Dometic RM8551 insuffucent cooling - Page 5 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 06-24-2015, 09:31 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Here is a picture of the rear of Rich's set up he sent to me to post for him
here is the link for the thermistor Dometic Thermistor Repair Kit
Thanks Charley . Can't wait to see what I have back there .Pat
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:39 PM   #42
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Dometic RM8551 insuffucent cooling

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Originally Posted by Slickheadhunter View Post
Glad to hear the problem with your 4.3 is fixed! Does the 3.0 work any better than the 4.3?

By all accounts, yes. The 3.0 cf fridge (I believe it's a Dometic RM24xx series) is not an 8 series and it seems that the 8 series (RMD 8551 and 8555) have been the ones with most of the problems.

Don't know why exactly (maybe it's because there's less volume to cool) but it seems the tiny fridges perform much better than their larger counterparts. There are some fiberglass trailer owners who run fridges that are 30 years old -- and they're still going strong.
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:55 PM   #43
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From my testing the two things that will help you the most are. 1. remove the freezer 'box'. 2. get a Sterilite 18-Qt Dishpan (Walmart etc) that fits on the shelf and holds a bag of ice. Place the bag of iced as high as you like, then place things on the ice and take cubes as needed.


Set the power bars (temp bars really) on 3, your refrig should be 39-41F.
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Old 06-25-2015, 12:28 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Thanks I did find the web site . There is another I found too Dinasoar thermistor which is better ? Also at site for yours they say to scroll go down and get for our model ? Or did you get something else I want it colder not sure which one to get . Pat
I sent them an email and told them the model number (RM8551) which they pointed out was on their list. NOTE: in their installation directions, they state that it is important to disconnect the circuit board wiring going to the stock thermistor before installing the new one. On my 4.3, the wiring to the electronics are on the top of the fridge (meaning of course it has to be removed to access them).
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Old 06-25-2015, 12:48 AM   #45
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Glad to hear the problem with your 4.3 is fixed! Does the 3.0 work any better than the 4.3?
Sorry, but I have no experience with the 3.0 but I do think good insulation, a proper flue design, and adequate airflow over the coils are fundamentally necessary for optimum performance of any similar refrigerator.
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Old 06-25-2015, 01:03 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by Slickheadhunter View Post
Glad to hear the problem with your 4.3 is fixed! Does the 3.0 work any better than the 4.3?
I've never had an issue with my 3.0 and don't recall reading any posts about this smaller model.
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Old 06-25-2015, 01:58 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by Zardoz View Post
I sent them an email and told them the model number (RM8551) which they pointed out was on their list. NOTE: in their installation directions, they state that it is important to disconnect the circuit board wiring going to the stock thermistor before installing the new one. On my 4.3, the wiring to the electronics are on the top of the fridge (meaning of course it has to be removed to access them).
Got it ! When I get into this I may still need help . Pat
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Old 06-25-2015, 09:00 AM   #48
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Dometic RM8551 insuffucent cooling

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Originally Posted by Zardoz View Post
NOTE: in their installation directions, they state that it is important to disconnect the circuit board wiring going to the stock thermistor before installing the new one.

I would think that is true if there is any power to the fridge. But if you engage the battery disconnect I fail to see how snipping the tip off the thermistor and wiring in a new one would pose any danger to the circuit board. There's no power then.

If there was anything I could do to interrupt all power to the fridge before changing the thermistor, I would do that rather than the arduous task of pulling the fridge.
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Old 06-25-2015, 09:43 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
I would think that is true if there is any power to the fridge. But if you engage the battery disconnect I fail to see how snipping the tip off the thermistor and wiring in a new one would pose any danger to the circuit board. There's no power then.

If there was anything I could do to interrupt all power to the fridge before changing the thermistor, I would do that rather than the arduous task of pulling the fridge.
That was my initial thought too, Robert. However, the instructions go to pains highlighting how critical this is. Maybe if the fridge sat for a few days with no residual current, it would be okay. I was so far outside my comfort zone with this mod, I wasn't willing to tempt fate .
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Old 06-25-2015, 09:51 AM   #50
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Got it ! When I get into this I may still need help . Pat
When you muster-up the courage to take on this mod, we can exchange phone numbers. I'd be happy to serve as a "Help Desk." .
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