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Old 10-15-2014, 11:11 AM   #81
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and instead of the usual camp fire, we sat inside with the heat up, and played cards.

]
Wow, sat inside! Was that a first?

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Old 10-15-2014, 11:30 AM   #82
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Wow, sat inside! Was that a first?

Ron
Close for evenings, the only other time was a couple years ago at Bryce Canyon, when temps were cold and windy, and even though fires were allowed, the campsites were not conducive to enjoying a fire. Might not do that again though, as our wives kicked our butts at cribbage.
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:30 AM   #83
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For heavy gauge wire, check out battery booster cables a/k/a jumper cables. If you do not need a long run - under 20 feet, they work real well. I bought a cheap set and cut the cheesy connectors off and had some nice 8 gauge wire.

I have looked hard for 10 gauge two wire, you only need two for the panel and it is hard to come by. Two wire to cut the cost and as important to cut the weight. Look under irrigation wire, that was referenced a lot but I did not find a match.

The other issue with heavy gauge wire is getting it to fit on the solar controller or similar connectors. You may need to plan for some conversion of wire gauge. I found NYLON Insulated WIRE PIN Terminal Connectors 10 AWG Wire MOLEX to make the transition. I also used super large wire nuts and connected a lighter gauge wire to heavier gauge wire just to make a connection.
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Old 10-15-2014, 02:06 PM   #84
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For heavy gauge wire, check out battery booster cables a/k/a jumper cables. If you do not need a long run - under 20 feet, they work real well. I bought a cheap set and cut the cheesy connectors off and had some nice 8 gauge wire.

I have looked hard for 10 gauge two wire, you only need two for the panel and it is hard to come by. Two wire to cut the cost and as important to cut the weight. Look under irrigation wire, that was referenced a lot but I did not find a match.

The other issue with heavy gauge wire is getting it to fit on the solar controller or similar connectors. You may need to plan for some conversion of wire gauge. I found NYLON Insulated WIRE PIN Terminal Connectors 10 AWG Wire MOLEX to make the transition. I also used super large wire nuts and connected a lighter gauge wire to heavier gauge wire just to make a connection.
I found #10 landscaping wire at a Lowes in California. Looks like heavy duty zip cord, very flexible, and described as UV protected. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be available in the few eastern Lowes I've checked. #12 is the largest I've been able to find here in the East.
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Old 10-15-2014, 05:15 PM   #85
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I found #10 landscaping wire at a Lowes in California. Looks like heavy duty zip cord, very flexible, and described as UV protected. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be available in the few eastern Lowes I've checked. #12 is the largest I've been able to find here in the East.
#10 landscape is available through Amazon; @$50 for 100 feet.
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Old 10-16-2014, 12:06 AM   #86
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I had difficulty finding landscape wire in 8 gauge, so picked up some of this duplex wire from West Marine. It is flexible and coils neatly. The insulation on direct burial landscape wire is really tough, and should hold up well. It is a little stiffer and more unruly to coil than the marine cable, but should give good service.
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Old 10-23-2014, 02:50 PM   #87
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This has been a long and interesting thread! Time for me to update from my last post, #80.

As stated...

Want to be worry free when I dry camp. Got non-tech but reasonably studious brain, been reading earnestly earlier excellent solar threads. Wire resistance, voltage drop, battery deaths, electrolyte stratification, man, this to me is carrying heavy water. Regardless, learned enough to make a solar plunge.

A packaged plug-in solar charging kit ready to go makes great economic sense. Plenty choices out there. But shucks, what fun is that?

So I've spent twice as much and built my Punch and Judy cobbed together system which employs lessons learned here, and from HandyBob, et al., and damn the torpedoes. Here's my choices:
  • Morningstar Sunsaver Duo SSD-25RM charge controller with remote display, $154.00
  • 2 each 50 watt Polycrystalline solar panels, ML Solar, $192.00
  • 30 feet of 10 gauge AWG 2-wire, $41.45
  • In-line fuse holder, 8 gauge, and 20 amp fuse, $8.48
  • Ring connectors, terminal connectors, $6.38
  • Mc4 and Mc4-H connectors (pair each), $15.98
At this moment waiting on the panels-- UPS should deliver to me later this afternoon. Biggest unresolved issue is how to run wire for the remote display from the controller in the tongue box to inside the trailer, and where inside to place that display unit.
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Old 10-23-2014, 08:21 PM   #88
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Like you I have done a build your own. It looks like a nice set of components that you have chosen. A couple of other things to consider, depending on your arrangement of things, would be one or more kill switches. Just so you can isolate the solar when your are working on it or, as in my case, I keep it off except when using it. To work with those heavy gauge wires and connectors I invested in a hydraulic crimp connector. Under $30 at Amazon.

I think it is a fine dilemma to have, where to place the remote display. I like having such a feature, otherwise the need to mount the controller close to the batteries outweighs the visibility of observing the progress of charging.
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Old 10-23-2014, 09:18 PM   #89
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One obstacle to solar power

Solar works pretty well until the moon tries to cover up the sun, like it did today...
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Old 10-23-2014, 11:21 PM   #90
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So Fudge, you know what this is! Right. An actual "crimp connector-connector." Exactly what did not come with my two 50 watt panels today... what I didn't know I need, to properly wire up my panels in parallel, and don't have. Aaaargh.

I will not be watching my solar display show charging progress this weekend as hoped, wherever it gets put. This makes me want to go out and holler at the moon.

Oh man, now I can't find where online I got this picture. Know where this connector (or any correct crimping sleeve) is available?
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Old 10-24-2014, 12:20 AM   #91
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Does this option make any sense at all? Hard to see but there's crimping tags just past the screw. Come to think of it guess I could simply solder on a ring connector and use the screw.
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Old 10-24-2014, 12:30 AM   #92
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Come to think of it guess I could simply solder on a ring connector and use the screw.
Don't see why not. I usually crimp and then solder. Probably overkill but I've been doing it for years and never had a problem with any connector. Sort of belt and braces.

We're expecting a full report of your system output

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Old 10-24-2014, 07:26 AM   #93
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Right, Ron, crimp and solder, and tape wrap to seal up grommet. Won't be pretty but does the job. Oh, and Mike, don't think I can't tell a Photoshopped vanilla wafer when I see one.
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Old 10-24-2014, 10:50 AM   #94
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I think you have found your solution but for future reference that photo that you attached in Post # 90 appears to for an Anderson Power Pole connector. They come in different gauges and from the photo that is not discernible. Some electrical suppliers may carry them, probably have to purchase a bag of ten. Usually they are inside a square plastic sleeve and are keyed and colored for proper polarity. The attached photo is a 45 amp model.
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Old 10-24-2014, 01:22 PM   #95
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I think you have found your solution but for future reference that photo that you attached in Post # 90 appears to for an Anderson Power Pole connector. They come in different gauges and from the photo that is not discernible. Some electrical suppliers may carry them, probably have to purchase a bag of ten. Usually they are inside a square plastic sleeve and are keyed and colored for proper polarity. The attached photo is a 45 amp model.
You can also find the connectors at most any shop that deals with electric winches for vehicles. They're common to some some brands (like Warn.)
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Old 10-24-2014, 02:16 PM   #96
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Another connecting system that is worth considering is the use of Automotive SAE connectors. The larger size came on my 160 watt portable solar panel, & I used the surface mount version to connect the panel to my trailer. Here is the source I used.

I used item C for the cables & E to feed the trailer. Because of interaction problems between the two controllers, I added a set of connectors before the controller on the portable panel & feed it to the input of the built in GoPower controller. I left the connector after the portable panel controller so I can still use the panel either with or without its controller.
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Old 10-24-2014, 02:37 PM   #97
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Jon, those are the connectors that my external charger uses too. I also noticed the portable solar panels that Baglo got from Canadian Tire also uses those. Amazon has dual ended connections in 10 gauge wire too, but no that nifty surface mount jack. The jack looks like it could be mounted right onto one of my 6v battery boxes.
SAE 10 gauge
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Old 10-24-2014, 03:01 PM   #98
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Another connecting system that is worth considering is the use of Automotive SAE connectors.
I've seen those referred to as "bullet" connectors. I have found they are generally lousy connectors, prone to corrosion and not reliable... but they are certainly readily available. I can't see wanting to use them myself, but if I did for convenience I would want the connections protected from moisture for reliability.

Although named for SAE, which was formerly the Society of Automotive Engineers, I've never seen them used in an automobile except for trailer wiring... and neither the SAE standard for commercial trailer connections (J560, introduced in 1951 and still current) nor the SAE standard for "Automotive or RV, 7 Position, Self Draining Trailer Tow Connector Interface" (J2863, what most travel trailers including all Escape have) uses this type of connector or terminal.

The Wikipedia DC connector page has a decent roundup of DC power connection options (including the SAE connector and the Power Poles mentioned earlier).
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:51 PM   #99
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Right, my connector info and that picture are totally wrong. I see now, it is so easy to forget what's going on and to be mesmerized by the plug and play cookie monster. My thinking here was way-way over-connected. I've been worrying about Y-connectors and male/female plugs and spending money on stuff I really do not need.

Back to Wiring 101:
  1. Want to book and wire up two panels in parallel, then run their plus and minus wires to the solar converter. I only need connections that will separate the 28 foot run from the panels, and, from the converter. Everything else is fancy bull-hockey.
  2. Solution: Simply use plain vanilla crimp-loops, and solder, and wrap it with electrical tape everywhere except for at (1.) above.

Yah, I should also take a Soldering 101 course. It's ugly but secure, and will be hidden by pretty green tape.
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Old 10-26-2014, 02:35 PM   #100
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Just finished making a bracket stand for the booked panels. The horizontal piece telescopes up into the two vertical square tubes and will slide out to change the angle plus are removable when folding up the hinged panels for transport. Yet to be made is the carrying case.
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