Dometic RM8551 insuffucent cooling

[Tonny LR]

Robert,
I agreed with your assessment. I will contact ETI to find out more info.

Tonny

[Jubal]

Originally Posted by Tonny LR

Robert,
I agreed with your assessment. I will contact ETI to find out more info.

Tonny

Please let us know what ETI's response is.

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by Jubal

Please let us know what ETI's response is.

Bob,
I will keep everyong informed.

Tonny

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Zardoz

I sent them an email and told them the model number (RM8551) which they pointed out was on their list. NOTE: in their installation directions, they state that it is important to disconnect the circuit board wiring going to the stock thermistor before installing the new one. On my 4.3, the wiring to the electronics are on the top of the fridge (meaning of course it has to be removed to access them).

Starting on this project . Ordered my snip the tip today . Going in the trailer and start removing screws , making a place on bed frame to put frig . I do not have mattress anymore have latex foam . Taking off door , removing freezer . It is hot here so this is going to take me some time . Next week will pm you my phone number . Spoke to Rog at snip the tip and asks some ? You can just cut the power to your trailer with not being plugged in of course . The other reason they tell you to undo from control box -some people like to solder the ends that is putting electrical down the line . It is a safe guard for your control box . So it is up to me . I like to be extra cautious so I will follow all their directions . here goes ! Pat

[Zardoz]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Starting on this project . Ordered my snip the tip today . Going in the trailer and start removing screws , making a place on bed frame to put frig . I do not have mattress anymore have latex foam . Taking off door , removing freezer . It is hot here so this is going to take me some time . Next week will pm you my phone number . Spoke to Rog at snip the tip and asks some ? You can just cut the power to your trailer with not being plugged in of course . The other reason they tell you to undo from control box -some people like to solder the ends that is putting electrical down the line . It is a safe guard for your control box . So it is up to me . I like to be extra cautious so I will follow all their directions . here goes ! Pat

Sounds good, Pat. Follow Reace's instructions and photos and you'll be good. Getting it out is the hardest part. The only saw I used was a small table saw; trust you have access to one. Send any questions and photos that explain exactly what you're trying to accomplish and we can discuss as well.

Kountrykamper had detailed photos on the Forum on how to remove the door if you haven't done that already. If you haven't done that yet, my only suggestion at this point is that once the door is off, re secure the control panel with the two screws so you don't accidentally break any wires. Keep us all posted on your progress!

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Zardoz

Sounds good, Pat. Follow Reace's instructions and photos and you'll be good. Getting it out is the hardest part. The only saw I used was a small table saw; trust you have access to one. Send any questions and photos that explain exactly what you're trying to accomplish and we can discuss as well.

Kountrykamper had detailed photos on the Forum on how to remove the door if you haven't done that already. If you haven't done that yet, my only suggestion at this point is that once the door is off, re secure the control panel with the two screws so you don't accidentally break any wires. Keep us all posted on your progress!

Ok had printed out Reaces removing frig before . Do have that . Pulled back bedding Removed my door , freezer . Have to also remove wires to my little fan I had installed in frig ( Kounrty Kamper ) I think will take some pics . Removed screws from frig . Removed bottom and 2 side wood moulding .
What do I need saw for I do have many ? I will put that frig panel back on with 2 screws . Pics coming . Pat

[Patandlinda]

pics where I am going to put frig frig now, and I have to undo my fan Pat

[cpaharley2008]

you have to disconnect the upper control board...

[Kountrykamper]

Pat

If there are any questions I can answer I will be happy to help too. Drop me a PM.

Having gone through this pain several times I hate it for you all but in the end it's worth it.

Keep track of the little plastic spacer on the bottom door hindge. I spent more time looking for it the first time then I did pulling the fridge.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

you have to disconnect the upper control board...

Charley I can't just put it back on frig and reinstall the 2 screws?It is on front won't it come out with frig ? Pat

[Kountrykamper]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Charley I can't just put it back on frig and reinstall the 2 screws?It is on front won't it come out with frig ? Pat

I just put it inside the fridge on the shelf. Just be careful when you pull the fridge. It's a handful when it comes out to set on the bed.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

Pat

If there are any questions I can answer I will be happy to help too. Drop me a PM.

Having gone through this pain several times I hate it for you all but in the end it's worth it.

Keep track of the little plastic spacer on the bottom door hindge. I spent more time looking for it the first time then I did pulling the fridge.

Thanks Tom . Got the little washer and all screws put everything in tray Charlie made for me . Remembered that since I had already installed new door . Pat

[Zardoz]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

Pat

If there are any questions I can answer I will be happy to help too. Drop me a PM.

Having gone through this pain several times I hate it for you all but in the end it's worth it.

Keep track of the little plastic spacer on the bottom door hindge. I spent more time looking for it the first time then I did pulling the fridge.

The Oracle speaks!!! Listen to him. he got me through it.

[Zardoz]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Ok had printed out Reaces removing frig before . Do have that . Pulled back bedding Removed my door , freezer . Have to also remove wires to my little fan I had installed in frig ( Kounrty Kamper ) I think will take some pics . Removed screws from frig . Removed bottom and 2 side wood moulding .
What do I need saw for I do have many ? I will put that frig panel back on with 2 screws . Pics coming . Pat

You'll likely have to cut some 1x1 stock, and the bottom horizontal piece that should be set at 45 degrees. Reace's install has a flat bottom. Mine angles up at 45 degrees, secured with the three screws that holds the frame of the outside, opening. The "bottom"of my flue is just the insulation. My baffle extends up to the front edge of the plywood panel. Because I used lightweight vinyl sheet (actually, a piece cut from gutter cap) it is only attached with heavy duty Velcro on the horizontal piece secured by the screws holding the frame for the outside opening frame.

Most importantly, once you cut your Luan plywood per Reace's instructions (and I used spay adhesive to attach my R15 fiberglass insulation [paperside to back of flue panel]) there was no way I could get it in place in one piece. So, I ripped in down the middle and installed the two pieces one at a time. The sides of the insulation compressed against each other well enough. I ran a length of duck tape down the middle for good measure. (Remember, this will never be seen by anyone unless you remove the fridge - which I can assure you, you will never want to do again! )

I never found a control panel that looks like the one in the S-t-T instructions on the back of the fridge. On top of the fridge, there is a junction for a few sets of wires, one of which was labeled "Electronics." I disconnected those two wires when I put in the new thermistor.

[Zardoz]

P.S.

Pat, we'll have to talk through the bottom baffle more once you pull the unit. First, we need to see if you have an ETI baffle now. It is a piece of plywood about 14 inches long and 4 inches wide. It serves as the bottom of the flue (shown in Reace's photos) and Tom found that if that piece is instead set at 45 degrees, the air travels more effectively over the refrigeration coils and up and out of the flue.

Might be a good idea to Google "chimney flues and how they work" to get a solid understanding of why this mod helps (it helped me). I concluded that the cavity in the trailer was too large and air just churned or barely moved before. Having a 1 inch wide flue forces (with the help of the fan(s)) the air to move more quickly and efficiently over the coils which is what makes the fridge work.

We also need to see if you have one, two, or no dometic fans attached to the back of your fridge. Tom had one, I had two. My mod bypassed the thermal switch altogether (meaning the fan only runs when I turn it on). If you are okay with that, the good news is that you already have power for it as shown in your photo at the switch you installed for your inside fan).

[Kountrykamper]

Here is what Rich is talking about angling the lower baffle. The first time I did it the bottom baffle was flat and it just did not work. I ripped it all out and redid it installing the bottom one at 45 degrees and it worked much better. I did smoke test on both to watch the venting and could see the air flow was much better after redoing it. My upper baffle is just below the condenser. You can do it in a one piece baffle like Reace shows just angle the bottom. I was still experimenting at this point and if I every pull the fridge again I may close in the space between the two baffles but it works so hopefully I will never need to pull it again.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

Here is what Rich is talking about angling the lower baffle. The first time I did it the bottom baffle was flat and it just did not work. I ripped it all out and redid it installing the bottom one at 45 degrees and it worked much better. I did smoke test on both to watch the venting and could see the air flow was much better after redoing it. My upper baffle is just below the condenser. You can do it in a one piece baffle like Reace shows just angle the bottom. I was still experimenting at this point and if I every pull the fridge again I may close in the space between the two baffles but it works so hopefully I will never need to pull it again.

Ok this is it for today ! had to come in house to cool down . Tomorrow no working on tomorrow I have other business to attend to Granddaughter . Will get back to this Sunday . My part my be here Monday . Got it out ! I have one fan and this piece of metal wired to back . I want to turn that fan on myself. It has never come on . I want to keep separate from my inside . I can wire up another and put on closet wall too. . Isn't the chimney with hot air coming out right on those fins bad ? Don't I need to extend the chimney ? Anyway here comes the pictures Pat

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

Here is what Rich is talking about angling the lower baffle. The first time I did it the bottom baffle was flat and it just did not work. I ripped it all out and redid it installing the bottom one at 45 degrees and it worked much better. I did smoke test on both to watch the venting and could see the air flow was much better after redoing it. My upper baffle is just below the condenser. You can do it in a one piece baffle like Reace shows just angle the bottom. I was still experimenting at this point and if I every pull the fridge again I may close in the space between the two baffles but it works so hopefully I will never need to pull it again.

More pictures Pat

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Zardoz

P.S.

Pat, we'll have to talk through the bottom baffle more once you pull the unit. First, we need to see if you have an ETI baffle now. It is a piece of plywood about 14 inches long and 4 inches wide. It serves as the bottom of the flue (shown in Reace's photos) and Tom found that if that piece is instead set at 45 degrees, the air travels more effectively over the refrigeration coils and up and out of the flue.

Might be a good idea to Google "chimney flues and how they work" to get a solid understanding of why this mod helps (it helped me). I concluded that the cavity in the trailer was too large and air just churned or barely moved before. Having a 1 inch wide flue forces (with the help of the fan(s)) the air to move more quickly and efficiently over the coils which is what makes the fridge work.

We also need to see if you have one, two, or no dometic fans attached to the back of your fridge. Tom had one, I had two. My mod bypassed the thermal switch altogether (meaning the fan only runs when I turn it on). If you are okay with that, the good news is that you already have power for it as shown in your photo at the switch you installed for your inside fan).

what is the easiest to wire up but I want it's own switch . Pat

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

Here is what Rich is talking about angling the lower baffle. The first time I did it the bottom baffle was flat and it just did not work. I ripped it all out and redid it installing the bottom one at 45 degrees and it worked much better. I did smoke test on both to watch the venting and could see the air flow was much better after redoing it. My upper baffle is just below the condenser. You can do it in a one piece baffle like Reace shows just angle the bottom. I was still experimenting at this point and if I every pull the fridge again I may close in the space between the two baffles but it works so hopefully I will never need to pull it again.

Can't I just remove and 45 the baffle there ? All the idea's for installation you have for the cavity . Also see that piece of metal wired on the fins ? The pipe should"t I move higher to go above frig ? Pat Ps was thinking of form board that is faced . I do have reflex it . Pat