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Old 03-30-2015, 04:14 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Yeah, you wanna know the cool part Brian? When someone asks a question now I actually have a trailer I can take a picture of! No more theory.
This and no more searching the internet for answers. Looking forward to you providing more information based on experience.
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Old 03-30-2015, 04:30 PM   #22
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Facts to chew:

In its products listing the current Dometic website makes no mention of the RM5551 single door 3-way refrigerator, the one I got.

The following single door units are listed:

1. The 2454 (capacity 4.28cf) is 5 inches taller, and 4 inches wider than the 5551. 3 way power for this one is called an extra (?$?) option only.
2. The 2554 (5.3cf) is 10 inches taller, and 4½ inches wider than the 5551.

Question: Within the space allotted for the "discontinued" 4.3, are either of these two units a replacement fit? I did a few measurements in my trailer. There just might be available an extra 4 inches of width but it’s looking like a real pinch. Cannot confirm without pulling the 4.3 unit. Not ready to do that yet. For height, no way, without cutting into my microwave space. With the 2554 installed the microwave is history.

What to do? My 5551 has performed swell, but remains untested in temps above 75°f. Translation: not a certified lemon but also not ready to be called a peach.

A replacement fridge, should it ever come to that, could mean aggressive cabinet work.
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Old 03-30-2015, 07:37 PM   #23
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As a prospective new owner (17B delivery date 8/01), I'm wondering how many Escape owner's are experiencing the inadequate cooling problems being discussed? One of the major reasons that we decided to upgrade from our Tab (which only has an icebox), is that we were tired of hunting ice every 3-4 days in hot weather. Hopefully, the refrigerators currently being installed by ETI are working reliably in summer temperatures?
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Old 03-30-2015, 07:51 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
Facts to chew:

In its products listing the current Dometic website makes no mention of the RM5551 single door 3-way refrigerator, the one I got.

The following single door units are listed:

1. The 2454 (capacity 4.28cf) is 5 inches taller, and 4 inches wider than the 5551. 3 way power for this one is called an extra (?$?) option only.
2. The 2554 (5.3cf) is 10 inches taller, and 4½ inches wider than the 5551.

Question: Within the space allotted for the "discontinued" 4.3, are either of these two units a replacement fit? I did a few measurements in my trailer. There just might be available an extra 4 inches of width but it’s looking like a real pinch. Cannot confirm without pulling the 4.3 unit. Not ready to do that yet. For height, no way, without cutting into my microwave space. With the 2554 installed the microwave is history.

What to do? My 5551 has performed swell, but remains untested in temps above 75°f. Translation: not a certified lemon but also not ready to be called a peach.

A replacement fridge, should it ever come to that, could mean aggressive cabinet work.
Myron, the RM8551 is a current offering of Dometic, but for the Asian, European and Middle East Markets. It can be sold in North America (Escape is proof of that) but its rare here. Same with the RM8555.
http://www2.dometic.com/enie/Asia-Pa...ctdataid=73057
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:12 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave & Penny Smith View Post
As a prospective new owner (17B delivery date 8/01), I'm wondering how many Escape owner's are experiencing the inadequate cooling problems being discussed? One of the major reasons that we decided to upgrade from our Tab (which only has an icebox), is that we were tired of hunting ice every 3-4 days in hot weather. Hopefully, the refrigerators currently being installed by ETI are working reliably in summer temperatures?
Thanks,
Dave
See post 62 of the "Dometic comes through" thread. The 4.3 cu ft does not adequately cool above 80 degrees F.
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:33 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by santacruzer View Post
Took delivery of the 19 in November, so still haven't tested the 4.3 RM 8551 in really warm weather...that will come up in a couple of weeks. My unit is also top vented, as Robert showed on his 19, so perhaps I won't have a problem. There's also a "Texas fan" installed.

My issue at present is the plastic bin unit at the bottom. I'm not wild about it, and there's some wasted space in the two back corners. I was going to remove it, and just add another wire shelf, until Dometic told me the shelf was $103, before shipping and tax. I've decided to hold off a while longer!
Try ordering through camping world. I think we paid around $60 for the shelf. Part # 2413379609 I also added a upper shelf since we have the freezer removed Part # 2413375607

I run our fridge with the freezer removed and can get fairly good performance that way. I realize there are those people that this would not be a option and that need a freezer but right now it seems to be the best fix out there for the 8551. It is nothing like our old fridge was in previous campers but gets us by.

Just wondering if those who are having problems have actually taken your unit in to be checked by a RV repair place so it is recorded by Dometic that you are having problems.

I have a friend with a November 2013 19' that seems completely happy with their fridge and does not complain about its performance.
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:47 PM   #27
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Great advice to get the problem documented.
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Old 03-31-2015, 09:07 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Try ordering through camping world. I think we paid around $60 for the shelf. Part # 2413379609 I also added a upper shelf since we have the freezer removed Part # 2413375607

I run our fridge with the freezer removed and can get fairly good performance that way. I realize there are those people that this would not be a option and that need a freezer but right now it seems to be the best fix out there for the 8551. It is nothing like our old fridge was in previous campers but gets us by.

Just wondering if those who are having problems have actually taken your unit in to be checked by a RV repair place so it is recorded by Dometic that you are having problems.

I have a friend with a November 2013 19' that seems completely happy with their fridge and does not complain about its performance.
Can you tell us if you moved the therm. To the side or is it in orignal place on fins . Just to check again the fan is to move air down not up ? Thankyou , Pat
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Old 04-01-2015, 07:04 AM   #29
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Can you tell us if you moved the therm. To the side or is it in orignal place on fins . Just to check again the fan is to move air down not up ? Thankyou , Pat
In that picture the sensor is in its orgional place. I have since moved it off the fins and attached it to the wires for the fan you can see.

Fan is blowing down.
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Old 04-01-2015, 10:00 AM   #30
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In that picture the sensor is in its orgional place. I have since moved it off the fins and attached it to the wires for the fan you can see.

Fan is blowing down.
Thanks Tom . Pat
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Old 06-24-2015, 03:06 PM   #31
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My 4.3 cu. ft. (RM8551) Dometic fridge struggled to get below 40(F) all last summer. So last week I undertook a series of modifications that (with 4 days of use) seem to have made a significant positive difference in its ability to get into the (acceptable) low 30’s.

Using an Accurite thermometer with two sending units (one inside the trailer and one on the inside of the top half of the door), its best performance was a fridge temp of 34(F) with an ambient temperature of 84(F). Outside temperatures were a high of mid-80's throughout the 4 day trip. Getting to these acceptable numbers was the result of several modifications achieved over two days with the extensive support and encouragement of Tom (aka: “Kountry Kamper”) whose help was invaluable (if not essential).

The mods included the following:
• I replaced the original door with one recently provided by ETI which is said to have a denser foam insulation;
• I completely removed the freezer unit and left it at home;
• I removed the fridge and installed a new flue with R13 wall insulation using the design and materials recommend by Reace quite some time ago, posted on this forum. I also put an inch of foil-backed foam board on the sides as well as 3 inches of the R13 on the top of the fridge;
• I replaced the stock, flat plywood baffle with one angled at 45 degrees (on Tom’s tested recommendation). I used a scrap piece of lightweight vinyl sheet with Velcro to secure it to a piece of wood cut at 45 degrees attached to the flue frame;
• My unit had two stock factory fans (I’ve heard some have just one, and others possibly none) run in series to a thermal switch I have never heard run before. I simply cut the factory wires which I then ran to another power source and installed a rocker switch on the control panel on the fridge. During our trip, the fans ran 24/7 (a little noise, but not too bad). Bypassing the thermal switch means I’ve got to remember to run it without any backup;
• Lastly, I installed a “Snip the Tip” adjustable thermistor, replacing the stock unit. Surprisingly, adjusting the new thermistor made quite a difference in the fridge’s performance numbers (from 40 to 34). It is important to note that the gauge on the thermistor still had room for additional adjustment but 34 degrees was just fine. IMHO, this product really works very well!

This was not an easy modification. After unhooking the propane and electrical power, I had to use a 4 lb. hammer with a piece of 1x4 just to get the unit to wiggle a little (hit it on the bottom corners). I can not express how tight a fit it was. When I reinstalled, I removed a 1/16th inch wood shim on one side and it was still tight. Needless to say, there isn’t much room to work inside the fridge cavity and trying to get the back plywood flue panel installed in one piece is impossible. However, it can be ripped into two pieces that can be installed separately (with the insulation already attached using a spray adhesive). Once done however, it really seems to have improved the fridge’s performance. I declared victory when my wife complained that I froze some of the vegetables!

Ultimately, these fridges perform just like I do – great when it’s nice and cool or just warm, and struggle when it’s hot. I doubt that any one of these mods would have made such a difference, but rather it is the cumulative effect of all of them.
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Old 06-24-2015, 03:29 PM   #32
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Rich,
Great write up in explaining, any chance of pictures which may fill in between the lines?
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Old 06-24-2015, 03:34 PM   #33
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Rich,
Great write up in explaining, any chance of pictures which may fill in between the lines?
I used Jon Vermile's posting of Reace's pictures and guide so nothing there. Only photo I have is of my two fans. Sorry ... But if anyone has any questions I'd be happy to help.
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Old 06-24-2015, 04:20 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zardoz View Post
My 4.3 cu. ft. (RM8551) Dometic fridge struggled to get below 40(F) all last summer. So last week I undertook a series of modifications that (with 4 days of use) seem to have made a significant positive difference in its ability to get into the (acceptable) low 30’s.

Using an Accurite thermometer with two sending units (one inside the trailer and one on the inside of the top half of the door), its best performance was a fridge temp of 34(F) with an ambient temperature of 84(F). Outside temperatures were a high of mid-80's throughout the 4 day trip. Getting to these acceptable numbers was the result of several modifications achieved over two days with the extensive support and encouragement of Tom (aka: “Kountry Kamper”) whose help was invaluable (if not essential).

The mods included the following:
• I replaced the original door with one recently provided by ETI which is said to have a denser foam insulation;
• I completely removed the freezer unit and left it at home;
• I removed the fridge and installed a new flue with R13 wall insulation using the design and materials recommend by Reace quite some time ago, posted on this forum. I also put an inch of foil-backed foam board on the sides as well as 3 inches of the R13 on the top of the fridge;
• I replaced the stock, flat plywood baffle with one angled at 45 degrees (on Tom’s tested recommendation). I used a scrap piece of lightweight vinyl sheet with Velcro to secure it to a piece of wood cut at 45 degrees attached to the flue frame;
• My unit had two stock factory fans (I’ve heard some have just one, and others possibly none) run in series to a thermal switch I have never heard run before. I simply cut the factory wires which I then ran to another power source and installed a rocker switch on the control panel on the fridge. During our trip, the fans ran 24/7 (a little noise, but not too bad). Bypassing the thermal switch means I’ve got to remember to run it without any backup;
• Lastly, I installed a “Snip the Tip” adjustable thermistor, replacing the stock unit. Surprisingly, adjusting the new thermistor made quite a difference in the fridge’s performance numbers (from 40 to 34). It is important to note that the gauge on the thermistor still had room for additional adjustment but 34 degrees was just fine. IMHO, this product really works very well!

This was not an easy modification. After unhooking the propane and electrical power, I had to use a 4 lb. hammer with a piece of 1x4 just to get the unit to wiggle a little (hit it on the bottom corners). I can not express how tight a fit it was. When I reinstalled, I removed a 1/16th inch wood shim on one side and it was still tight. Needless to say, there isn’t much room to work inside the fridge cavity and trying to get the back plywood flue panel installed in one piece is impossible. However, it can be ripped into two pieces that can be installed separately (with the insulation already attached using a spray adhesive). Once done however, it really seems to have improved the fridge’s performance. I declared victory when my wife complained that I froze some of the vegetables!

Ultimately, these fridges perform just like I do – great when it’s nice and cool or just warm, and struggle when it’s hot. I doubt that any one of these mods would have made such a difference, but rather it is the cumulative effect of all of them.
Ok just what I needed . Where can I purchase the snip the tip thermistor ? Wish you had some pics . Any more info would be appreciated . Pat
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Old 06-24-2015, 07:18 PM   #35
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Hey Pat, the photo guide I referred to is here http://lakeshoreimages.com/PDFs/BafflePDF.pdf

Google snip-the-tip and you'll see their only product which I used.

If you decide to do this, I'll help any way I can.
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Old 06-24-2015, 07:49 PM   #36
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Glad to hear that after all your hard work it has made some improvement!!
I agree with you that no one mod will get the fridge to preform noticeablly better but a series of several mods will make at least some improvement.
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Old 06-24-2015, 08:08 PM   #37
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Glad to hear the problem with your 4.3 is fixed! Does the 3.0 work any better than the 4.3?
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Old 06-24-2015, 08:15 PM   #38
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Here is a picture of the rear of Rich's set up he sent to me to post for him
here is the link for the thermistor http://www.snip-the-tip.com/cgi-bin/articca.cgi
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Old 06-24-2015, 08:18 PM   #39
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Glad to hear the problem with your 4.3 is fixed! Does the 3.0 work any better than the 4.3?
Well yeah, we had no problem with ours, however it is about 50% smaller.
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Old 06-24-2015, 08:30 PM   #40
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Hey Pat, the photo guide I referred to is here http://lakeshoreimages.com/PDFs/BafflePDF.pdf

Google snip-the-tip and you'll see their only product which I used.

If you decide to do this, I'll help any way I can.
Thanks I did find the web site . There is another I found too Dinasoar thermistor which is better ? Also at site for yours they say to scroll go down and get for our model ? Or did you get something else I want it colder not sure which one to get . Pat
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