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Old 06-30-2015, 08:04 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Rich makes sense . The switch is wired into the control box ? Do I just cut that wire and forget about it . Just wire that fan on the back like I did my inside fan ? It is that simple ? Pat
I'll try to be real clear, so bear with me since I too struggle with anything electrical: 1.) I cut the wires leading out from the fan leaving enough wire(s) from the fan to spice-in about 3 to 4 feet onto both the hot and cold fan wires (I then discarded all remaining stock fan wiring and the thermal switch); 2.) I then ran the new, longer hot and cold fan wires to another power nearby 12V power source with the switch in-line on the hot side; 3.) I located the switch where there is room on the control panel and taped the wires running up over the fan down to the top of the fridge. NOTE, I did NOT wire anything "into" the control panel, I just located the switch there where there was room "on" the panel.
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Old 06-30-2015, 09:37 AM   #102
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If you just jump across the 2 wires on the thermo switch the fans will run if you have 12 volt power to the fridge or take the wires off the switch and touch them together. All the thermo switch does is close the contacts inside when it get to 150 degrees and completes the circuit to allow the fans to run. The new switch is just installed across the same 2 terminals of the thermo switch and bypasses the thermo switch and makes the fan run when turned on. Leave to original 2 wires on the switch and add 2 wires (one more to each terminal) that you run to the new switch. If you touch the ends of these new wires together it will jump the switch and will be the same as turning on the new switch and your fans will run.

Or you can take the thermo switch out of the circuit like Rich did and rewire the fans supplying them their own 12 volt power supply but I think the easiest way is to just jump the thermo switch with a manual switch.

My switch is located in the upper cabinet above the fridge.

Hope this helps
Got your message . My power is going off any minute if you don't hear from me . Went to Home Depot last night and got some items to insulate box . Pat
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Old 06-30-2015, 09:41 AM   #103
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I'll try to be real clear, so bear with me since I too struggle with anything electrical: 1.) I cut the wires leading out from the fan leaving enough wire(s) from the fan to spice-in about 3 to 4 feet onto both the hot and cold fan wires (I then discarded all remaining stock fan wiring and the thermal switch); 2.) I then ran the new, longer hot and cold fan wires to another power nearby 12V power source with the switch in-line on the hot side; 3.) I located the switch where there is room on the control panel and taped the wires running up over the fan down to the top of the fridge. NOTE, I did NOT wire anything "into" the control panel, I just located the switch there where there was room "on" the panel.
Rich the red wire from that fan goes into I believe it is a control box . It is Ok to cut that wire ? Understand and clean installation for your new switch on the front control panel . Think I want to do the same . Power is going off here soon if you don't hear from me . Pat
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Old 06-30-2015, 09:46 AM   #104
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Pat, I cut all of the wires that went various places to the fridge (including what could be called a "control box") with no negative consequences. I would think it would be fine for you too. But l too really held my breath and crossed my fingers. In the end it all worked out.
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Old 06-30-2015, 10:01 AM   #105
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Another view on RM 8551 performance

I've followed the various refrigerator performance threads with interest. But, before I started to solve a potential problem, I thought I would see what kind of problem I really had. With that objective in mind, I monitored the daily performance of our RM8551 on our recently completed trip through the Southeast and here's what I found. No modifications or additions had been made to the refrigerator.
Procedure
For recording the refrigerator temperatures, I used an AcuRite 00986Wireless Digital Thermometer with one sensor under the freezer shelf and one on the bottom refrigerator shelf. The outside temperature data came from an AcuRite 01033W Weather Forecaster with the outside sensor hanging under the propane tank cover.
The refrigerator was operated on both 110V or propane during the trip. No difference in performance was noted.
When towing, the unit was always on propane and the AcuRite monitor was in our Pilot so the refrigerator temperatures could be monitored. Refrigerator worked as well during towing as when parked.
The default cooling setting was, and is, 4.
The refrigerator was operated on setting 5 for one three day period and another four day period.
In both cases, average freezer temperature decreased by one degree, average refrigerator temperature increased by one degree.
The default location for the temperature sensor was, and is, on the cooling fin. I moved the temperature sensor from the cooling fin to the wall for a five day period.
During that period, measured data showed the average freezer temperature increased by two degrees, while the average refrigerator temperature decreased by two degrees.
Results
The chart illustrates the performance experienced during this trip.
Click image for larger version

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Observations
Quote from the Dometic Manual - "For physical reasons, an absorption system responds slowly to changes made by the thermostat controller, by loss of cooling energy through opening the door,or during storing food." We certainly found that to be true - adding any appreciable amount of room temperature items of "warm" leftovers caused a spike in the measured air temperature that sometimes took hours to recover. The same would happen if the door was open long enough for the alarm to go off.

Obviously, the AcuRite readings are air temperature readings and are do not represent the actual temperature of the items in the refrigerator. I do not know the relationship between changes in air temperature and the actual temperature of the food in the refrigerator. Per the AcuRite literature, the temperature accuracy is +/- 2° F and the readings are not "instantaneous" AcuRite says the temperatures are updated every 16 seconds. From my observations, the time between updates was as high as 2 minutes. When I removed the sensors from the refrigerator at the end of our trip, it took 45 minutes before they indicated the correct ambient temperature.

The vent fan mounted on the bottom left corner on the rear of the refrigerator never came on.
According to an email I received from Dometic , "theearliest the fan would kick on is 105 degrees Fahrenheit." I could not measure the temperature at the exact location of the controlling thermostat but measured temperature in the general area was over 120 degrees at a time when the air temperature was in the upper 90's and the outside refrigerator area was in full sun; the fan should have been running. Our Escape is currently at our local RV shop to fix whatever the problem is.

Conclusion
We are OK with the how our refrigerator performed during this trip and was surprised how well it did at temperatures above ninety degrees. We never had to discard any food, we never had any milk go bad, and cold beverages were always cold when consumed. In theory, fixing the rear vent fan will improve performance over what was measured during this trial.

Of course I would like to see a tighter range in the temperature swings during a day but managing how the refrigerator is used was the key factor in keeping our cold stuff cold and frozen stuff frozen. At least for now, we'll continue to work on "changing our refrigerator habits" (Cheryl calls it "common sense"). In our case, I found I didn't really have a problem worth solving and am not planning any physical changes to the refrigerator or it's installation.




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Old 06-30-2015, 11:12 AM   #106
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Don,
I appreciated you sharing this well documented study.

Tonny
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Old 06-30-2015, 12:58 PM   #107
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This is good data, Don; thanks for sharing. Much better to have numbers to look at!
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Old 06-30-2015, 01:05 PM   #108
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Of course I would like to see a tighter range in the temperature swings during a day but managing how the refrigerator is used was the key factor in keeping our cold stuff cold and frozen stuff frozen. At least for now, we'll continue to work on "changing our refrigerator habits" (Cheryl calls it "common sense").
That's true Don. You have to learn to use an RV fridge differently than the one at home, to be sure. We've found that the trusty Ice Chest for drinks is our go to place, which means we only have to open the fridge once or twice during meal prep. I'll bet our fridge only gets opened 4 times a day or so, and then for only a brief few seconds.
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Old 06-30-2015, 01:17 PM   #109
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"Reace said to move that switch at back closer to chimney"
Can the thermal switch on the condenser be moved without removing the frig ?
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Old 06-30-2015, 04:56 PM   #110
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That's true Don. You have to learn to use an RV fridge differently than the one at home, to be sure. We've found that the trusty Ice Chest for drinks is our go to place, which means we only have to open the fridge once or twice during meal prep. I'll bet our fridge only gets opened 4 times a day or so, and then for only a brief few seconds.
Robert been rving for 30 years . Have had this , is number 3 Dometic . This frig doesn't quite work as well as previous frigs . We know all the little tricks to help this out . None of this works for us . We have both mechanical and digital to record temps . Have carried a ice chest with every rv . This frig takes a long time , for us to recover , according to Domectic cavity where frig is mounted should have installtion and smaller clearances which it doesn't have . That is one of the reasons for pulling frig out to correct these items and anything else to improve the performance . For this frig to be parked in shade , outside temps to be around 75 degrees , fan Dometic installed never to come on , it was very hot back there , no matter what outside temps previous outing much hotter outside , fan never came on . Cost to replace this frig over 1000. Which is 10 -11 % of the whole cost of trailer . Don't expect much , know how these frigs work but you open your door and it takes to later at

night to recover . I have lots of things to fill my time I really don't relish taking apart my trailer for work which is not a fun mod . I'd rather do fun mods or go camping . Really mostly drink water , only open frig for breakfast and dinner . Glad you have no problems . Only want maybe a few more lower degrees until it can catch up . Pat
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Old 06-30-2015, 05:00 PM   #111
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"Reace said to move that switch at back closer to chimney"
Can the thermal switch on the condenser be moved without removing the frig ?
Hi Bob . You can't reach it if you have Escape installed baffle . You can't even see it until you remove frig . Fellows said here the fan will never shut off . Better to have a switch you control . If you remove frig it isn't hard to do just maddening that you have too . Pat
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Old 06-30-2015, 05:10 PM   #112
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I'll try to be real clear, so bear with me since I too struggle with anything electrical: 1.) I cut the wires leading out from the fan leaving enough wire(s) from the fan to spice-in about 3 to 4 feet onto both the hot and cold fan wires (I then discarded all remaining stock fan wiring and the thermal switch); 2.) I then ran the new, longer hot and cold fan wires to another power nearby 12V power source with the switch in-line on the hot side; 3.) I located the switch where there is room on the control panel and taped the wires running up over the fan down to the top of the fridge. NOTE, I did NOT wire anything "into" the control panel, I just located the switch there where there was room "on" the panel.
Hi Rich back on line . Both you and Tom gave me 2 options for that switch . Still hot here only can work on this early morning and early evening . I think the first thing I am going to do is insulate the cavity . Got my supplies for that last night . I have to finish coating my studio roof tonight first so probably in the morning . Received my snip the tip yesterday . Guess put back the metal on rear and forget the extension on pipe ? I could take my top piece to my welder and have him match with a little more length if you guys think it is important ? I really don't want to remove and deal with this again . I want to do everything I can now . Pat
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Old 06-30-2015, 05:10 PM   #113
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"Reace said to move that switch at back closer to chimney"
Can the thermal switch on the condenser be moved without removing the frig ?
Nope, sorry. It's located ant the top right on the back of the fridge.
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Old 06-30-2015, 05:16 PM   #114
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Hi Rich back on line . Both you and Tom gave me 2 options for that switch . Still hot here only can work on this early morning and early evening . I think the first thing I am going to do is insulate the cavity . Got my supplies for that last night . I have to finish coating my studio roof tonight first so probably in the morning . Received my snip the tip yesterday . Guess put back the metal on rear and forget the extension on pipe ? I could take my top piece to my welder and have him match with a little more length if you guys think it is important ? I really don't want to remove and deal with this again . I want to do everything I can now . Pat
Pat, I don't know nuffin' 'bout no pipe! Honest. Never heard of that mod before Tom posted his pic.
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Old 06-30-2015, 07:55 PM   #115
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I would not extend the flue unless you are a good machinist or have a good fabrication shop that can do it for you. It needs to be exactly like the original so it allows the flue out at the same rate and does not cause problems.
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Old 06-30-2015, 07:55 PM   #116
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Pat, I don't know nuffin' 'bout no pipe! Honest. Never heard of that mod before Tom posted his pic.
Ok maybe take that off the list -the pipe. It is on Dometic 2012 papers that were enclosed with my trailer .it just was a little extension . Later I can scan the paper and send it . Problem I need a part number to order . Will see what I can get done tomorrow . Pat
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Old 06-30-2015, 07:59 PM   #117
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I would not extend the flue unless you are a good machinist or have a good fabrication shop that can do it for you. It needs to be exactly like the original so it allows the flue out at the same rate and does not cause problems.
Tom maybe should not be a concern but the hot air coming out there and staying back there . But I think not having the fan moving the air is my biggest problem . Pat
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Old 06-30-2015, 08:06 PM   #118
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Yelp. Getting the fans moving will get the heat out of there. I do not suggest doing any mods to the propane or flue system. I probably should not have posted those pictures. Just adds more confusion.
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Old 06-30-2015, 08:17 PM   #119
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Yelp. Getting the fans moving will get the heat out of there. I do not suggest doing any mods to the propane or flue system. I probably should not have posted those pictures. Just adds more confusion.
Ok Tom no flue extension . Makes that easier for me . One ? Is there a limit to what air movement back there . Pat
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Old 06-30-2015, 08:21 PM   #120
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If you get your one factory fan controlled by a switch that should be enough. When mine is running I can actually feel air coming out of the top vent if I stand on a ladder. I have a second fan mounted up near the roof vent but have found I only need to run one.
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