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Old 07-08-2015, 08:33 PM   #171
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Well, I don't know, I don't know.... just because it might help I ordered that new (and improved? $26) thermocouple dingie for my 8551, I may pull out the unit and put in the angled baffle thing but not just yet, and when I do that I of course will beef up insulation all around it, even though I seem to be one of the lucky few who got reflectix glued to my wall at the factory.

Some got one fan, some got none so they added one, but me, I got two fans. Pondering adding a third fan back there to speed up exiting hot air... because why take a chance, right?... with it's own remote switch so Dometic doesn't refuse to make good if next month the mother board blows.

And the band plays on....
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Old 07-08-2015, 08:40 PM   #172
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This discussion makes me quite sad. I had a vintage 1968 Aristocrat trailer that I had restored and it had a great Traveleze refrigerator (110v - LP) that worked very well all the time. I sold it and bought a new Escape because I wanted to focus more on camping and less on doing things to maintain the trailer. It seems it is not to be. Sad.
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Old 07-08-2015, 09:12 PM   #173
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This discussion makes me quite sad. I had a vintage 1968 Aristocrat trailer that I had restored and it had a great Traveleze refrigerator (110v - LP) that worked very well all the time. I sold it and bought a new Escape because I wanted to focus more on camping and less on doing things to maintain the trailer. It seems it is not to be. Sad.
Don't blame ETI, they're buying and installing currently available frigs. I've got a 1988 Scamp, it has a frig (3-way) that gets and stays cold.. as long as I pay attention to were the SUN is... the Dometic frig in the Scamp is no longer available
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Old 07-08-2015, 09:28 PM   #174
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Tonny, I know it's of little consolation, but the 4.3 owners with cooling issues are basically stuck unless they can get Dometic to repair/replace because the fridge doesn't meet spec performance. I'd do what Tammy suggests as a first effort. If it turns out to be within the performance specs afterward, and Dometic won't help further, you could try modifying the installation with additional insulation, baffle mods, etc as others have done. As a last resort there might be another way, but it would involve shelling out $700 or so, plus installation costs -- and that's to remove the 8 series fridge entirely, and go with something like the RM2510.2r. Not as fancy as the 8 series, but it will fit through the door, and it has a MUCH better reputation for cooling in hotter weather than any of the 8 series fridges do. It would of course also involve some modifications to the cabinet enclosure.
Robert,
Thanks for the input. I am going to sit tight and wait for any proven improvement. I don't like the idea of removing the refrigerator and doing all those mods mentioned in previous posts. I am not that skillful in carpentry and electrical stuff.

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Old 07-08-2015, 10:12 PM   #175
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Just finished my 42 day Alaska trip. Temperatures never exceeded the low 30's. My wife left home with frozen goods and returned home with frozen goods. Fridge ran all the time on propane with the setting on 3 bars. She was happy with it so I'm happy with it.

I don't know how much each item I did in my mod affected it. But between the relectix, a couple of inches of foam, the metal baffle that directs the air more efficiently past the condenser and the dedicated flue for the flame I'm pretty satisfied it was worth the effort. Maybe the moldy baffle was a blessing in disguise

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Ron do you have the 4.3 or 6.7 ? What temps were you getting outside etc. and can you please explain or pics of your dedicated flue and your metal baffle . Thanks . Pat
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:31 PM   #176
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Dometic RM8551 insufficent cooling

Finished up sealing everything . Put back the piece Reace said I should .And it took some doing put the frig back .Had to put pillows behind me on the bed and push with my feet for the last 4 inches but it is in . Put the 4 screws back not like it will fall out or anything .Can't work on tomorrow so Friday I will make sure of all my connections and check the gas line and operation of frig then put the finishes back including the door . Pat
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:36 PM   #177
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Dometic RM8551 insufficent cooling

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Finished up sealing everything . Put back the piece Reace said I should .And it took some doing put the frig back .Had to put pillows behind me on the bed and push with my feet for the last 4 inches but it is in . Put the 4 screws back not like it will fall out or anything .Can't work on tomorrow so Friday I will make sure of all my connections and check the gas line and operation of frig then put the finishes back including the door . Pat
forgot did add another layer of Refex on top of what Escape added up to my fan in cavity . 1st pic - frig in
2nd pic - frig that was in my camper a 1992 Dometic that worked great even with my freezer . Pat
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Old 07-08-2015, 11:00 PM   #178
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You make a point Donna, but I don' think that will be enough to console the people who shelled out big $ and have to worry about fridge cooling. If I was them I would be disappointed that ETI hasn't found another supplier. I don't think ETI has changed supplier/brand of fridge, and to keep installing a product proven defective just doesn't make sense to me.
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Old 07-08-2015, 11:28 PM   #179
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If you read all the fridge posts ( and unfortunately, I have, even though I have a 5.0 cu. ft. fridge ) you will find that Reace discussed the situation with Norcold, the other major fridge builder, and was told he could not expect better performance.
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Old 07-09-2015, 12:54 AM   #180
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Ron do you have the 4.3 or 6.7 ? What temps were you getting outside etc. and can you please explain or pics of your dedicated flue and your metal baffle . Thanks . Pat
I have the 4.3.

My rational for this mod was two fold.

I had to replace the baffle anyway as it was covered in mold. I could have just used 1/8" plywood but since aluminum is just as easy to use, will never get moldy and lends itself to what I wanted to do I used aluminum.

One. I wanted a smooth flow of convection air to remove heat from the condenser. Given the convoluted area around the condenser is likely to create turbulence and an inefficient flow of air I added some fins to "straighten" the flow and make it more efficient. I was't looking to create hurricane alley but I did want a more efficient convection current.

Secondly, it made no sense to me that the heat from the flame is dumped out right by the condenser, an area you want to remove heat from, not add heat to.

So the channel on the left creates a flue that is isolated from the condenser. Ironically Dometic does make a flue extension that directly dumps the heat to the exterior. Efforts to obtain on in North America weren't successful so I went with the isolated flue instead.

Ron
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