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Old 06-04-2018, 06:51 AM   #1
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Drill for stabilizer legs

Okay so I'm getting the power hitch and now we have the power awning. Save the old back. Now I want to bring down the stabilizer legs using a cordless drill. we haven't got the drill and are wondering if you have to have a certain torque or power so that the drill is capable of screwing down those legs. We are buying the drill as we don't have a cordless drill at this time so don't want to buy something that won't get the job done. Also don't want to buy something more expensive than needed. Any thoughts?
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Old 06-04-2018, 07:28 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renglish6 View Post
Okay so I'm getting the power hitch and now we have the power awning. Save the old back. Now I want to bring down the stabilizer legs using a cordless drill. we haven't got the drill and are wondering if you have to have a certain torque or power so that the drill is capable of screwing down those legs. We are buying the drill as we don't have a cordless drill at this time so don't want to buy something that won't get the job done. Also don't want to buy something more expensive than needed. Any thoughts?
Hi: renglish6... I know the drill, but I can never find it. The old crank is always there. Alf
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Old 06-04-2018, 11:04 AM   #3
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Pretty much any cordless drill you buy should be fine.

While I have several I don't use them for that purpose although lots of folks do.

Even when I've used one I still do the last part manually so that I can "feel" how much force the stabilizer is exerting.

Like power anything one precaution is to keep the lead screw clean if you do a lot of dusty or muddy roads. With a power drill you start to loose some feed back that the lead screw is gritty and needs cleaning.

Ron
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Old 06-04-2018, 11:08 AM   #4
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Unhappy Hand crank solution

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Originally Posted by renglish6 View Post
Okay so I'm getting the power hitch and now we have the power awning. Save the old back. Now I want to bring down the stabilizer legs using a cordless drill. we haven't got the drill and are wondering if you have to have a certain torque or power so that the drill is capable of screwing down those legs. We are buying the drill as we don't have a cordless drill at this time so don't want to buy something that won't get the job done. Also don't want to buy something more expensive than needed. Any thoughts?

Robert,
Here's the long story about our current solution:

We started by using my 18V (Riobi) impact driver, but it makes way too much noise, especially if you're setting up after dark or leaving in the early morning. So then, we started using the 18V drill with an adapter in the chuck for 3/8" drive sockets. The stabilizer takes a 3/4" 6 or 12 point socket. This works fine, except:

occasionally, I've tightened the stabilizer so much that the drill doesn't have the initial power to start turning the shaft, so I grab the chuck and manually assist. My wife now goes camping with a friend of hers (without me), and found that she couldn't always do the same, so she had to dig the hand crank out of it's hiding place under the dinette.
Bottom line: we found that using the hand crank is very easy for either one of us, always. Whether we're hand cranking or using power, we end up kneeling. It's not a problem for my poor back. So, we don't use power anymore for the stabilizer cranking operation. I used a couple of hooks (actually they're one screw conduit clamps) mounted vertically on the back wall of the tongue storage box to hang the hand crank; it's very handy, but out of the way.
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Old 06-04-2018, 11:14 AM   #5
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Drills

I don’t usually use a drill to put the stabilizers down but when I do I use Dos Equis oops, wrong commercial. Seriously I do observe this happening and if I had to estimate I’d say about 75% of the drills I see are 18 Volt Dewalt Drills. I think the basic unit is around $100 and there will be many sales with Father’s Day coming up. Personally I am a Milwaukee guy but never knock another man’s equipment, or woman’s either. Just my $.02. YMMV
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Old 06-04-2018, 11:15 AM   #6
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https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.1...000811551.html

This is what I use and has plenty of power keeping in mind that your not lifting the trailer in the air...your just stabilizing. Comes with both drill and an impact driver. This gives you two batteries. I am not sure about in the US but here if you register a Ridged product you get lifetime battery replacement! What lifetime means is up for debate but I have replaced both batteries in the last 8 years of ownership. Otherwise most drill would be garbage or you would have had to buy replacement batteries. They are small and easy to use. If you don’t like the noise of the impact driver...try the drill...as I said you get both!
On sale here in Canada for under $100
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Old 06-04-2018, 11:36 AM   #7
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If money is no object, you can install electric stabilizers. Push button and quiet. But that would run you about $700 for both. I've never liked the idea however even if they were cheaper. The feet can't be adjusted independently.

If you're looking for a quieter drill, I like this Porter Cable. Way quieter than my other drills - not even close. Note also that some of the noise produced when raising or lowering the stabilizers is coming from the stabilizers themselves. Make sure to lube their screws for more quiet operation.
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Old 06-04-2018, 12:01 PM   #8
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I use a Ryobi 18V drill (I already owned the battery and charger). It really isn't a whole lot easier, though, but since I keep the drill handy it isn't any less convenient.
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Old 06-04-2018, 01:24 PM   #9
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Use an old candle or a small block of paraffin to lube the stabilizer screw threads. Wax will not attract road grit as grease or oil will. Rub wax on threads and extend / retract stabilizers a couple times and you are good to go.

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Old 06-04-2018, 02:50 PM   #10
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Use an old candle or a small block of paraffin to lube the stabilizer screw threads. Wax will not attract road grit as grease or oil will. Rub wax on threads and extend / retract stabilizers a couple times and you are good to go.

Tom
Wax works, but I just hit them with some dry spray lube. Won't attract dirt and it's durable.
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Old 06-04-2018, 03:20 PM   #11
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I have tried using a drill but found it to be more of a bother than a help. Attaching the crank or the drill with socket takes the same time. 10 seconds tops is saved with the drill. Takes longer to get the drill out and pack it away for the most part. Plus the noise thing others mentioned.

Signed,
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Old 06-04-2018, 03:59 PM   #12
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I'm going to invest in a speed wrench as an alternative.
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Old 06-04-2018, 04:01 PM   #13
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I'm going to invest in a speed wrench as an alternative.
What i was calling the hand crank actually is a speed wrench. It comes with the trailer.
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Old 06-04-2018, 04:16 PM   #14
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how about a more comfortable one, one that does not dig into your palm when using, perhaps with a spinning button end.
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Old 06-04-2018, 04:18 PM   #15
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I use Motorcycle Chain Lube (such as PJ1) spray on lead screws... it sprays on as a foaming penetrating liquid, quickly run the crank back and forth end to end, then let it dry, and it becomes a sort of waxy grease that dirt won't stick to and stays put.
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Old 06-04-2018, 04:20 PM   #16
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how about a more comfortable one, one that does not dig into your palm when using, perhaps with a spinning button end.
I have one like that, but I doubt it would work better. I don't find the supplied one uncomfortable. Lisa uses it to and never complains (which is a good thing )
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Old 06-04-2018, 04:58 PM   #17
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Armstrong

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how about a more comfortable one, one that does not dig into your palm when using, perhaps with a spinning button end.
Here’s an armaloy Armstrong from a few years back. I got it from Rita’s uncle when he went in the care center. It’s an S-15 both the offset grip and the top spin. I have the breaker bar, t handle and some sockets as well. Check the pawn shops before going offshore for a new one.
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Old 06-04-2018, 05:06 PM   #18
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I have no problem using the included crank, used one for a good number of years. I have however changed to a small drill/driver just because I have it with me. I have no issue with noise as long as I'm a little careful not to let the clutch slip, I just use it turning slowly. I do find there is better control with the hand crank. Something like 1/2 a turn with the crank after contact, can't do that with the drill.

Been using a small 10.8v Makita but it just dies so I'll be looking for another small one, maybe a 12v as the 10.8 is obsolete. I've got some 18v tools for the house but they are bigger then I need just to put down the stabilizers.
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Old 06-04-2018, 07:17 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
how about a more comfortable one, one that does not dig into your palm when using, perhaps with a spinning button end.

I didn't know I had a problem until this thread.
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Old 06-04-2018, 08:02 PM   #20
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I like the drill, 20 volt, for ease of use. I also like it because I have found a number of instances where it was handy to have a drill. Like the time the refrigerator shelf broke and I had to fabricate a brace to make it function, or the need to put a pilot hole into some wood to reinforce a drawer that failed. I even carry an assortment of drill bits and find I use them a fair amount.

My drill also has an air pump accessory, useful for putting some air in to the rear air bags on the tow or topping off the tires to the 50 psi I use. Black and Decker Matrix. Not the quality of what Iowa Dave uses but very versatile.
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