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Old 06-26-2015, 07:07 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Charley I can't just put it back on frig and reinstall the 2 screws?It is on front won't it come out with frig ? Pat
I just put it inside the fridge on the shelf. Just be careful when you pull the fridge. It's a handful when it comes out to set on the bed.
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Old 06-26-2015, 07:09 PM   #72
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Pat

If there are any questions I can answer I will be happy to help too. Drop me a PM.

Having gone through this pain several times I hate it for you all but in the end it's worth it.

Keep track of the little plastic spacer on the bottom door hindge. I spent more time looking for it the first time then I did pulling the fridge.
Thanks Tom . Got the little washer and all screws put everything in tray Charlie made for me . Remembered that since I had already installed new door . Pat
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Old 06-26-2015, 07:36 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Pat

If there are any questions I can answer I will be happy to help too. Drop me a PM.

Having gone through this pain several times I hate it for you all but in the end it's worth it.

Keep track of the little plastic spacer on the bottom door hindge. I spent more time looking for it the first time then I did pulling the fridge.
The Oracle speaks!!! Listen to him. he got me through it.
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Old 06-26-2015, 07:54 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Ok had printed out Reaces removing frig before . Do have that . Pulled back bedding Removed my door , freezer . Have to also remove wires to my little fan I had installed in frig ( Kounrty Kamper ) I think will take some pics . Removed screws from frig . Removed bottom and 2 side wood moulding .
What do I need saw for I do have many ? I will put that frig panel back on with 2 screws . Pics coming . Pat
You'll likely have to cut some 1x1 stock, and the bottom horizontal piece that should be set at 45 degrees. Reace's install has a flat bottom. Mine angles up at 45 degrees, secured with the three screws that holds the frame of the outside, opening. The "bottom"of my flue is just the insulation. My baffle extends up to the front edge of the plywood panel. Because I used lightweight vinyl sheet (actually, a piece cut from gutter cap) it is only attached with heavy duty Velcro on the horizontal piece secured by the screws holding the frame for the outside opening frame.

Most importantly, once you cut your Luan plywood per Reace's instructions (and I used spay adhesive to attach my R15 fiberglass insulation [paperside to back of flue panel]) there was no way I could get it in place in one piece. So, I ripped in down the middle and installed the two pieces one at a time. The sides of the insulation compressed against each other well enough. I ran a length of duck tape down the middle for good measure. (Remember, this will never be seen by anyone unless you remove the fridge - which I can assure you, you will never want to do again! )

I never found a control panel that looks like the one in the S-t-T instructions on the back of the fridge. On top of the fridge, there is a junction for a few sets of wires, one of which was labeled "Electronics." I disconnected those two wires when I put in the new thermistor.
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Old 06-26-2015, 08:48 PM   #75
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Pat, we'll have to talk through the bottom baffle more once you pull the unit. First, we need to see if you have an ETI baffle now. It is a piece of plywood about 14 inches long and 4 inches wide. It serves as the bottom of the flue (shown in Reace's photos) and Tom found that if that piece is instead set at 45 degrees, the air travels more effectively over the refrigeration coils and up and out of the flue.

Might be a good idea to Google "chimney flues and how they work" to get a solid understanding of why this mod helps (it helped me). I concluded that the cavity in the trailer was too large and air just churned or barely moved before. Having a 1 inch wide flue forces (with the help of the fan(s)) the air to move more quickly and efficiently over the coils which is what makes the fridge work.

We also need to see if you have one, two, or no dometic fans attached to the back of your fridge. Tom had one, I had two. My mod bypassed the thermal switch altogether (meaning the fan only runs when I turn it on). If you are okay with that, the good news is that you already have power for it as shown in your photo at the switch you installed for your inside fan).
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Old 06-26-2015, 09:22 PM   #76
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Here is what Rich is talking about angling the lower baffle. The first time I did it the bottom baffle was flat and it just did not work. I ripped it all out and redid it installing the bottom one at 45 degrees and it worked much better. I did smoke test on both to watch the venting and could see the air flow was much better after redoing it. My upper baffle is just below the condenser. You can do it in a one piece baffle like Reace shows just angle the bottom. I was still experimenting at this point and if I every pull the fridge again I may close in the space between the two baffles but it works so hopefully I will never need to pull it again.
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Old 06-26-2015, 10:18 PM   #77
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Dometic RM8551 insufficent cooling

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Here is what Rich is talking about angling the lower baffle. The first time I did it the bottom baffle was flat and it just did not work. I ripped it all out and redid it installing the bottom one at 45 degrees and it worked much better. I did smoke test on both to watch the venting and could see the air flow was much better after redoing it. My upper baffle is just below the condenser. You can do it in a one piece baffle like Reace shows just angle the bottom. I was still experimenting at this point and if I every pull the fridge again I may close in the space between the two baffles but it works so hopefully I will never need to pull it again.
Ok this is it for today ! had to come in house to cool down . Tomorrow no working on tomorrow I have other business to attend to Granddaughter . Will get back to this Sunday . My part my be here Monday . Got it out ! I have one fan and this piece of metal wired to back . I want to turn that fan on myself. It has never come on . I want to keep separate from my inside . I can wire up another and put on closet wall too. . Isn't the chimney with hot air coming out right on those fins bad ? Don't I need to extend the chimney ? Anyway here comes the pictures Pat
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File Type: jpg IMG_0411.jpg (113.7 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0412.jpg (198.2 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0413.jpg (233.5 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0414.jpg (228.4 KB, 16 views)
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Old 06-26-2015, 10:21 PM   #78
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Dometic RM8551 insufficent cooling

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Here is what Rich is talking about angling the lower baffle. The first time I did it the bottom baffle was flat and it just did not work. I ripped it all out and redid it installing the bottom one at 45 degrees and it worked much better. I did smoke test on both to watch the venting and could see the air flow was much better after redoing it. My upper baffle is just below the condenser. You can do it in a one piece baffle like Reace shows just angle the bottom. I was still experimenting at this point and if I every pull the fridge again I may close in the space between the two baffles but it works so hopefully I will never need to pull it again.
More pictures Pat
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0415.jpg (168.2 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0417.jpg (165.8 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0418.jpg (240.0 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0420.jpg (202.8 KB, 21 views)
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Old 06-26-2015, 10:24 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by Zardoz View Post
P.S.

Pat, we'll have to talk through the bottom baffle more once you pull the unit. First, we need to see if you have an ETI baffle now. It is a piece of plywood about 14 inches long and 4 inches wide. It serves as the bottom of the flue (shown in Reace's photos) and Tom found that if that piece is instead set at 45 degrees, the air travels more effectively over the refrigeration coils and up and out of the flue.

Might be a good idea to Google "chimney flues and how they work" to get a solid understanding of why this mod helps (it helped me). I concluded that the cavity in the trailer was too large and air just churned or barely moved before. Having a 1 inch wide flue forces (with the help of the fan(s)) the air to move more quickly and efficiently over the coils which is what makes the fridge work.

We also need to see if you have one, two, or no dometic fans attached to the back of your fridge. Tom had one, I had two. My mod bypassed the thermal switch altogether (meaning the fan only runs when I turn it on). If you are okay with that, the good news is that you already have power for it as shown in your photo at the switch you installed for your inside fan).
what is the easiest to wire up but I want it's own switch . Pat
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Old 06-26-2015, 10:29 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Here is what Rich is talking about angling the lower baffle. The first time I did it the bottom baffle was flat and it just did not work. I ripped it all out and redid it installing the bottom one at 45 degrees and it worked much better. I did smoke test on both to watch the venting and could see the air flow was much better after redoing it. My upper baffle is just below the condenser. You can do it in a one piece baffle like Reace shows just angle the bottom. I was still experimenting at this point and if I every pull the fridge again I may close in the space between the two baffles but it works so hopefully I will never need to pull it again.
Can't I just remove and 45 the baffle there ? All the idea's for installation you have for the cavity . Also see that piece of metal wired on the fins ? The pipe should"t I move higher to go above frig ? Pat Ps was thinking of form board that is faced . I do have reflex it . Pat
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