue with the waste piping from the black tank on some Escape 21's. They make a lot of sense to me to allow movement without breaking the connection.

The problem with these couplings in the black waste piping of the 17' is that there is no space for them between fittings.