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Old 06-29-2015, 07:57 PM   #91
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Pat, I hope all is still going according to plan and that you haven't hit any roadblocks on your project. Just found a picture of the switch I put on the face of the control panel and thought I'd share it with you. It's a simple, single-pole switch from Radio Shack (good luck finding one) but any similar switch will work. Used a spade bit for the hole. It's directly wired to the fan and powered by tapping into a 12v outlet I installed over the fridge. Keep us posted on your progress! - Rich
Hi Rich have not forgotten you guys . It is very HOT here . I have tried to go outside can't . And Tomorrow they are shutting off our power starting in morning . I did talk to Reace this morning and I need to put back the metal brown piece on back I took off . Also he said to not extend the pipe on the boiler .I have been reading up on insulating cavity from Dometic . Also the exposed wood I want to coat in there . I did also call Dometic what a waste of time . I received my little snip the tip in mail today . Ok great place for switch on yours , I like it . I have some . I need a drawing on this switch I can follow . You are talking to a know nothing when it comes to electrical. Reace said to move that switch at back closer to chimney .The one suppose to control my fan . I noticed it goes into control box It just clamps on pipe .
there . I want to be able to control the fan myself . Can I ? Told you this is going to be slow . Once I put this frig back , I don't want to remove it again . This heat is the killer right now . Pat
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Old 06-29-2015, 08:16 PM   #92
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Hey Pat- you're welcome to tow it up here, park it and do the work. We have room and the temps are mid 60's. Mine is going in Wednesday to SLO for warranty exchange.
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Old 06-29-2015, 08:20 PM   #93
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Hey Pat- you're welcome to tow it up here, park it and do the work. We have room and the temps are mid 60's. Mine is going in Wednesday to SLO for warranty exchange.
How did you get this ? I can't right now but wish I could take you up on your offer . But really how ? Pat
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Old 06-29-2015, 08:22 PM   #94
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We have the 6.7. Come on up if you can.
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Old 06-29-2015, 09:08 PM   #95
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The problem with just moving the switch closer to the chimney is the fans may run when you don't want them to and never shut off. You have no control. Someone else on the forum did this and was complaining that they ran to much even in cooler weather.

I would not suggest extending the flue unless you can make a exact copy of the existing flue.
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Old 06-29-2015, 10:38 PM   #96
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The problem with just moving the switch closer to the chimney is the fans may run when you don't want them to and never shut off. You have no control. Someone else on the forum did this and was complaining that they ran to much even in cooler weather.

I would not suggest extending the flue unless you can make a exact copy of the existing flue.
Ok Tom how can I have a switch and have control ? My brother told me to take a hair dryer on switch and see if the fan even works after I just plug 120 in . I need a diagram to follow what I need to do with the switch . Pst
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Old 06-29-2015, 10:54 PM   #97
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Ok Tom how can I have a switch and have control ? My brother told me to take a hair dryer on switch and see if the fan even works after I just plug 120 in . I need a diagram to follow what I need to do with the switch . Pst
Tom I think I should explain I called Dometic to get their extension for that pipe however because I didn't have the proper part number they couldn't help me . I know they have one because it is on their website . Never asked them to help with frig cooling been there and did that long time ago .what about that metal on back of frig ? Pat
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Old 06-29-2015, 10:56 PM   #98
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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Hi Rich have not forgotten you guys . It is very HOT here . I have tried to go outside can't . And Tomorrow they are shutting off our power starting in morning . I did talk to Reace this morning and I need to put back the metal brown piece on back I took off . Also he said to not extend the pipe on the boiler .I have been reading up on insulating cavity from Dometic . Also the exposed wood I want to coat in there . I did also call Dometic what a waste of time . I received my little snip the tip in mail today . Ok great place for switch on yours , I like it . I have some . I need a drawing on this switch I can follow . You are talking to a know nothing when it comes to electrical. Reace said to move that switch at back closer to chimney .The one suppose to control my fan . I noticed it goes into control box It just clamps on pipe .
there . I want to be able to control the fan myself . Can I ? Told you this is going to be slow . Once I put this frig back , I don't want to remove it again . This heat is the killer right now . Pat
Hey, Pat - maybe you should work the graveyard shift when it's cooler . I cut all the factory wires on the fans, trashed the piece attached to the condenser, and rewired them to run off a 12V power supply I had previously installed nearby. They can only run when I turn on that switch I posted. One of your photos shows you also have power nearby that I bet you can use. That make sense?
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:01 PM   #99
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Hey, Pat - maybe you should work the graveyard shift when it's cooler . I cut all the factory wires on the fans, trashed the piece attached to the condenser, and rewired them to run off a 12V power supply I had previously installed nearby. They can only run when I turn on that switch I posted. One of your photos shows you also have power nearby that I bet you can use. That make sense?
Rich makes sense . The switch is wired into the control box ? Do I just cut that wire and forget about it . Just wire that fan on the back like I did my inside fan ? It is that simple ? Pat
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Old 06-30-2015, 08:53 AM   #100
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If you just jump across the 2 wires on the thermo switch the fans will run if you have 12 volt power to the fridge or take the wires off the switch and touch them together. All the thermo switch does is close the contacts inside when it get to 150 degrees and completes the circuit to allow the fans to run. The new switch is just installed across the same 2 terminals of the thermo switch and bypasses the thermo switch and makes the fan run when turned on. Leave to original 2 wires on the switch and add 2 wires (one more to each terminal) that you run to the new switch. If you touch the ends of these new wires together it will jump the switch and will be the same as turning on the new switch and your fans will run.

Or you can take the thermo switch out of the circuit like Rich did and rewire the fans supplying them their own 12 volt power supply but I think the easiest way is to just jump the thermo switch with a manual switch.

My switch is located in the upper cabinet above the fridge.

Hope this helps
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