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06-04-2018, 06:51 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Carolina Beach, North Carolina
Trailer: New Escape 19 on order
Posts: 14
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Drill for stabilizer legs
Okay so I'm getting the power hitch and now we have the power awning. Save the old back. Now I want to bring down the stabilizer legs using a cordless drill. we haven't got the drill and are wondering if you have to have a certain torque or power so that the drill is capable of screwing down those legs. We are buying the drill as we don't have a cordless drill at this time so don't want to buy something that won't get the job done. Also don't want to buy something more expensive than needed. Any thoughts?
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06-04-2018, 07:28 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: St. Thomas not BVI., Ontario
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0TA / 2016 Ram Eco Diesel 4X4
Posts: 8,035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renglish6
Okay so I'm getting the power hitch and now we have the power awning. Save the old back. Now I want to bring down the stabilizer legs using a cordless drill. we haven't got the drill and are wondering if you have to have a certain torque or power so that the drill is capable of screwing down those legs. We are buying the drill as we don't have a cordless drill at this time so don't want to buy something that won't get the job done. Also don't want to buy something more expensive than needed. Any thoughts?
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Hi: renglish6... I know the drill, but I can never find it. The old crank is always there. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
__________________
Quote Bugs Bunny..."Don't take life too seriously, none of us get out of it ALIVE"!!!
'16 Ram Eco D. 4X4 Laramie Longhorn CC & '14 Escape 5.0TA
St.Thomas (Not the Virgin Islands) Ontario
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06-04-2018, 11:04 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,744
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Pretty much any cordless drill you buy should be fine.
While I have several I don't use them for that purpose although lots of folks do.
Even when I've used one I still do the last part manually so that I can "feel" how much force the stabilizer is exerting.
Like power anything one precaution is to keep the lead screw clean if you do a lot of dusty or muddy roads. With a power drill you start to loose some feed back that the lead screw is gritty and needs cleaning.
Ron
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06-04-2018, 11:08 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2015 Escape 17A
Posts: 2,344
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Hand crank solution
Quote:
Originally Posted by renglish6
Okay so I'm getting the power hitch and now we have the power awning. Save the old back. Now I want to bring down the stabilizer legs using a cordless drill. we haven't got the drill and are wondering if you have to have a certain torque or power so that the drill is capable of screwing down those legs. We are buying the drill as we don't have a cordless drill at this time so don't want to buy something that won't get the job done. Also don't want to buy something more expensive than needed. Any thoughts?
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Robert,
Here's the long story about our current solution:
We started by using my 18V (Riobi) impact driver, but it makes way too much noise, especially if you're setting up after dark or leaving in the early morning. So then, we started using the 18V drill with an adapter in the chuck for 3/8" drive sockets. The stabilizer takes a 3/4" 6 or 12 point socket. This works fine, except:
occasionally, I've tightened the stabilizer so much that the drill doesn't have the initial power to start turning the shaft, so I grab the chuck and manually assist. My wife now goes camping with a friend of hers (without me), and found that she couldn't always do the same, so she had to dig the hand crank out of it's hiding place under the dinette.
Bottom line: we found that using the hand crank is very easy for either one of us, always. Whether we're hand cranking or using power, we end up kneeling. It's not a problem for my poor back. So, we don't use power anymore for the stabilizer cranking operation. I used a couple of hooks (actually they're one screw conduit clamps) mounted vertically on the back wall of the tongue storage box to hang the hand crank; it's very handy, but out of the way.
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06-04-2018, 11:14 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,235
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Drills
I don’t usually use a drill to put the stabilizers down but when I do I use Dos Equis oops, wrong commercial. Seriously I do observe this happening and if I had to estimate I’d say about 75% of the drills I see are 18 Volt Dewalt Drills. I think the basic unit is around $100 and there will be many sales with Father’s Day coming up. Personally I am a Milwaukee guy but never knock another man’s equipment, or woman’s either. Just my $.02. YMMV
Iowa Dave
__________________
Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
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06-04-2018, 11:15 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kelowna, British Columbia
Trailer: 2018 Escape 19
Posts: 2,716
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https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.1...000811551.html
This is what I use and has plenty of power keeping in mind that your not lifting the trailer in the air...your just stabilizing. Comes with both drill and an impact driver. This gives you two batteries. I am not sure about in the US but here if you register a Ridged product you get lifetime battery replacement! What lifetime means is up for debate but I have replaced both batteries in the last 8 years of ownership. Otherwise most drill would be garbage or you would have had to buy replacement batteries. They are small and easy to use. If you don’t like the noise of the impact driver...try the drill...as I said you get both!
On sale here in Canada for under $100
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06-04-2018, 11:36 AM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
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If money is no object, you can install electric stabilizers. Push button and quiet. But that would run you about $700 for both. I've never liked the idea however even if they were cheaper. The feet can't be adjusted independently.
If you're looking for a quieter drill, I like this Porter Cable. Way quieter than my other drills - not even close. Note also that some of the noise produced when raising or lowering the stabilizers is coming from the stabilizers themselves. Make sure to lube their screws for more quiet operation.
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
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06-04-2018, 12:01 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Trailer: 2020 Escape 17B "Voyager"
Posts: 2,661
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I use a Ryobi 18V drill (I already owned the battery and charger). It really isn't a whole lot easier, though, but since I keep the drill handy it isn't any less convenient.
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06-04-2018, 01:24 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Juneau, Alaska
Trailer: 2015 17A - Ready for more Maiden Voyages ....
Posts: 881
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Use an old candle or a small block of paraffin to lube the stabilizer screw threads. Wax will not attract road grit as grease or oil will. Rub wax on threads and extend / retract stabilizers a couple times and you are good to go.
Tom
__________________
Consciousness: That confusing time between naps
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06-04-2018, 02:50 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarvingHyena
Use an old candle or a small block of paraffin to lube the stabilizer screw threads. Wax will not attract road grit as grease or oil will. Rub wax on threads and extend / retract stabilizers a couple times and you are good to go.
Tom
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Wax works, but I just hit them with some dry spray lube. Won't attract dirt and it's durable.
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
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06-04-2018, 03:20 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,532
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I have tried using a drill but found it to be more of a bother than a help. Attaching the crank or the drill with socket takes the same time. 10 seconds tops is saved with the drill. Takes longer to get the drill out and pack it away for the most part. Plus the noise thing others mentioned.
Signed,
A Happy Cranker
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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06-04-2018, 03:59 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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I'm going to invest in a speed wrench as an alternative.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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06-04-2018, 04:01 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
I'm going to invest in a speed wrench as an alternative.
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What i was calling the hand crank actually is a speed wrench. It comes with the trailer.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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06-04-2018, 04:16 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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how about a more comfortable one, one that does not dig into your palm when using, perhaps with a spinning button end.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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06-04-2018, 04:18 PM
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#15
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Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 5,122
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I use Motorcycle Chain Lube (such as PJ1) spray on lead screws... it sprays on as a foaming penetrating liquid, quickly run the crank back and forth end to end, then let it dry, and it becomes a sort of waxy grease that dirt won't stick to and stays put.
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06-04-2018, 04:20 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
how about a more comfortable one, one that does not dig into your palm when using, perhaps with a spinning button end.
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I have one like that, but I doubt it would work better. I don't find the supplied one uncomfortable. Lisa uses it to and never complains (which is a good thing )
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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06-04-2018, 04:58 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,235
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Armstrong
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
how about a more comfortable one, one that does not dig into your palm when using, perhaps with a spinning button end.
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Here’s an armaloy Armstrong from a few years back. I got it from Rita’s uncle when he went in the care center. It’s an S-15 both the offset grip and the top spin. I have the breaker bar, t handle and some sockets as well. Check the pawn shops before going offshore for a new one.
Iowa Dave
__________________
Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
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06-04-2018, 05:06 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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I have no problem using the included crank, used one for a good number of years. I have however changed to a small drill/driver just because I have it with me. I have no issue with noise as long as I'm a little careful not to let the clutch slip, I just use it turning slowly. I do find there is better control with the hand crank. Something like 1/2 a turn with the crank after contact, can't do that with the drill.
Been using a small 10.8v Makita but it just dies so I'll be looking for another small one, maybe a 12v as the 10.8 is obsolete. I've got some 18v tools for the house but they are bigger then I need just to put down the stabilizers.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
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06-04-2018, 07:17 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
Posts: 17,136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
how about a more comfortable one, one that does not dig into your palm when using, perhaps with a spinning button end.
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I didn't know I had a problem until this thread.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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06-04-2018, 08:02 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Janesville, WI, Wisconsin
Trailer: Escape 19 (sold) Escape 21 2014
Posts: 1,879
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I like the drill, 20 volt, for ease of use. I also like it because I have found a number of instances where it was handy to have a drill. Like the time the refrigerator shelf broke and I had to fabricate a brace to make it function, or the need to put a pilot hole into some wood to reinforce a drawer that failed. I even carry an assortment of drill bits and find I use them a fair amount.
My drill also has an air pump accessory, useful for putting some air in to the rear air bags on the tow or topping off the tires to the 50 psi I use. Black and Decker Matrix. Not the quality of what Iowa Dave uses but very versatile.
__________________
Paul and Janet Braun
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 now 2012 Toyota Sequoia V8
Escape 19' 2010 now 2014 Escape 21'
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