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Old 10-30-2015, 08:25 PM   #11
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What I had read way back on a UK site was that this refrigerator is supposed to work to 89.6 F or 32 C. So it is not supposed to work in the 90's.

My understanding of absorption refrigerators from the past is that they will not work past the low 80's or maybe 85F. So this one is a few degrees above that and above what we had in the previous models.
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Old 10-30-2015, 10:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamman View Post
My RMD8555 is inadequate above 90+ F. It is better than the RML8555. All the non-US Dometic info says both are SN rated. This is a problem in Phoenix and the southwest US.

I have previously
1) Added an additional fan in the rear
2) Installed a thermostat control for all 3 fans, bypassing the Dometic fan switch
3) Added insulation between the baffle and trailer exterior skin
4) Added 1.5" insulation to each side of the unit
5) Added 3" above the unit
6) Installed the upper rear baffle the authorized Dometic repair center ripped out

I also had problems on propane until I
7) Replaced the ETI-installed lower vent with a Dometic-recommended (outside the US) LS300. I have checked the door seals and do not have the same air leakage problem as Mark. I cannot explain why a larger vent has cured this problem. Dometic LS300 Polar White Complete Vent Assembly - Refrigerator Parts - Refrigerators - RV Appliances

I also
8) Added 1" insulation to the inside of the fridge and freezer doors.

I can now keep the fridge at or below 40 in temperatures up to about 92F running on 5 bars running on propane or 110V. If I try 4 bars I get 40-42.

In temperatures above 92 the fridge interior temperature rises. I have been toying with the idea of drilling a few 1" holes in the freezer floor to bolster fridge performance in hotter weather. I could seal them with silicone stoppers when I need the freezer. I have not gotten up the nerve yet - don't know where the control wires are.

I have had better luck NOT using my 2 D-cell fridge interior fan, which I can not explain.

I have not tried 12V - it draws less power than 110V or propane and should (in theory at least) have less cooling capacity.

Just got back from 3 days camping near Phoenix in 85F daytime temperatures (nights in the 50s) using the fridge normally!! Opening it briefly for meals, drinks, etc. is a real luxury.
Just wondering saw a post before stating the vent on our trailers is for Norcold not Dometic . Is that true ? Is this also the correct vent for 4.3,8551? I did almost everything you did to fix frig .except I do use a inside fan with all outside fans I can control and on my last trip got real good numbers on 4 down to 31 -42 , never 56 like before . The 42 was in high heat 90+. But interested if I have a incorrect vent . Pat
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Old 10-30-2015, 10:30 PM   #13
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Well, I have an update. However, before I get to the update I want to clarify a few things.

1) Our RMD8555 proved its' ability to cool (on electricity and propane) even in 95+ degree Fahrenheit temperatures with near 100% humidity. In fact after moving the thermistor, the fridge would maintain 26 to 33 degrees in those conditions while sitting in direct sunlight.

2) While traveling in northern climates (above Nebraska) the fridge and freezer temperatures would actually drop while running on battery. We have dual 6v batteries.

3) After talking with Reace, subsequent tests revealed a large amount of air intrusion into the fridge from the back side. In places it would almost blow the candle out that was being used to look for leaks. Nothing we tried would stop the airflow. At one point, we watched the temperature in the fridge rise from around 30 degrees to the upper 50s in short order just by turning the MaxxFan on in exhaust mode. You could feel the cold fridge air pouring out into the cabin.

I understand that fridge performance may not be that great in hot weather while traveling. I guess I can accept that. However, it is not acceptable for a fridge to not be able to maintain a safe temperature when simply turning the MaxxFan on in exhaust mode. That is a typical boondocking situation and one of our favorite modes of camping!

Now for the update. Dometic has suggested replacement! We are getting a new RMD8555!

Hopefully thing will be looking better soon.

Mark
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Old 10-30-2015, 10:36 PM   #14
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I'd hold out for the Dometic Diesel.
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Old 10-30-2015, 10:42 PM   #15
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Absorbtion fridges can be made to work in over 100F - and most of the older ones did. The older RV Dometic fridges all worked at least well into the 90s or higher. (Including the pre-RMx8xxx models in Escapes.) The Australian discussion boards really lit up when the RMx8xxx fridges came out because they were the first ones to work poorly in Australia

See "Climate Class"
Making caravan fridges work as claimed
Forum | Caravan & Motorhome | RV Tips, Travel, Camping, Swap, Social Chat. - View topic - How does Dometic make the ‘T’ Rating
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Old 10-30-2015, 11:22 PM   #16
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We do most of our camping in warm weather (high 90+)- we have not had any problem keeping things cold in our refrigerator in our Nash. We make the Popsicles. The refrigerator runs on propane except when we use our generator to charge the batteries(every other day) I was hoping solar would eliminate the need for the generator, does not sound like it! Hope this refrigerator issue is figured out!
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Old 10-30-2015, 11:51 PM   #17
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Thats great news Mark.



.
.
.
.

Looking forward to trying some fixes/improvements that Doug and others have mentioned. Like extending the thermistor wire so it hangs farther down and getting some furnace filter to plug up the outside vent.

Doug, was there room to slide the side insulation in without removing the fridge? Also wondering out loud if getting some insulation on the "feet" of the fridge might help.
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Old 10-30-2015, 11:55 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drumstick63 View Post

Now for the update. Dometic has suggested replacement! We are getting a new RMD8555!

Hopefully thing will be looking better soon.

Mark
Good deal!
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Old 10-31-2015, 07:54 AM   #19
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Thats great news Mark.

Looking forward to trying some fixes/improvements that Doug and others have mentioned. Like extending the thermistor wire so it hangs farther down and getting some furnace filter to plug up the outside vent.

Doug, was there room to slide the side insulation in without removing the fridge? Also wondering out loud if getting some insulation on the "feet" of the fridge might help.
I moved the thermistor and got poorer performance, which I do not understand. So I am running the fridge with the thermistor in the factory position.

The baffle cover had to come off so no way to insulate the baffle without pulling the fridge.

At this point I figure it is about as good as it will get. The only 3 additional items I can think of (short of switching fridges or getting a rebuilt cooling sytem a la Klem I think it was) are 1) adding interior insulation to the back wall below the fins, 2) researching/improving the heat transfer goop between the interior fins and the cooling system, and 3) installing a fridge guard (Refrigerator guard).
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Old 10-31-2015, 08:09 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Wray View Post
Wow Mark, if I were at the point you're at, I'd probably be going off like Mt. St. Helens. I feel so lucky to have the dependable, old-fashioned, non-high-tech 2510 in my '09 19. I sometimes wonder why no owner suffering from fridge frustration hasn't hunted up an older model fridge and just replaced the 8555. I'd also be tempted to start looking for ways to make direct contact (repeatedly!) with anyone who night be able to help at Dometic. Good luck with your problem.

Bruce
We too never had an issue with the 5cf fridge in our 2009 19 being able to cool enough, even it hot climates. It was very rare that we could leave it set at 5 bars, other than during the high heat of the day where we would bump it for a few hours.

Not really understanding why Dometic doesn't put the effort in to make these new fridges work better, you would think it would be more profitable for them, as opposed to all the warrant work they have to do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Floating Cloud View Post
The complaints about propane not working while driving seem to apply to most models.
Are you referring to all models of fridges, or all models of trailers with the new fridge? Because other than the issue of these newer fridges, almost every last person I know runs their various trailers and mohos with the fridge on propane while driving, and it always seems to work fine. Well, other than one buddy with a $130k motorhome that has this same problematic fridge, that since being replaced by Dometic, seems to work fine.
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